Headlight switch
11-20-2014, 12:13 PM
#2
Team Owner
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Dying. The resistance coil eventually burns in two.
11-20-2014, 12:52 PM
#3
Race Director
11-21-2014, 01:02 AM
#4
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For the 68, I replaced the incandescents with LED's in the in the center instrument panel and in the shifter console. Incandescents are still in the speedo/tach panel. This greatly reduces heat loading on the reostat. The incandescents are still dimmible. The original reostat on the 68 burnt out. Replaced it with a repro/OEM?.
11-21-2014, 06:40 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Having my 68 coupe for 42 years and using it as a DD for close to five years, after a divorce, I had to replace my headlight switch a few times. Since it is such an easy job to get at the switch, LOL, I made a piece of thick copper sheet to jumper out the rheostat on the switch top terminals.
It still works after about 38 years! Just my two cents worth for a driver, not NCRS correct. Lou.
It still works after about 38 years! Just my two cents worth for a driver, not NCRS correct. Lou.
11-21-2014, 07:12 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
I really recommend rewiring how the headlamps work and use a relay on each side to send power to the headlamps (use the headlight switch as just the switched power signal to the relays so that the current draw is not going through the headlight switch itself).
That won't help with issues involving the dimmer (rheostat), but it'll make your car wiring a bit safer.
That won't help with issues involving the dimmer (rheostat), but it'll make your car wiring a bit safer.
11-22-2014, 04:46 PM
#7
Team Owner
Answering your original question...
Too much current load on the headlamp switch.
Too much current load on the headlamp switch.