Ballpark range on 69-72 nice driver?


Sick to my stomach about it but it may just sell
Should have enough left over to stick something in the garage
First choice is a 67 Camaro....however they are crazy expensive and dont get much for the money.
2nd choice would be a 70 stingray...may settle for 68-72 depending. They are cramped but hell its a toy what do I care.
Stick would be my first choice. Something where the susp gremlins have been addressed...presentable interior, paint. Not perfect but not bad either. SOmething I can drive really and piece together a ratty motor and go play with, or drive to work. That type of thing BBC car ideal may consider a SBC. Basically something not needing a frame off just a litle tlc/detail
What kind of range am I looking at?
Not into # matching rare this rare that. Went down that road before and found it meant nothing come sale time and endured the boredom of owning a stock car the whole time.
Add $2000 for a 4 speed.
Add $5000 for a big block.
I personally looked at over 50 cars and the ones costing less all had some serious issues.
Your mileage may vary.
I have $9,000 invested in it at this point (what I paid for it is irrelevant since it depends on what repairs previous owner did to the car).
The suspension is completely rebuilt/the stock non-original (1970) drivetrain has been completely rebuilt/the interior has been gutted and renewed to daily driver status (meaning that I did not buy top-of-the-line replacement seat covers-etc.)
New daily driver quality exterior chrome has been purchased/etc.
I know that a basic daily driver paint job will be about $5,000....or $3,000 in someone's private shop.
Those things are the BASICS...... and will give me a "new-looking" daily driver for $14,000....nothing spectacular...just VERY reliable and decent looking.
At the lower price levels of 68-72 cars once you get by the rust issue you can be pretty sure that the lower the price is, the more it will need.
Decent 68-72 cars are not worth fortunes but they aren't aren't being given away.
I'm thinking a similar figure to Iax…. $15,000-$20,000 for what you describe.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by AkrHack; Nov 12, 2014 at 09:00 PM.


Not equipped nor have the desire to screw with it. Sounds like I could probably get more for the money with the vette. Its the steering/trailing arm bearing stuff I hate on those cars it would have to be right.
I dont even care if the paints old really. Just good bones sound etc.
Rest I can deal with. Kind of car I can leave anywhere not worry about it but romp the daylights out of. Was alot more fun owning a car that wasnt "perfect" ILl be honest. not a big attention geek. just like to go fast and drive something cool looking
NOM isnt important and have 0 desire to ever do another frame off.
Last edited by cv67; Nov 13, 2014 at 09:23 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


not meaning abuse but have some real fun with
Build a cheap ratty bbc or bigger ci sb.
I believe a car can be driven hard but not abused that type of thing
Basic street cruising hit the onramp hard, take it to the track once in awhile that type of thing. Something I can take to work
Thats what they are for...followed a 55 chevy the other night for miles..
fuel cell tubbed beautiful...noone on the road, deg a big cammed BBC
Wouldnt go over 35 mph drove me absolutely nuts.

What a waste.
Last edited by cv67; Nov 13, 2014 at 09:30 AM.
Good buys are out there if you are not in a hurry to buy and take the time to look on line daily.
---I don't "speed shift" even when I'm doing a pull...don't try to sqeal every gear. Even though I can.
---I don't "power brake" my burnouts...left a nice 40 foot long one in the driveway last night.
---I don't "clutch dump" or otherwise leave a standing start with the RPM's over 2,000.
I treat my car with a great deal of respect AND I have lots of fun with it. There is LOTS you can do with a 40+ year old car as long as you treat it correctly.
I paid $7k for my car, but it came with $8k worth of issues that needed to be corrected in the first year alone (radiator, then ignition, then fueling, then engine).
I'd say a well stored $15k car (a little more or less depending) should get you a really nice driver that you could work on in your own sweet time.
I'm working through a frame replacement now which is both good and bad. Bad for the expense and trouble, but good in that the ENTIRE car under the body will be under 5 years old when I'm done (...in 3 years).
If you've been looking, I'm sure you've already discovered how few sticks there are available relative to slush-boxes. That's why the price premium is there. Personally, I'd stick to your guns. I did and LOVE it. Having a stick really opens up your engine/performance choices later on by not having to match stuff to a torque converter.
Good luck. Have fun in the search!!!
Last edited by keithinspace; Nov 13, 2014 at 01:07 PM.





















