what's it worth
any rodent damage?
any frame rust?
cant tell you what it's worth without knowing what condition the vehicle is in and that picture doesn't give a close enough look to all the potential problems
Whatever you think that car would be worth once it is roadworthy you need to subtract $2000-$5000 (possibly as much as $10k) from the value for parts and labor that will be necessary... And that is assuming it actually has had no significant damage from rodents or insects and has no major rust underneath... Also assuming the engine hasn't siezed up.
At very least it will need a new battery, all new tires, belts and hoses and for sure the fuel tank will need to be taken out and flushed and probably the lines replaced. The coolant should be drained, and replaced and preferably the system flushed. The oil should be drained and replaced along with a new oil filter. Also it is likely the carb will need to be rebuilt, the fuel pump replaced, and it may need new calipers and master cylinder. It may also suffer from other problems which may not be obvious... for example the rubber in the harmonic dampener in my 1980 had gone bad so that had to be replaced... And the radiator was gunked up enough and had a corrosion related leak in a place difficult to repair which meant it had to be replaced as well...
To get it running again before turning it over the spark plugs should be pulled and a little light oil added to each cylinder and allowed to sit for a while to hopefully reduce the startup wear and tear on the rings and the top of the bores.
So bottom line is, if where you are a 1978 is selling between $8000-$12000, I would be thinking this one is worth maybe $4000-$6000 as it sits, depending on condition of interior, number of miles, and the options it has on it. You need to go on the low side in a case like this because of the unknown factor -- you are taking a big risk on what it is going to cost.
In a perfect world you would make a variable offer contingent on what it really takes to fix it up, but that could be messy and I suspect a seller might be reluctant to go for it.
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Because of that risk you should not pay too much or see if you can work out some kind of deal where you pay less or get a partial refund if necessary repairs cost more than a certain amount...
So for example... say you offer $6000... but if the repairs run more than $6000 then you get $2000 back...
it would depend on what the seller thinks it is worth an how motivated they are to sell whether they would even contemplate a deal like that. But if not, then your assumption should be that the repairs will be costly and your offer should be lower.
Whatever you think that car would be worth once it is roadworthy you need to subtract $2000-$5000 (possibly as much as $10k) from the value for parts and labor that will be necessary... And that is assuming it actually has had no significant damage from rodents or insects and has no major rust underneath... Also assuming the engine hasn't siezed up.
At very least it will need a new battery, all new tires, belts and hoses and for sure the fuel tank will need to be taken out and flushed and probably the lines replaced. The coolant should be drained, and replaced and preferably the system flushed. The oil should be drained and replaced along with a new oil filter. Also it is likely the carb will need to be rebuilt, the fuel pump replaced, and it may need new calipers and master cylinder. It may also suffer from other problems which may not be obvious... for example the rubber in the harmonic dampener in my 1980 had gone bad so that had to be replaced... And the radiator was gunked up enough and had a corrosion related leak in a place difficult to repair which meant it had to be replaced as well...
To get it running again before turning it over the spark plugs should be pulled and a little light oil added to each cylinder and allowed to sit for a while to hopefully reduce the startup wear and tear on the rings and the top of the bores.
So bottom line is, if where you are a 1978 is selling between $8000-$12000, I would be thinking this one is worth maybe $4000-$6000 as it sits, depending on condition of interior, number of miles, and the options it has on it. You need to go on the low side in a case like this because of the unknown factor -- you are taking a big risk on what it is going to cost.
In a perfect world you would make a variable offer contingent on what it really takes to fix it up, but that could be messy and I suspect a seller might be reluctant to go for it.
Then there is they reason they parked it and NEVER fixed it.
Then there is they reason they parked it and NEVER fixed it.
But... it was mine, and I had a sentimental attachment... and the wife said it either had to get running again or go...
we were told the engine was recently rebuilt.Fast forward to new rebuilt engine, new tires, new battery, new arm rest ( which was because they lost the old one while working on the doors, because the door locks didn't work and they lost parts ) new front suspension and radiator support. Not to mention the rats nest or wires and other bubba techniques that I would've had no idea on until I started working on the car
We paid 3K, would have rather paid 2. We let our emotions rule on that purchase. Don't get me wrong, love the car, but try not to get caught up in the high of buying a seemingly nice corvette without understanding the hidden risk you are taking. certainly looks like a pace car paint job. But then again ours said L82 on the hood too
Last edited by Tooonz; May 26, 2015 at 11:14 AM.
(1) Hub area of wheels is painted black (Pace Car wheels were polished alum everywhere except the red line just inside of the wheel lip, also missing)
(2) Stainless trim for rear window, Pace Car trim was painted black (satin black, I believe).
I understand the attraction... every time I see a car like that I want to save it... And it is tempting to think that a few bucks could be made flipping them... but the reality is that the collector car market is still incredibly soft and replacement parts are expensive.





















