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Already looked and tried the Impala spindles. The pin for the hub is for the smaller 63-68 hubs and you have to run a big brake kit. Early steering arms are the only ones that clear the lower a-arm as well. Late steering arms would have to be ground down.
The drawing for the spindles are just about done and we have to finish the steering arms. To get to where we wanted to be we ended up using C5/6 hubs. Once all the drawings are done, we will fabricate a few pair and do our final measurements and testing which will most likely be at Sebring and in Cali.
We are drawing something up to raise the inner TR ends.
So the question-
What if I already have your Coilovers /tubular Arms and 14" big brakes?
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Van Steel
...We are drawing something up to raise the inner TR ends.
IMCO it would be a good idea if that were done so as to be available a la carte rather than only as part of a complete proprietary system. (Not a fan of add-on plates, FWIW.) And, don't forget us manual steering guys if you re-do the steering arms. My $.02.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Jan 5, 2015 at 10:52 PM.
Reason: terminology
Already looked and tried the Impala spindles. The pin for the hub is for the smaller 63-68 hubs and you have to run a big brake kit. Early steering arms are the only ones that clear the lower a-arm as well. Late steering arms would have to be ground down.
The drawing for the spindles are just about done and we have to finish the steering arms. To get to where we wanted to be we ended up using C5/6 hubs. Once all the drawings are done, we will fabricate a few pair and do our final measurements and testing which will most likely be at Sebring and in Cali.
We are drawing something up to raise the inner TR ends.
I have your front suspension set up with the tubular a arms and coilovers, will I be able to use your new spindles and steering arms, thanks.
The main objective to the spindle besides the drop is to be able to use factory style brakes so you don't have to upgrade the brakes like other kits. With that said, an additional caliper mounting bracket will be needed do big brakes and possibly the rotor hats will need to be changed.
These will bolt up to factory ball joints. Our coilovers use factory ball joints. I like to keep as much stuff Corvette as I can. If you have a bad ball joint 10 years down the road, you can pick up a Corvette ball joint any where and not have to remember if it came off a Camaro/Chevelle/Cadillac etc. Helps the next guy out too.
TheSkunkWorks
Steering arm will be a 2 hole, possibly 3 hole arm. We are taking a hard look at how we can change Ackerman.
The main objective to the spindle besides the drop is to be able to use factory style brakes so you don't have to upgrade the brakes like other kits. With that said, an additional caliper mounting bracket will be needed do big brakes and possibly the rotor hats will need to be changed.
These will bolt up to factory ball joints. Our coilovers use factory ball joints. I like to keep as much stuff Corvette as I can. If you have a bad ball joint 10 years down the road, you can pick up a Corvette ball joint any where and not have to remember if it came off a Camaro/Chevelle/Cadillac etc. Helps the next guy out too.
OK...new hats...C5/C6 hubs...New brackets....What about the steering? (running manual as well) Have to switch to earlier arms or grind down the later ones -or will your tubulars give me any extra needed clearance.
Now I know why this was not done years ago- It aint so easy!!!
The rear- "How about a rear X-member that raises the diff instead?" This would be a no brainer!!!
New steering arms are in the process as well so you won't have to worry about finding another part or grinding on what you have.
We may have 2 different solutions for the rear x-member. 1 is just run a delrin bushing in a factory x-member that will raise the diff. 2nd is a new x-member all together and again we will use delrin as a bushing of choice. I don't really want to lighten up the rear x-member b/c we think these cars need more rear weight.
New steering arms are in the process as well so you won't have to worry about finding another part or grinding on what you have.
We may have 2 different solutions for the rear x-member. 1 is just run a delrin bushing in a factory x-member that will raise the diff. 2nd is a new x-member all together and again we will use delrin as a bushing of choice. I don't really want to lighten up the rear x-member b/c we think these cars need more rear weight.
So, if I use your dropped spindles, I will be able to use stock calipers (or in my case Wilwood D8-6 calipers) with them? What rotors would I use?
I am actually having a set of solid aluminum diff mount bushings being machined this week, but I would also consider delrin bushings.....but either of those only mount the diff more rigidly. I also want to "raise" the diff to help correct suspension geometry on my lowered car. As I already mentioned in this thread, a set of dropped rear shock mounts would help add back shock travel to lowered cars.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by 7t2vette
...I am actually having a set of solid aluminum diff mount bushings being machined this week, but I would also consider delrin bushings.....but either of those only mount the diff more rigidly. I also want to "raise" the diff to help correct suspension geometry on my lowered car...
FWIW, raising the diff doesn't require a different x-member.
FWIW, raising the diff doesn't require a different x-member.
I am aware of that; I plan to section the factory crossmember to lower it over the diff. I was pointing out to Van Steel that bushings don't accomplish this. I plan to both mount the crossmember rigidly, and "raise" the diff.
I am aware of that; I plan to section the factory crossmember to lower it over the diff. I was pointing out to Van Steel that bushings don't accomplish this. I plan to both mount the crossmember rigidly, and "raise" the diff.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I've gone a different direction, having acquired a batwing for mounting up my 12-bolt hog head, and for which I'll simply locate the frame tabs as required for height. I figure that I've got plenty of other weight reductions in the works up front that will more than offset the weight being saved here.
New steering arms are in the process as well so you won't have to worry about finding another part or grinding on what you have.
We may have 2 different solutions for the rear x-member. 1 is just run a delrin bushing in a factory x-member that will raise the diff. 2nd is a new x-member all together and again we will use delrin as a bushing of choice. I don't really want to lighten up the rear x-member b/c we think these cars need more rear weight.
when will these spindles and steering arms be ready to purchase.
I don't have an exact date as to when the spindles & arms will be available. As I mentioned, we need to test them 1st. I'm not going to market with a part that has not been tested.
As I previously mentioned, "The main objective to the spindle besides the drop is to be able to use factory style brakes so you don't have to upgrade the brakes like other kits. With that said, an additional caliper mounting bracket will be needed do big brakes and possibly the rotor hats will need to be changed." OE D8s & WWE D8's bolt up to factory caliper brackets & rotors. We are trying hard to make it work w/all factory parts.
Sorry, I should have been more specific. The cross member can be raised up about 3/4" without modifying it, but the rubber bushings have to be removed and the metal flange on the frame has to be hammered flat. Something like this:
I want to "raise" my diff closer to 1.5", so bushings alone won't do that.
Jigs are just about done at the machine shop. I'll have some spindles built here shortly and we'll go to testing. Pics will follow when they are in hand and fitted to our R&D frame.
DSCN3920_zps92fb8c93 by richardhayes454, on Flickr
This would be a no brainer!!! 
