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I changed the oil in my 77 with an original 350 5 quarts with filter. Now the dip stick is above full mark. Is this o.k.
Welcome Dave to the CF, I see this is your first post, might have been better if you started a new thread to ask your question, but it doesn't matter, you will learn your way around as I did 10 years ago, when changing oil with a new filter, 5 quarts is the recommended amount, the only reason it could be reading high on the dipstick is if all the old oil didn't drain completely, or if the oil pan has been changed. Once you start the engine, the new oil should circulate and maybe then it will read right on the dipstick. Are you sure the car is level when checking it ? Let us know what you find.
Post up some pictures of your car when you can, and once again Welcome to the group
I changed the oil in my 77 with an original 350 5 quarts with filter. Now the dip stick is above full mark. Is this o.k.
Coupla questions here. First, did you run the engine for a few minutes after the oil & filter change? If not, you'll get a high reading since the oil filter is still empty. Idle it for a minute or two, shut it off, wait about 5 minutes and then pull the stick. Next, how high above the full mark? If you're about 1/4" high, it's no big deal, if you're like an inch high, that IS a big deal. Another tip: warm up the engine a bit before you pull the pan plug to thin out the oil a tad and suspend any contaminants in the bottom end. Then I let it drain for a good 30 minutes before replacing the pan plug.
I Kept my original TH350 transmission for two years after I did my 5 speed swap. I finally got sick of tripping over it in the garage and sold it for scrap. ($15)
How did the 5 speed swap go? I'm considering putting a 5 speed Tremec in my 73 and getting rid of the automatic. Any Advice?
tx
Mark
NOT having the original motor does affect the value regardless if it is a base motor or a big block,and the ones telling you it does NOT matter are the same people who will be pissing and moaning when they go sell their NOM vette and can't get full value cause it does NOT have its original motor.
As you can see there are two opposing camps on this topic.
When it comes time to eventually sell YOUR car having the original motor, in whatever condition, gives you the ability to market the car successfully to both camps.
It being said that it can be original only once, I built a complete engine to replace the OEM L48, so that I can just store it away complete. I have no intention of ever reinstalling that engine or tranny, but who knows what someone might want to do 10, 30 years from now. I have the room for storage and so far I've saved every OEM part that has come off that car. Been following this post and it seems their is a lot of different thoughts on this subject, to each there own. 'Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift'. T
several positives,
nice decades old patina
no paint on the pad
font height looks correct
edge of the pad seems to be aged well
but,
can't see broach marks very well
several zeros in the smaller font stamp kit to show the VIN derivitive
only one zero in the stamp kit for the build and broadcast code.. the stamper had to use a different font. this does occur but raises a tiny flag. The engine code letters seem to be a little spaced askew.
Simple solution.. What's the casting date code of the engine? this should resolve a few of the questions.
the patina and the base engine argument would tend to sway me toward authenticity.. if I knew the casting date of the block.