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My 71 350 small block will not come off it's secondary high idle. I've replaced the reversing relay GM 3990842 and the delay relay GM 3990843. In each case the CEC solenoid (GM 1114444) remains energized. If I unplug the green wire connector from the reversing relay the solenoid de-energizes. I believe I might have a bad thermal switch which is mounted in the RH cylinder head. Does anyone have the original or replacement part number or if anyone has some additional insight as to what might be causing this I would appreciate any advice.
BTW, the CEC system has worked perfectly for the past 10 years.
The CEC temp switch in the R.H. cylinder head actually has 2 switches in it. One switch is to detect an operating temp TOO LOW; the other is to detect an operating temp TOO HIGH. In either instance, both switches are to turn OFF the ported vacuum feed to the distributor and return it to manifold vacuum. The two terminals on that switch body are actually wired together so that if EITHER of them are 'made', the CEC vacuum choice is bypassed to manifold vacuum.
The CEC system attempts to run the engine hotter at idle by retarding the ignition timing using 'ported' (or timed) vacuum (close to 0" Hg at idle) rather than manifold vacuum (around 16-20" Hg at idle). Hotter cylinder head temps means that more of the hydrocarbons are burned off. But, the engine can overheat if left at idle too long with the CEC system working. When it gets too hot, the "HOT" part of that switch trips and manifold vacuum is then fed to the distributor advance can, allowing the engine to cool off.
I was not happy with ncrs article, did not answer all questions so we went further and My electrical engineer friend helped and we pulled all relays etc apart to check how they may really work in the circuit.
Possibly explains why the green pigtail is so long as well.
The CEC solenoid attached to the carburetor is energized by either the engine temperature switch (cold override), time delay relay or a combination of the reversing relay and transmission switch.
So, you might be heading in the right direction with the temp switch. Since you have already replaced the other items there is only the temp switch and the dreaded transmission switch which in your case is inside the tranny....On the manual trans switch there is a small PVC or plastic ball that wears and doesn't allow the switch to engage, not sure how the automatic switch works....
One other thing could be the wiring? I know you keep your car covered inside but is there a chance a mouse critter might have found a home?
I do recall there was an issue with the repo temp switches available, but can't remember the exactly problem? Perhaps the single prong vs. two prong switch???
You can test this by using another temp switch, by cooling and heating it while not installed in the head.
Craig I did a search and came upon your diagram and your investigation into the infamous CEC system all of which was very helpful.
71vette & WB thanks for confirming how I thought the system works...again very helpful.
I was able to source a new thermal switch which hopefully will do the trick. I'm hoping it's not the trans switch
Once I get it on the lift I will be able to check the wiring....hadn't really thought about critters as I've never had an issue with them but anything is possible.
Anyway thanks again for the help, it's much appreciated.
FWIW, I have left my CEC system pieces on the vehicle, but I normally swap vacuum lines so that the distributor gets manifold vacuum all of the time. At shows (if I choose to do it), I can simply move them over to 'stock' position and display the CEC system as it was from the factory.
The advantage of running with slightly less pollutants does not outweigh the potential wear/damage to the engine from running hotter at idle, IMO.
FWIW, I have left my CEC system pieces on the vehicle, but I normally swap vacuum lines so that the distributor gets manifold vacuum all of the time. At shows (if I choose to do it), I can simply move them over to 'stock' position and display the CEC system as it was from the factory.
The advantage of running with slightly less pollutants does not outweigh the potential wear/damage to the engine from running hotter at idle, IMO.
Since my CEC system is not powered, I have a 'longer than needed' vacuum line from the distribrutor advance can to the end of the metal tube running from the carb solenoid switch. When driving it, I just pull that hose off the metal tube, remove the cap from the manifold vacuum fitting on the right side of the carb, and connect that hose to the fitting. The cap then goes over the end of the metal tube.
Since my CEC system is not powered, I have a 'longer than needed' vacuum line from the distribrutor advance can to the end of the metal tube running from the carb solenoid switch. When driving it, I just pull that hose off the metal tube, remove the cap from the manifold vacuum fitting on the right side of the carb, and connect that hose to the fitting. The cap then goes over the end of the metal tube.
Thanks for the reply, but no capped manifold ports on my car (Auto + PB)
Thanks for the reply, but no capped manifold ports on my car (Auto + PB)
You should have a tube sticking out through the choke mechanism on the right side. That one is manifold vacuum and is the 'normal' connection for the distributor advance can (on Q-Jets).
You should have a tube sticking out through the choke mechanism on the right side. That one is manifold vacuum and is the 'normal' connection for the distributor advance can (on Q-Jets).
I "think"? your referring to the vac port (right front on my carb) which is routed to the manifold vac port on the CEC solenoid.
My Q-Jet carb and those that I've seen have a port on the right side with a tube coming through the choke mechanism. Yours may not have been drilled...or it may be plugged off.
My Q-Jet carb and those that I've seen have a port on the right side with a tube coming through the choke mechanism. Yours may not have been drilled...or it may be plugged off.
Interesting, I haven't seen that setup not that I've looked for it. I know the carb part number is different between a manual & auto but don't know if that makes a difference....your car is probably a 4sp, mine's an automatic.
Anyway I'm going to try to get the system to work the way it was designed...you know that NCRS thing but thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.
An alternate source [for manifold vacuum] would be to put a "T" connector in the rubber line from the fitting on the intake manifold (behind the carb). Run the advance can hose to that "T" fitting for normal driving and cap off the hard line going to the CEC solenoid/switch. Move the dist hose over to the hard line and cap that 'extra' fitting on the manifold outlet for car shows.
An alternate source [for manifold vacuum] would be to put a "T" connector in the rubber line from the fitting on the intake manifold (behind the carb). Run the advance can hose to that "T" fitting for normal driving and cap off the hard line going to the CEC solenoid/switch. Move the dist hose over to the hard line and cap that 'extra' fitting on the manifold outlet for car shows.
Yep that would work but I don't think I'll be doing that. It's too bad the carb doesn't have that spare manifold port.
Yep that would work but I don't think I'll be doing that. It's too bad the carb doesn't have that spare manifold port.
Update?
Were you able to locate a correct temp switch? Another way to test the temp switch is to simply bypass it by looping the connector. Also, I have seen brand new defective time delay and reverse relays, right out of the box. Might want to test each part separately before throwing more parts and $$$ at it?
A properly functioning CEC system will not rob HP, but will help reduce harmful emissions. These early emission systems aren't all that difficult, I find them very interesting. Keep it original and working, my opinion!
Hi,
I agree with WB.
On a car as nice as GQ's I'd be disappointed if the CEC wasn't functioning.
I think the CEC system is sort of like the hidden wipers…. sweet mysteries when they don't work, but sorta cool when they do.
I can't tell you how many times I've shifted into 3rd and 4th while idling just to see if the rpm increases! Each time I think, "please, and then YES"!!!
Regards,
Alan
It's like a Thermos bottle… it keeps hot drinks hot and cold drinks cold…. but how does it know which to do?
Were you able to locate a correct temp switch? Another way to test the temp switch is to simply bypass it by looping the connector. Also, I have seen brand new defective time delay and reverse relays, right out of the box. Might want to test each part separately before throwing more parts and $$$ at it?
A properly functioning CEC system will not rob HP, but will help reduce harmful emissions. These early emission systems aren't all that difficult, I find them very interesting. Keep it original and working, my opinion!
I agree, I like the idea of the vehicle working as designed. I did locate a temp switch just waiting for it to arrive. Once I get it the car goes up on the lift to check the wiring and do some testing. Interesting enough the NOS parts I've replaced weren't all too expensive and look better than the originals. I'll probably keep them for a future owner.