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When we first bought this car, the headlight switch was completely bypassed and I was told that the switch under the steering column was how you put them up and then used the headlight switch to turn them on. I'm trying to right the wrong so I rerouted the hoses correctly but after getting the new engine in I found out the headlight switch would not lift the lights up only turn them on. So we ran the car mostly during the day for the first week, occasionally using the headlights a couple times. Those couple times, we just used the bypass to lift them, and the switch to turn them on.
Then as time went on one night we suddenly lost the headlights, not the light but they suddenly went down. If I pushed the switch in, they would come back up, pulled the switch back out, they would drop, not immediately but shortly after. At that time I could hear a vacuum leak sound at the switch when it was pulled on, the sound would stop when it was off.
So I bought a new switch, changed it out and still have the same issues. The only way to get the lights to open is the bypass, as soon as the light switch is pulled they close immediately. I've checked and rechecked the hoses and they all seem to be connected properly. Any help would be appreciated.
I've checked and rechecked the hoses and they all seem to be connected properly. Any help would be appreciated.
You have to be 100% positive...not "seem to be".
All I can write is that IF the hoses are correct...the system should work. I do it numerous times in a year. The two hoses that connect to your headlight switch need to be installed correctly.
I also verify that the vacuum switch that is made onto the headlight switch is working before I put it in. I ASSUME NOTHING.
This is also assuming that the actuator relays are good and the aluminum check valve off the intake vacuum is in good condition...so vacuum can be stored as designed.
Dub I say seem because it's still not working correctly. According to diagrams the hoses are connected correctly. I guess I'll have to start testing each piece separately , I did find a good article on trouble shooting, i guess it's not as easy as I hoped it would be. Now I know why they bypassed the light switch.
I have learned that in order to make lights go up you block vacuum to the control valves. According to the paper I received with my new hoses the vacuum supply goes to the back port of the headlight then from front port to the override switch. It does not take much of a leak to give you fits. I also bought a vacuum pump to test the actuators. Hope this helps.
When we first bought this car, the headlight switch was completely bypassed and I was told that the switch under the steering column was how you put them up and then used the headlight switch to turn them on. I'm trying to right the wrong so I rerouted the hoses correctly but after getting the new engine in I found out the headlight switch would not lift the lights up only turn them on. So we ran the car mostly during the day for the first week, occasionally using the headlights a couple times. Those couple times, we just used the bypass to lift them, and the switch to turn them on.
Then as time went on one night we suddenly lost the headlights, not the light but they suddenly went down. If I pushed the switch in, they would come back up, pulled the switch back out, they would drop, not immediately but shortly after. At that time I could hear a vacuum leak sound at the switch when it was pulled on, the sound would stop when it was off.
So I bought a new switch, changed it out and still have the same issues. The only way to get the lights to open is the bypass, as soon as the light switch is pulled they close immediately. I've checked and rechecked the hoses and they all seem to be connected properly. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like your bypass and switch hoses are reversed?
When I had my dash out recently the lights worked find before I pulled everything apart in my '77. When I put it all back together I had the same symptoms you are describing and it was due to having the vacuum hoses switched on the headlight switch. If that is not it I believe it is the vacuum portion of the headlight switch is defective.
Your vacuum hoses are not correct. That is what I am betting on.
When you pull DOWN on the override switch...the door open...push it back UP and they close.
IF you removed your headlight switch (for example) and joined the 2 hoses together....you would only be able to use your OVERRIDE switch to raise and lower for headlights.
The ONE thing that you have to remember.... and it is simple.... is that the SMALL hoses that goes to your headlight actuator relays is the CONTROL for raising and lowering your doors. The control of the vacuum is done by the headlight switch or override switch.
When VACUUM is added and taken away on this small hose...it moves a plunger in the relay...which directs the vacuum to the corresponding hose that goes to your actuator pods.
SO...I am betting that you have a vacuum hose routing problem..or a bad headlight vacuum switch.
Check EVERY hose...and ESPECIALLY those at the headlights.
I tested the headlight switch last night, because I had just purchased it. It tested fine, The bypass switch tested fine. I tested the check valve and it won't hold vacuum steady, so I will order a new one, but I agree I think something is crossed somewhere. According to what I've read, if the check valve is bad headlights stay up, and ours don't. The check valve is just ever so slightly leaking, it will get replaced but my gut tells me that isn't the monster I'm chasing right now.thanks for all the help so far, it's helping me understand our corvette a little better.
I reassembled the inside hoses this morning as I wanted to drive it to work, I left the bypass switch pushed up, started the car and the lights opened. pulled the light switch and they closed so no progress yet ( sigh ) I have the white striped hose connected to the white port on the bypass switch, that is connected to the relays. the line from the small port on the check valve is connected to port two on the headlight switch, and the blue port on the bypass is connected to port three. this is all according to a diagram I printed from the Willcox website. Will an iffy check valve be causing this?
Your headlights are reacting exactly opposite of how they should be. The only component that switches vacuum between the up and down cycle is the headlight relays. If the actuating hoses are reversed, the up and down cycle is reversed also. Double check the hose connections at the relays. Do not pay any attention to the hose color. Simply make sure the bottom hose on the relay is connected to the front of the actuator, and the top hose is connected to the rear of the actuator.