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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 09:06 PM
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Default Frame on restoration

I am going to slowly clean and paint the frame of my 78 while still keeping it on the road. So far I have washed it with a steam cleaner to remove all (or most) of the grease, dirt, oils etc. Some before and after pictures at photobucket.

http://s40.photobucket.com/user/biac...RVETTE%20FRAME

Next phase is to use a wire wheel to clean the rest of the dirt and rust off at a section at a time, clean it with some type of rust dissolver, prime and paint GM Chassis black. Doing some research now to find the best product for what I want to do.

From what I have researched so far, the best thing I can do for the inside of the frame is to paint it with Eastman's rust encapsulator.

Whatever I get done between now and mid May will be it until next winter. Car comes down from the lift and onto the road as soon as it gets nice out!
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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 09:29 PM
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Unless start pulling things about you are going to make a mess.

Very easy one weekend job to remove the control arms and springs. Mask the area off and paint the frame. Then clean up the control arms. I had mine hot tanked then blasted. Replaced the bushings too and painted them with VHT Epoxy paint.

Frame was painted with VHT roll bar and chassis paint satin.

I also have the motor out for more room.

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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ddawson
Unless start pulling things about you are going to make a mess.

Very easy one weekend job to remove the control arms and springs. Mask the area off and paint the frame. Then clean up the control arms. I had mine hot tanked then blasted. Replaced the bushings too and painted them with VHT Epoxy paint.

Frame was painted with VHT roll bar and chassis paint satin.

I also have the motor out for more room.

Looks good!!
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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by biackbenz
I am going to slowly clean and paint the frame of my 78 while still keeping it on the road. So far I have washed it with a steam cleaner to remove all (or most) of the grease, dirt, oils etc. Some before and after pictures at photobucket.

http://s40.photobucket.com/user/biac...RVETTE%20FRAME

Next phase is to use a wire wheel to clean the rest of the dirt and rust off at a section at a time, clean it with some type of rust dissolver, prime and paint GM Chassis black. Doing some research now to find the best product for what I want to do.

From what I have researched so far, the best thing I can do for the inside of the frame is to paint it with Eastman's rust encapsulator.

Whatever I get done between now and mid May will be it until next winter. Car comes down from the lift and onto the road as soon as it gets nice out!

I understand why you want to get the tires on the ground soon! I bought a basketcase/spent 6 months going through the suspension and drivetrain to make it safe to drive.

Your car's frame looks in good shape considering it's a '76.....and it's a good idea to take one section at a time.

Take plenty of pics before disassembling components so they can be reinstalled the same way--PICS OF THE CONTROL ARM SHIMS for example to make sure the alignment stays correct.

What the other member said about completely removing/cleaning/painting the front suspension can be done in a weekend....and that area of the frame will be much easier to refinish.

Same thing with the differential suspension.....a weekend will have it looking like new.

Drop the gas tank---clean it---refinish the entire area of the frame while the gas tank is out of the car.

You get the idea!
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 07:20 AM
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I've been painting my frame as well. I've been very happy with the results from the POR 15 line of products. Pricey but worth it imo.
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:45 PM
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Thanks Guys, You are correct that some of this needs to be disassembled to really do correctly. For now, I am just going to do the rails and crossmembers below the cabin area where I can get at them fairly easily. maybe next winter when back in storage I will disassemble the front or rea ends and do those areas at that time. May even pull the engine to do that as well.

As far as getting something like that done in a weekend? Not me! First I look at the job for an hour trying to get the nerve to start taking it apart. Once I get started I'm OK but damn slow. Then I spend an hour looking for the damn screw, nut washer etc that I just dropped and can't find! Then I spend 10 minutes looking for the tool I just put down and can no longer find. But eventually I get it done.

Did anyone notice the paint markings on the footwells? Anyone know what "894" might mean? I can't find the date code at the moment but the car was built October 10 1977.
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Hi bb,
I'm thinking the number you mention is on the passenger's side toe board in the engine compartment.
Earlier a 'job number' was written there in crayon to identify the car on the production line. The number ran up to 500 and then started over.
I've not heard of them going higher….. any chance it's a 3 and not an 8?
The job # was also written in pencil on the tank sheet.
Regards,
Alan

Here's an example. 186
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Street Rat
I've been painting my frame as well. I've been very happy with the results from the POR 15 line of products. Pricey but worth it imo.


POR 15 is what I used.

Before:



After:




Donnie
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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I applied Eastman's internal Frame Paint. Using the two foot hose and nozzle I applied it as far forward as I could reach from behind the front wheels. I applied it between there and the end of the frame in front of the rear wheels as well as the crossmembers. The stuff is very liquid and did leak out some of the openings as they say it will. Can't really tell how well I have it coated but I applied several coats attempting to get a good cover. More to follow for anyone who is interested. As I said before, I want to clean it up but I am not planning a frame off restoration. Therefore, you can see where I masked it off.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 12:19 PM
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If you knock all the rust off the frame, there would be no reason to use POR-15 to paint it. The benefit of POR-15 is that it bonds to the existing rust (fixed rust, not loose rust) and makes the rust inert.

If you knock only the loose rust off, you could use POR-15 or use a 'rust converter' product to make the rust inert, then paint it with Rustoleum or some other less costly paint.
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 06:31 PM
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I finished what I planned to do with the frame. Just in time to get the car on the road - it is supposed to be in the high '60's on Saturday. Overall, I am please with the results. while not as goo as a frame off I was able to clean and paint everything under the cabin area without getting any on the unfinished fiberglass. After a summer of fun, maybe I'll rebuild the front suspension and do those parts then.
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 09:13 PM
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Looks very nice.
This is on my list as well...
What is your opinion of the Eastwood products, and how much did you use? I received one of their kits containing 3 cans of the internal frame coating and 3 cans of their rust encapsulating paint. In your opinion will this be enough to do the entire frame?
Thanks for your input, and nice job!
Jeff
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by biackbenz
Did anyone notice the paint markings on the footwells? Anyone know what "894" might mean? I can't find the date code at the moment but the car was built October 10 1977.
Job number and you can confirm if you have the build sheet by looking at the schedule date information in the left-hand upper corner. Look for a format such as:

44-0894 (schedule and job number)
10-10 (October 10th)




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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ShakinJ
Looks very nice.
This is on my list as well...
What is your opinion of the Eastwood products, and how much did you use? I received one of their kits containing 3 cans of the internal frame coating and 3 cans of their rust encapsulating paint. In your opinion will this be enough to do the entire frame?
Thanks for your input, and nice job!
Jeff
Jeff,

I painted the frame from just behind the front control arms to the front side of the rear wheels. I used three spray cans of internal frame paint. With the two foot hose and nozzle I did snake up past the control arms maybe all the way to the front of the frame. The cost of the paint less than my time I think I put it on fairly heavy but I really cant see. It is very runny and probably most of it is on the bottom rail which may be better?. I did not get any of the frame around the rear wheels and back.

I purchased one spray can and one quart of rust encapsulator. I used half the can applying several coats with a brush. No brush marks. I then used the spray for areas I could not reach with a brush. I was able to get every area that you can see.

I used two spray cans of the frame paint. Might have been able to get by with less but I put on two coats.

Iasked eastwood if oil would affect internal frame paint. They honestly do not know. For kicks I put a little on a rusted piece of steel. I am going to put some oil on part of it, cover it up and put it outside for a while. Just to see what happens.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 12:22 PM
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Thanks very much for the reply.
It sounds like I may have enough to do the entire frame. I guess it will depend on how heavy and how many coats...
It does look very nice, I hope mine turns out as well.

Jeff
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