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During my first spirited spring drive the front leading edge ( the front leading edge of the top that rests on the top of the windshield ) pulled apart by the speed of my chariot. It looks like the wrong glue was used to put it all together, the old adhesive looks to be super glue or something very hard and not flexible.
I did however try to look amongst the vast knowledge on the Forum but did not see anything on solvents or adhesive removers that were safe to use on the top to remove the old glue.
I did pick up 3M stage one adhesive remover and have acetone as well to remove the old glue. I want to make sure these chemicals won't screw up the top which overall, is heavy weight vinyl and in great condition despite its age. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks guys
Last edited by midigike; Mar 30, 2015 at 06:56 AM.
Reason: Grammar
WOW! My '68 top is glued and STAPLED under the front bow. I wouldn't know what remover to use---only that women's fingernail polish remover is supposed to remove super-glue.
I would test it on an area about the size of a dime first....and wait a few hours to see how the vinyl reacts.
Last edited by doorgunner; Mar 30, 2015 at 08:58 AM.
I'm no expert at this but I think the front is supposed to be attached by the header tack strip. As these get on with age the tack strips become used too many times and need to be replaced. Maybe that was the case and someone decided to "Bubba" it and just use glue. It may be time to have a professional do it right And while you're at it . . .
Your front header should have a thick fiberboard tack strip....or may even be a thick dense hard plastic.rubber that the staples go into.....and this tack strip is help in place by metal tabs that bend and hold the tack strip. No need for glue...but do as you like.
Also you should have a rolled piece of vinyl with round foam in it at the front edge of your header????
Your front header should have a thick fiberboard tack strip....or may even be a thick dense hard plastic.rubber that the staples go into.....and this tack strip is help in place by metal tabs that bend and hold the tack strip. No need for glue...but do as you like.
Also you should have a rolled piece of vinyl with round foam in it at the front edge of your header????
Doorgunner- yes mine did look like your top, but the staples are of the gauge most teachers use in third grade, then just blotches of glue here and there.
Dochorsepower- yes the tack strip is dated but does look OK, but I think I combo of the wrong glue, staples and wind shear delt the final blow.
As far as finding a "professional" - there are more butchers than bakers if you know what I mean.
DUB- yes there is a rolled strip, I truly believe it is a Al Knoch top from the early 90s and good quality. My concern is that chemical adhesive removers will bleach out the black vinyl
It is a useful solvent and I use it quite often with no ill effects. What I have more of an aneurysm over is when people go CRAZY with WD-40 and other spray greases, spray penetrating oils, tire shine stuff and interior conditioners.
To each his/her own.
Originally Posted by midigike
My concern is that chemical adhesive removers will bleach out the black vinyl
When you remove the rolled strip...which should be stapled....it is covering a portion of the convertible top where it is SUPPOSED TO be stapled to the tack strips. SO...if the rolled foam strip is off...you should have no worries about any bleaching if you PAY ATTENTION in what you are doing....because that portion of the top material is going to be covered by the foam strip.
DO a small test spot and see....because NO adhesive should be any where near the vinyl rolling to the outside side surface. You will be all on the underside...and that will be covered by the foam strip.
Not really arguing with you but if you put acetone anywhere near paint it is game over. No going back at that point. You have ruined a finish. I used a milder version of a solvent (RaggTopp) a couple of years ago and it dripped on my driver's seat cover. The flaw is still there on beautiful seat covers. A minor flaw but it still irritates me. You play with a convertible top be very careful.
I will be re-doing a black StayFast top with a cleaner and dye in a couple of weeks. The top is in very fine condition but a wee bit faded. Plastic drop sheets will be everywhere. Be careful with solvents.
OK,
I took about 4 hours but I have repaired the leading edge.
Dub, yes the top rolls around the edge and then the rolled strip goes over. I let it sit out in the sun and warm up then gently pulled it all apart, pulled all the cheap staples and cleaned all the old adhesive with the 3M stage 1 adhesive remover. I used a cotton swab and a exacto knife to scrape off the heavy areas. That was about 2.5 hours to clean up. I used 3M black adhesive to glue it all back together and restapled it.
It came out very nice and you would really have to look to see that it was repaired.
I would not however use acetone on the vinyl top as it strips the sheen away from the vinyl, but as far as a cleaner and remover it cannot be beat in the correct application.
Thanks again guys for the feed back. Im having a hard time posting pics but will try again.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Glad you got it done. We used Bacitracin ointment in the Urgent Care center I worked in to remove super glue. Worked good when someone glued their fingers together by mistake. Very gentle also.
Not really arguing with you but if you put acetone anywhere near paint it is game over. No going back at that point. You have ruined a finish. I used a milder version of a solvent (RaggTopp) a couple of years ago and it dripped on my driver's seat cover. The flaw is still there on beautiful seat covers. A minor flaw but it still irritates me. You play with a convertible top be very careful.
I will be re-doing a black StayFast top with a cleaner and dye in a couple of weeks. The top is in very fine condition but a wee bit faded. Plastic drop sheets will be everywhere. Be careful with solvents.
Would these products work on a old black vinyl top ? I need to clean and treat it but was going to use something like Armor All or 303
People can use what they want... for whatever they want. If it works...GREAT
They KEY here is when a solvent is being used....common sense would dictate that a person protect areas that they may be concerned about being damaged. Some of you ...if you were in my shop when I was working and saw what I used in some areas would shake your head....BUT...this is NOT my first rodeo.
Glad to read that you got the top repaired to your liking.
Dub, could not agree more. I used the mildest adhesive remover I could find and patience to remove the old adhesive. I'm in the trades and have the tools, thankfully I was taught by my parents that listening to the guidance of the experienced can sometimes lead you in the right direction in life. Thanks for following up with my project, your the best!
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Convertible top repair
