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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 12:29 AM
  #1  
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Default Various questions

Alright, I didn't want to start a multitude of threads for each little question I have, so I'm putting them all here. Feel free to answer only what you want.
  1. ANSWERED
    My left rear caliper is leaking. The right rear is perfectly fine and does not need to be rebuilt. In fact, it was replaced at some point in the past 3 years by the PO before I got the car in April '14. I want to put o-ring calipers at all 4 corners eventually but right now I cant afford that: I just want to get back on the road. So, should I rebuild the left rear with lip seals (or replace it) or is it okay to rebuild it with o-rings, even though the other 3 calipers will be lip-sealed?

  2. ANSWERED
    I know 77 and up have a leather shift boot for both autos and manuals, whereas only the 4-speeds had them up until then. I have a 76 auto, so I dont have a shift boot: just the 2 little plastic slider seals. Has anyone ever cut out the slider seal section on an auto shifter plate and put in a leather shift boot? Alternatively, maybe the shift boot could be modified to fit without having to cut the plate. I know the boot is held in place with just 4 screws so it shouldnt be that hard, and I think it'd look pretty neat but I've never seen it done.

  3. ANSWERED
    Does anyone have photos of the cup holder that screws to the center console beneath the park brake handle? Not the one that slides over the park brake handle, and not the big, clear plastic thing that covers the entire shift console. The vendors only show pictures of the cup holder itself, or very small photos of it in a car. I'd like to see it somewhat clearer.

  4. Who are the recommended seat belt rebuilders that DON'T cost as much as buying a new set of belts? I've heard good things about Ssnake-Oyl, but also that they can cost near what a brand new set would run. Who does good work without breaking the bank?

  5. ANSWERED
    I know my engine is not original to the car. I've dug around on the web a little bit but I'd someone else to take a crack at decoding it.
    Engine Code: K1011DRH
    Partial VIN: 19S139197
    Casting #: 3970010


  6. ANSWERED
    Based on the numbers above is is possible to tell if the block is a 2- or 4-bolt main?

  7. ANSWERED
    This is probably a really dumb question, but I've read my owner's manual and couldn't find an answer. It's about the trip odometer. I know about the little **** below the dash, but when I've futzed with it in the past it either advances the trip 0.1 miles at a time, or causes the odometer itself to move a bit. As soon as I saw the odometer move I quit messing with it. How exactly do I reset my trip-odometer?

  8. The center storage compartment has a lock on the button. Is this supposed to be the same key as the door lock and alarm switch?

  9. I decoded the top string and found that it is correct for my car, quite possibly the one it came with from the factory. The date code puts it July 25, 1975, which is about right I guess as my car rolled out on Nov. 4th 1975. Question is, what does the ADB mean?
    17056206
    2065 ADB

    EDIT: I understand it's the plant code, but what plant?

Thanks for the consideration folks. I appreciate the collective knowledge available here.

Last edited by Kris Tunetso; Jan 24, 2015 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 08:33 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Kris Tunetso
5. know my engine is not original to the car. I've dug around on the web a little bit but I'd someone else to take a crack at decoding it.
Engine Code: K1011DRH
Partial VIN: 19S139197
Casting #: 3970010

8.The glove box (passenger storage compartment) has a lock on the button. Is this supposed to be the same key as the door lock and alarm switch?

9.I decoded the top string and found that it is correct for my car, quite possibly the one it came with from the factory. The date code puts it July 25, 1975, which is about right I guess as my car rolled out on Nov. 4th 1975. Question is, what does the ADB mean?
17056206
2065 ADB

5. K1011DRH - K = St. Catherines, Ontario, 1011 - Oct. 11th, DRH - 350 170hp 4bbl A/T (LM1), Camaro, Caprice, Impala, etc......

8. Not sure if 1976 was the same as earlier C3's, but round key should unlock spare tire carrier and passenger storage compartment. Square key opens door locks and ignition.

9. 17056206 (1976 Corvette & Nova A/T), 2065 (206th day of 1975), ADB (I believe Plant Code)

Last edited by Revi; Jan 23, 2015 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 08:41 AM
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on # 1 i experienced a night mare of monumental proportions before i got all 4 calipers leak free.do your self a favor and replace them all with ss lined o-ring calipers from lone star.others seem to not know how to do it right. on # 8 you have a glove box on a '76?
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Tunetso
...Partial VIN: 19S139197...
S is the assembly plant code for St. Louis, Missouri. In addition to Corvettes, St. Louis also assembled Impalas and light trucks and vans. I'd say your VIN derivative is for an Impala.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by billcarson
on # 1 i experienced a night mare of monumental proportions before i got all 4 calipers leak free.do your self a favor and replace them all with ss lined o-ring calipers from lone star.others seem to not know how to do it right.


Replace them all and be done with it. I used Lonestar also.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:32 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Kris Tunetso
Alright, I didn't want to start a multitude of threads for each little question I have, so I'm putting them all here. Feel free to answer only what you want.
You might find that some of your questions get lost along the way and go unanswered if you do that.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:35 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Kris Tunetso

[*]Based on the numbers above is is possible to tell if the block is a 2- or 4-bolt main?
Almost certainly not a 4 bolt, but the 'need' for 4 bolts is over stated.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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[*]This is probably a really dumb question, but I've read my owner's manual and couldn't find an answer. It's about the trip odometer. I know about the little **** below the dash, but when I've futzed with it in the past it either advances the trip 0.1 miles at a time, or causes the odometer itself to move a bit. As soon as I saw the odometer move I quit messing with it. How exactly do I reset my trip-odometer?


See this thread here for more info on the odometer

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ally-work.html
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 11:01 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Revi
5. K1011DRH - K = St. Catherines, Ontario, 1011 - Oct. 11th, DRH - 350 170hp 4bbl A/T (LM1), Camaro, Caprice, Impala, etc......
Is is possible to tell what year?


8. Not sure if 1976 was the same as earlier C3's, but round key should unlock spare tire carrier and passenger storage compartment. Square key opens door locks and ignition.
According to my owners manual the square key is ignition only. Checking the codes I've learned that both the door locks and the ignition have been replaced at some point (codes don't match the manual) so I'm trying to figure out just how many keys Im going to need to make sure I can use every switch and lock on the car. I think it's 1 for the ignition and 1 for everything else, but I want to be sure before I start paying to have lock cylinders re-keyed.

9. 17056206 (1976 Corvette & Nova A/T), 2065 (206th day of 1975), ADB (I believe Plant Code)
so ADB is the plant code. What plant would that be?
Originally Posted by billcarson
on # 1 i experienced a night mare of monumental proportions before i got all 4 calipers leak free.do your self a favor and replace them all with ss lined o-ring calipers from lone star.others seem to not know how to do it right.
I want to have o-rings at all 4 corners eventually but it's out of the budget right now. The other 3 are fine, so just the 1 will be rebuilt. I guess the real question was "is it okay to have o-ring on the driver's side caliper and lip-seal on the passenger side?

on # 8 you have a glove box on a '76?
of the 3 compartments behind the seats, the drivers side is the battery, middle is storage, passenger is glove box. Or so the owner's manual calls it. I was wrong through: the middle compartment has the lock, not the glove box.
Originally Posted by Easy Mike
S is the assembly plant code for St. Louis, Missouri. In addition to Corvettes, St. Louis also assembled Impalas and light trucks and vans. I'd say your VIN derivative is for an Impala.

So I have an Impala engine. Good to know, thanks Mike.
Originally Posted by Mick71
Replace them all and be done with it. I used Lonestar also.
I'll go this route eventually, but right now I just need the 1 rebuilt so I can get back on the road.
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
You might find that some of your questions get lost along the way and go unanswered if you do that.
I'll remember that in the future. I guess if any of these go unanswered I could always ask again later.
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Almost certainly not a 4 bolt, but the 'need' for 4 bolts is over stated.
Didnt think it was a 4-bolt, but thought I'd ask anyway. I'm not going to build a performance car anyway: 2-bolt will be fine for me.
Originally Posted by Gazehound
See this thread here for more info on the odometer

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ally-work.html
excatly what I needed to see. thanks.
I'll edit the original post to strike questions that have been answered to my satisfaction. Thanks again gents, and keep it coming.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 11:15 AM
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There's nothing wrong with rebuilding the calipers on the same axle. I would rebuild both rear calipers with O-rings.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 11:18 AM
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PM sent.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug Kraft
PM sent.
Responded. Thanks
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Tunetso
So, should I rebuild the left rear with lip seals (or replace it) or is it okay to rebuild it with o-rings, even though the other 3 calipers will be lip-sealed?
O-ring calipers are over rated unless they're being used as band-aid to cover up other issues. I'd rebuild the existing caliper with whatever type seal you like. There's an ongoing myth that the two types can't be intermixed.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
O-ring calipers are over rated unless they're being used as band-aid to cover up other issues. I'd rebuild the existing caliper with whatever type seal you like. There's an ongoing myth that the two types can't be intermixed.
Thank you, Mike. In the interest of budget I think I'll rebuild this one with lip seals, then down the line swap all of them over to o-rings IF it becomes necessary. Who knows? Maybe I'll get lucky and wont need to change the seals for several years.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris Tunetso
Thank you, Mike. In the interest of budget I think I'll rebuild this one with lip seals, then down the line swap all of them over to o-rings IF it becomes necessary. Who knows? Maybe I'll get lucky and wont need to change the seals for several years.
The biggest issue with the lip seals seems to be when the car is not used for long periods and the suggested fix for this if you cant take it for a run is to get in the car every couple of weeks and stand on the brake pedal to keep the brake pistons centred. Excessive rotor run out can cause the seals to draw air into the system and result in a soft pedal. It was suggested to me that o ring seals would be better for cars that sit for long periods, mine doesn't and I have stuck with lip seals with no issues so far (I'm only into my third year of ownership though).
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 08:27 PM
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I can answer your #2 question.

I just used a bridge-port at work to remove the slider mechanism on my 75, could probably do the same with a Dremel.
Then just buy the leather shift boot for a stick car and mount it.


Last edited by Mod75; Jan 24, 2015 at 01:34 PM. Reason: I still cant spell after 67 years............
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mod75
I cam answer your #2 question.

I just used a bridge-port at work to remove the slider mechanism, could probably do the same with a Dremel.
Then just buy the leather shift boot for a stick car and mount it.

THANK YOU!!!

Honestly I was almost sure this one would go unanswered, because I've never even read about anyone doing it, let alone seen it. With the exception of the B&M handle (I'll keep the ****) that's exactly what I want. If you have any other shots I'd love to see them.

I wonder why GM didn't just go that route?
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:52 PM
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#4 You can use the rear seat belts from a 93 to 02 Camaro or Firebird.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
#4 You can use the rear seat belts from a 93 to 02 Camaro or Firebird.
I've read about that, thanks, but I want factory correct seat belts. Buying replacements is expensive so hopefully someone knows a rebuilder that charges less than that.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:31 PM
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Pics of the shifter mod. I think the stick boot is a rectangle shape? not sure but did have to do some mods to the boot also.

Is this the cup holder in question? Mounts with two screws from the side using the factory console mounting locations. Has removable inserts for the bigger drinks also. Fits an extra/large White Castle drink and onion rings with no problems







Last edited by Mod75; Jan 24, 2015 at 01:44 PM.
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