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Hello I have a 1969 convertible that I am having issues with. When I put the guide pins on the rear of the top into the socket/hole it wont stay locked in. The drivers side is the worst side. BTW this is just after a repaint and I am putting it back together. I cannot see how the sockets can be adjusted. When removing the sockets I marked driver side and passenger side and the rods that unlatch the guide pins were left alone. Everything went back fine and the unlatch parts work fine. It almost seems like the heads on the guide pins are too small. Am I missing something?
Paul
Hi Paul. I'm not quite sure I understand the exact details you are describing in your first post but I can offer a couple ideas on this issue based in some of my experiences.
1. Did you remove your deck lid for painting? While the "sockets" or retainers that mount to the deck lid are not adjustable in the lid, the deck lid itself is movable on the body, which is much the same in this case for pin to retainer fit. Look for witness marks on the underside of your deck lid at the bolt location for its original location.
2. Did you remove the top itself from the body for painting? If so, you'll need to ensure the frame gets located/re-installed exactly as it came apart.
Personally, I would not change the length adjustment of the pins. My logic could be wrong, but if it used to fit with the current length, it ought to work after re-install without changing. Keep in mind that the retainers only hold one small portion of the pin's circumference. Look down into the retainer and actuate it by hand. Make sure your linkages are adjusted so that they are giving full movement.
Also, if it's cold in your environment, the top might just be stiff, which will make it act like it's smaller/tighter. Try engaging your rear pins before you clamp the front. I've found success in raising and clamping the top in this order in all temperature conditions.
Also, if it's cold in your environment, the top might just be stiff, which will make it act like it's smaller/tighter. Try engaging your rear pins before you clamp the front. I've found success in raising and clamping the top in this order in all temperature conditions.
When removing your rear deck lid or your top bow assembly , if it were not put back in the same spot it would change the position of your guide pins maybe too far back or too far forward. So you either have to make the adjustments the same as they were or add or remove the curved shims that are on your rear latch brackets that your guide pins screw into.
Hi Paul. I'm not quite sure I understand the exact details you are describing in your first post but I can offer a couple ideas on this issue based in some of my experiences.
1. Did you remove your deck lid for painting? While the "sockets" or retainers that mount to the deck lid are not adjustable in the lid, the deck lid itself is movable on the body, which is much the same in this case for pin to retainer fit. Look for witness marks on the underside of your deck lid at the bolt location for its original location.
2. Did you remove the top itself from the body for painting? If so, you'll need to ensure the frame gets located/re-installed exactly as it came apart.
Personally, I would not change the length adjustment of the pins. My logic could be wrong, but if it used to fit with the current length, it ought to work after re-install without changing. Keep in mind that the retainers only hold one small portion of the pin's circumference. Look down into the retainer and actuate it by hand. Make sure your linkages are adjusted so that they are giving full movement.
Also, if it's cold in your environment, the top might just be stiff, which will make it act like it's smaller/tighter. Try engaging your rear pins before you clamp the front. I've found success in raising and clamping the top in this order in all temperature conditions.
Hope this helps...
The deck lid was removed for paint and was put back on to align with the body. Are you saying this could be off even though it is right on the marks with the body? Also when putting on the top should the front be clamped down first? Yes it is cold here but I have been locking the back it first because there is no way I can lock down the front and then the back.
Also, if it's cold in your environment, the top might just be stiff, which will make it act like it's smaller/tighter. Try engaging your rear pins before you clamp the front. I've found success in raising and clamping the top in this order in all temperature conditions.
I missed the obvious. This is so true.
This is the way I am doing it. I cannot do it opposite.
When removing your rear deck lid or your top bow assembly , if it were not put back in the same spot it would change the position of your guide pins maybe too far back or too far forward. So you either have to make the adjustments the same as they were or add or remove the curved shims that are on your rear latch brackets that your guide pins screw into.
I will take a look at the guide pins today and see about shimming them.
The deck lid was removed for paint and was put back on to align with the body. Are you saying this could be off even though it is right on the marks with the body? Also when putting on the top should the front be clamped down first? Yes it is cold here but I have been locking the back it first because there is no way I can lock down the front and then the back.
You can get some fore/aft adjustment for the deck lid by moving the location of the lid at the hinge bar. Look for witness marks on the underside from where the lid used to be fastened. Be careful when changing this location, however, as too much rearward movement may cause a conflict with the body when closing the deck, which may cause damage to your fresh paint. Make sure you maintain a clearance gap between panels.
As for the sequence of securing the top, yes - set the 2 rear pins first, then clamp the 3 front lever clamps to secure.
You can get some fore/aft adjustment for the deck lid by moving the location of the lid at the hinge bar. Look for witness marks on the underside from where the lid used to be fastened. Be careful when changing this location, however, as too much rearward movement may cause a conflict with the body when closing the deck, which may cause damage to your fresh paint. Make sure you maintain a clearance gap between panels.
As for the sequence of securing the top, yes - set the 2 rear pins first, then clamp the 3 front lever clamps to secure.
Ok I looked at adjustment on the deck lid and the lid is gapped perfect all the way around. It was also painted on the underside so the were no history marks that I could see.
I am going to have to try shims on the pins it sounds like. That would move it in the direction that it needs to go.
Are you sure that the release rods are adjusted correctly, they control how far open and closed the release mechanism is. If the rod is adjusted too short, then the lock will not close far enough to hold onto the pin.
If you adjust the rod length, make sure to check that it opens enough to release the pin when you pull the release, otherwise if you put the top on, you may have a hard tim getting it off.