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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 07:08 PM
  #21  
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I'm will some of you here. The cooling system on your car is something that you should never ever cheap out on when it comes to the radiator. My Vette came with a brand new copper/ brass no name radiator that is so cheaply made you can damage it from wiggling the radiator hoses to much. I have said it before. When my time comes its going to be a DeWitts.
This other radiator will be used on an engine test stand that I am building.
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 07:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by persuader
I'm will some of you here. The cooling system on your car is something that you should never ever cheap out on when it comes to the radiator. My Vette came with a brand new copper/ brass no name radiator that is so cheaply made you can damage it from wiggling the radiator hoses to much. I have said it before. When my time comes its going to be a DeWitts.
This other radiator will be used on an engine test stand that I am building.

The other thing is even before I bought from Tom I gave that man hell, still he was kind to me and had long phone talks...to me that is priceless customer service....
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pauls71stingray
Can someone please enlighten me on the difference and stear me in the right direction please?
Thanks
Paul,

C3 radiator discussions can get confusing because there were (6) six radiators during the 15 year run.

68 BB and SB with AC or Auto 22.5" Copper/Brass

68-72 Aluminum used with base car small block engines (no AC, no auto) Uses surge tank

69-72 SB 26.5" C/B used with AC, or Auto, or LT1 & L46

69-72 BB 27.5" C/B (no filler neck, uses surge tank)

73-76 All 27.5 C/B with filler neck

77-82 26.25" C/B with filler neck (that's the one in the photos above)

Your radiator was #2 on the list and it is very important to stay with some form of aluminum radiator. It is common knowledge that changing from C/B to aluminum is an upgrade so if you already had aluminum then installing a C/B is a big downgrade.

The exact reproduction aluminum radiator, like the one in your photos is $795. This is a very unique design "stack plate" radiator. The plates form a passage instead of the conventional tubes. It also has no end tanks and this is what makes them unrepairable. You cannot re-core this radiator because it is a core.





http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...r-no-detailing

You can also get the above radiator all detailed up with date codes, painted and stickers but that doesnt sound like your direction.

The next step is our Direct Fit version on the above unit. $525





http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...minum-radiator

Finally, here is one we make for Zip Products $399

http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...inum-radiator/

Similar to our 1139063M but without a stamped upper cover plate and square end tanks. Still works well
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 07:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi Quank,
That looks like a nice aluminum radiator.
The inlet and outlet hoses are at a slightly different location and angle than the original Harrison.
Also, the radiator in your picture is set up for a radiator cap and overflow hose.
The original radiator in P71's car has a surge tank with the radiator cap on it.
Also, I'm not sure from the single picture just how it might be mounted in the core support since it appears it doesn't have the 2 required 'pegs' on its bottom, nor the center bracket on the top, center for mounting to the top of the core support.
These things may or may not be a concern to potential users.
Regards,
Alan

Alan,
The radiator in my Pic is for an '81, The PO would have to get the correct radiator for his year, as Tom posted above
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 08:25 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Paul,

C3 radiator discussions can get confusing because there were (6) six radiators during the 15 year run.

68 BB and SB with AC or Auto 22.5" Copper/Brass

68-72 Aluminum used with base car small block engines (no AC, no auto) Uses surge tank

69-72 SB 26.5" C/B used with AC, or Auto, or LT1 & L46

69-72 BB 27.5" C/B (no filler neck, uses surge tank)

73-76 All 27.5 C/B with filler neck

77-82 26.25" C/B with filler neck (that's the one in the photos above)

Your radiator was #2 on the list and it is very important to stay with some form of aluminum radiator. It is common knowledge that changing from C/B to aluminum is an upgrade so if you already had aluminum then installing a C/B is a big downgrade.

The exact reproduction aluminum radiator, like the one in your photos is $795. This is a very unique design "stack plate" radiator. The plates form a passage instead of the conventional tubes. It also has no end tanks and this is what makes them unrepairable. You cannot re-core this radiator because it is a core.





http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...r-no-detailing

You can also get the above radiator all detailed up with date codes, painted and stickers but that doesnt sound like your direction.

The next step is our Direct Fit version on the above unit. $525





http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...minum-radiator

Finally, here is one we make for Zip Products $399

http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...inum-radiator/

Similar to our 1139063M but without a stamped upper cover plate and square end tanks. Still works well
Lets see Chumpion make a well informative post like that....
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 06:26 AM
  #26  
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Check out Champions website.

It appears they back up their products. Warranty looks to be basically the same for both. I also haven't seen anything written bad about them.

If I have to choose between the 2 I am saving myself $200.

http://www.championradiators.com/

http://www.championcooling.com/

Last edited by 540 vette; Oct 9, 2014 at 06:41 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 06:27 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
Lets see Chumpion make a well informative post like that....

I don't think they have a rep on this site.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 08:58 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
I don't think they have a rep on this site.
Corvettes aren't very popular in China
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 09:38 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pauls71stingray
You tell me? The previous owner parked it with straight antifreeze.


Is straight antifreeze a no no? I thought all antifreeze is already premixed and can be used right out of the jug you buy it in? I am just about to prep my car for storage, and will be checking/replaceing the coolant.

Sorry if this is a hijack, but I need to clarify this now.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #30  
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Hi CVO,
My understanding is that using 100% anti-freeze reduces the cooling capacity of the cooling system.
Not all anti-freezes are 'pre-mixed.
From what I've read on the NCRS Board it appears using a GO-5 antifreeze is what most suggest, and also suggest a 50/50 mix.
BUT there are MANY DIFFERENT OPINIONS on what to use.
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; Oct 9, 2014 at 10:36 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by CVO2FIXUP
Is straight antifreeze a no no? I thought all antifreeze is already premixed and can be used right out of the jug you buy it in? I am just about to prep my car for storage, and will be checking/replaceing the coolant.

Sorry if this is a hijack, but I need to clarify this now.
50/50 mix is a must. Prestone for example, is sold both ways. One is 50/50 ready to use, and the other is pure antifreeze. Also, only use distilled water to mix.

Last edited by 71 Green 454; Oct 9, 2014 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CVO2FIXUP
Is straight antifreeze a no no? I thought all antifreeze is already premixed and can be used right out of the jug you buy it in? I am just about to prep my car for storage, and will be checking/replaceing the coolant.

Sorry if this is a hijack, but I need to clarify this now.
No. The majority of antifreeze sold in 1 gal. jugs is 100% strength. It should be diluted to achieve the level of freeze/overheat protection desired and adjusted in accordance with the directions or chart on the jug.

Unless the label says 'pre-mixed' or similar, assume it's not.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 10:53 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by qwank
Corvettes aren't very popular in China

They are made in China and shipped here. How much stuff made in China is in your house. How many parts on the newer vettes are made in china. How many reproduction parts you buy for your C3 are made in China. You are not going to get away from Chinese made products.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 12:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
They are made in China and shipped here. How much stuff made in China is in your house. How many parts on the newer vettes are made in china. How many reproduction parts you buy for your C3 are made in China. You are not going to get away from Chinese made products.
When there's an option of USA made, I try to go that route.

I'll keep track of all the C7 parts I replace and see where they are coming from. I replaced an amplifier last week on one, it was was made in Germany I believe
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #35  
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So do DeWitt or zip have any sales or coupons?
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 12:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by pauls71stingray
So do DeWitt or zip have any sales or coupons?
Zip has coupons every once and a while.

Dewiit does a once a year sale
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 06:11 PM
  #37  
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[QUOTE=540 vette;1588004102]Check out Champions website.

It appears they back up their products. Warranty looks to be basically the same for both. I also haven't seen anything written bad about them.

If I have to choose between the 2 I am saving myself $200.



QUOTE]

sorry to say champion doesn't hold a candle to toms workmanship inside and out, and he is a call or email away and is car and vette savvy unlike the champion tech I spoke to.

Originally Posted by 540 vette
I don't think they have a rep on this site.

you are so very correct, Tom a supporting vender of an American made product is right here to lend a hand and offer valuable tech....Champion is not.....

Last edited by The13Bats; Oct 10, 2014 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 06:13 AM
  #38  
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[QUOTE=The13Bats;1588008696]
Originally Posted by 540 vette
Check out Champions website.

It appears they back up their products. Warranty looks to be basically the same for both. I also haven't seen anything written bad about them.

If I have to choose between the 2 I am saving myself $200.



QUOTE]

I think I gave Tom over 200.00 for my custom made unit, I have seen Toms in person and Champions...sorry to say champion doesn't hold a candle to toms workmanship inside and out, and he is a call or email away and is car and vette savvy unlike the champion tech I spoke to.




you are so very correct, Tom a supporting vender of an American made product is right here to lend a hand and offer valuable tech....Champion is not.....


It's funny because I have also seen both. And they both looked basically the same to me and the guy who paid for the Dewitts.
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 11:48 AM
  #39  
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You can't see how thick the wall thickness is in the cheaper radiator. I just purchased a Dewitt's radiator and my temperature is a steady 180 degrees. I just took a six hour trip to Roanoke, Virginia and back and I am very happy to have the peace of mind with a Dewitt's radiator. Lou.
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 08:01 PM
  #40  
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[QUOTE=540 vette;1588011434]
Originally Posted by The13Bats



It's funny because I have also seen both. And they both looked basically the same to me and the guy who paid for the Dewitts.
Well, I can't speak for what you saw but what I saw the Dewitts was far better made and better looking...they didn't look the same to me at all...
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