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Vacuum headlight question??

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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:28 PM
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Default Vacuum headlight question??

Ok I just replaced the right headlight actuator since the other one no longer held vacuum but the question is when they pop up should you be able to hear the "snap" or "clank" sound when fully opened? I know that's the lock position and I can adjust it where you don't hear it but was curious how it was from the factory. Then for 82 owners does your headlight actuator nipples face inboard or outboard? I was told it could be either or. Mine face inboard but the clearance is within a hair thickness with the hose on. Not sure if I'd gain anything if they faced outward...
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 07:40 AM
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Hi,
At least in the early years the nipples both faced out-board. (Don't 'think' they ever changed.)
There's a 'stop' on the end of the arm that limits how far open the headlights can move. This stop should have a black rubber bumper on to change the 'clang' to a 'thud'.
Regards,
Alan





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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 12:26 PM
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Wow is your car in a museum? If not it should be. Thanks for the picture Alan. My car is a 82 so those brackets don't have the rubber stop. So without those I guess that's normal then???
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Wow is your car in a museum? If not it should be.
I maintain the belief that Alan's car does not get driven and that he keeps it pristine to use as a reference piece. There's no way a car that is driven stays that clean.

Beautiful as always Alan.
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 01:59 PM
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Alan, great info and many others appreciate your pics, especially me...being a owner of a 71 basket case. I have been trying to figure out where the horn mounts!!

Have to ask a related question...how long should the reservoir can hold vacuum?
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Hi,
I don't drive it!
I've driven it 46,000 miles though…..in a former life.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi,
At least in the early years the nipples both faced out-board. (Don't 'think' they ever changed.)
There's a 'stop' on the end of the arm that limits how far open the headlights can move. This stop should have a black rubber bumper on to change the 'clang' to a 'thud'.
Regards,
Alan

Alan, after having viewed your photo of the headlight stop and bumper, I
went searching the suppliers catalogues and was unable to find the
bumper listed anywhere, in fact most of them don't even list the stop.
Can you remember who you purchased yours through, assuming you
replaced yours?

Regards,
Mark
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 11:43 PM
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A post that is a little off topic, but I still think relevant.

When I restored my 68, I completely re-did the vacuum head light assemblies...all the fittings with new...and also repro vacuum canisters for headlight actuators. Everything looked beautiful..especially those newly cad plated vacuum canisters. Probably within 4 years, one of the new vacuum canisters failed. Fortunately, I still had the original canisters available. The cad plating on the original didn't look good. I repainted it with Eastwood Cad paint and it looked pretty good. I installed it. I should remove the other repro cannister and repaint it so they look alike..or maybe replace the repro canister with the remaining original canister. I just wish that the repro parts had the quality of the original parts. The repro part failed after a few years. The original 47 year old part works fine.

Last edited by 68/70Vette; Apr 6, 2015 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 01:13 AM
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Alan, after having viewed your photo of the headlight stop and bumper, I
went searching the suppliers catalogues and was unable to find the
bumper listed anywhere, in fact most of them don't even list the stop.
Can you remember who you purchased yours through, assuming you
replaced yours?
I believe auveco still makes them, part#4242. May have to buy alot of them though. I think when i bought mine I searched google with the part# I found in the AIM and found someone selling them individually.
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