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Original Engine, Value?

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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:58 AM
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DSchaefe, just curious which 5-speed do you have? Lou.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 04:56 PM
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I know someone that just coughed up 15k for his 67 L68 block and it was literally just that, a bare block.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by daves 77 vette
I changed the oil in my 77 with an original 350 5 quarts with filter. Now the dip stick is above full mark. Is this o.k.
Welcome Dave to the CF, I see this is your first post, might have been better if you started a new thread to ask your question, but it doesn't matter, you will learn your way around as I did 10 years ago, when changing oil with a new filter, 5 quarts is the recommended amount, the only reason it could be reading high on the dipstick is if all the old oil didn't drain completely, or if the oil pan has been changed. Once you start the engine, the new oil should circulate and maybe then it will read right on the dipstick. Are you sure the car is level when checking it ? Let us know what you find.
Post up some pictures of your car when you can, and once again Welcome to the group

Regards Roy
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by daves 77 vette
I changed the oil in my 77 with an original 350 5 quarts with filter. Now the dip stick is above full mark. Is this o.k.
Coupla questions here. First, did you run the engine for a few minutes after the oil & filter change? If not, you'll get a high reading since the oil filter is still empty. Idle it for a minute or two, shut it off, wait about 5 minutes and then pull the stick. Next, how high above the full mark? If you're about 1/4" high, it's no big deal, if you're like an inch high, that IS a big deal. Another tip: warm up the engine a bit before you pull the pan plug to thin out the oil a tad and suspend any contaminants in the bottom end. Then I let it drain for a good 30 minutes before replacing the pan plug.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by exposingtime
I know someone that just coughed up 15k for his 67 L68 block and it was literally just that, a bare block.
Yes, but there is a BIG difference in what an original 67 427 adds to the value of the car, and what a base motor 71 350 adds to the value of the car.

15 large is pushing it, but it all comes down to what the owner is willing to spend.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by qwank
I Kept my original TH350 transmission for two years after I did my 5 speed swap. I finally got sick of tripping over it in the garage and sold it for scrap. ($15)
How did the 5 speed swap go? I'm considering putting a 5 speed Tremec in my 73 and getting rid of the automatic. Any Advice?
tx
Mark
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Scarlett-73
How did the 5 speed swap go? I'm considering putting a 5 speed Tremec in my 73 and getting rid of the automatic. Any Advice?
tx
Mark
I did not do the swap, bought the car this way. Love the Tremec 5-speed though. Definitely the way to go.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by loup68
DSchaefe, just curious which 5-speed do you have? Lou.
Car has the Tremec 5-Speed Trans
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 08:14 PM
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Well I probably paid a little too much but I have the original drivetrain tucked away in a crate... looks tired...
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 08:46 PM
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NOT having the original motor does affect the value regardless if it is a base motor or a big block,and the ones telling you it does NOT matter are the same people who will be pissing and moaning when they go sell their NOM vette and can't get full value cause it does NOT have its original motor.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 09:18 PM
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Don't think I've ever seen a engine stamp that looks like that on a '71 (?)
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
They're worth nothing to anyone except the present owner of the car. Keep that in mind if the seller starts asking stupid money. It's you or nobody.
Not really . The seller of the engine will get another chance with every future owner of that car and who knows , the next owner might really care.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike


As you can see there are two opposing camps on this topic.
When it comes time to eventually sell YOUR car having the original motor, in whatever condition, gives you the ability to market the car successfully to both camps.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 04:38 AM
  #34  
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It being said that it can be original only once, I built a complete engine to replace the OEM L48, so that I can just store it away complete. I have no intention of ever reinstalling that engine or tranny, but who knows what someone might want to do 10, 30 years from now. I have the room for storage and so far I've saved every OEM part that has come off that car. Been following this post and it seems their is a lot of different thoughts on this subject, to each there own. 'Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift'. T
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 05:07 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Don't think I've ever seen a engine stamp that looks like that on a '71 (?)
It does look odd. Not wrong, just odd. That second zero in the assembly date????
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 10:59 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by emccomas
It does look odd. Not wrong, just odd. That second zero in the assembly date????
Yes exactly. The three character engine code is weird too.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 11:52 AM
  #37  
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Looks ok to me?

Serious doubt someone is stamping 270hp motors......

Teach me something? Comparable examples?

edit: I do see that engine has been taken apart in it's past.

OP, You made the right move IMO!

Last edited by Don Rickles; Jan 7, 2015 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 12:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by War Bonnet
Looks ok to me?

Serious doubt someone is stamping 270hp motors......

Teach me something? Comparable examples?

edit: I do see that engine has been taken apart in it's past. You made the right move IMO!
I agree maybe it's a later or newer stamp jig ..... I don't see a big call for restamping base engines either... Maybe some C2 s

Wouldn't worry either way.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LS4 PILOT

Wouldn't worry either way.
The only reason the OP bought it was it supposedly being the original born-with engine. That's now in question.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 12:55 PM
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several positives,
nice decades old patina
no paint on the pad
font height looks correct
edge of the pad seems to be aged well

but,

can't see broach marks very well
several zeros in the smaller font stamp kit to show the VIN derivitive
only one zero in the stamp kit for the build and broadcast code.. the stamper had to use a different font. this does occur but raises a tiny flag. The engine code letters seem to be a little spaced askew.

Simple solution.. What's the casting date code of the engine? this should resolve a few of the questions.

the patina and the base engine argument would tend to sway me toward authenticity.. if I knew the casting date of the block.
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