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My 82' has electrical problems

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Old May 31, 2015 | 01:37 AM
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Default My 82' has electrical problems

My 1982 corvette will stall and not restart until it cools down. Just started down it and don't know why?? Everything is stock with no upgrades.
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Old May 31, 2015 | 08:02 AM
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you need to tell us a little more .the car gets hot then shuts down .It wont turn over or it turns over but wont start.Do you have spark ?do you have fuel?
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Old May 31, 2015 | 10:15 AM
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Have you checked the computer for error codes?

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Old May 31, 2015 | 07:05 PM
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Old May 31, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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I want to follow this thread because heat effects ours as well. It's not stock but I'm leaning towards possible new coil.
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Old May 31, 2015 | 11:51 PM
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It only happens when I run the car for awhile and it gets hot. The car will shut down and not restart until it sits for awhile. It will turn over but not start. Haven't checked for spark and its got plenty of fuel. Has new fuel filters and new fuel pump. I was thinking maybe the starter overheating but that wouldn't make it shut down. I don't have a computer to check for error codes.
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Old May 31, 2015 | 11:56 PM
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Also it used to blow fuses (20amp located next to battery) and stall but I increased the amps to a 30amp fuse and it stop blowing the fuse but still overheats and stalls without blowing the fuse.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 12:36 AM
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You actually thought that adding a higher amperage fuse would really solve your problem?
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 08:45 AM
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I would guess a bad coil because it sounds like electrical but could also be vapor lock.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 10:00 AM
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Does the tach drop immediately to zero or drift down when it stalls?
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by shelby82
Also it used to blow fuses (20amp located next to battery) and stall but I increased the amps to a 30amp fuse and it stop blowing the fuse but still overheats and stalls without blowing the fuse.
does the motor over heat .
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 07:48 PM
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IF the fuse by your battery is GETTING HOT...increasing the amperage of the fuse is not the answer. I have encountered this many times.,..and what I have found is that the terminals in the fuse block are dirty and or LOOSE and not gripping the fuse well. The heat is because of resistance at this connection...and NOT what it is supplying pwoer to. At least...that is what I have found to be the case.

JUST BECAUSE it is not blowing your 'new' 30 amp fuse does not mean that it is effectively supplying 12 volts to the components that this VERY IMPORTANT fuse does for your car. If my memory serves me correctly...this fuse goes to your fuel pump relay, the oil pressure switch on the engine and also the ECM...ALL...major items that make the engine run.

I KNOW you say it gets plenty of fuel...but I have worked on so many Cross-Fire engines that the injectors are spraying fuel and I would SWEAR are GOOD...but actually the fuel pressure is NOT right...even though the spray pattern LOOKS good....it will not run correctly. AND this spray pattern and atomization of the fuel can be effected by the ability of the fuel pump to do its job...and its efficiency DECREASES if the voltage is decreased....or better yet the amps it needs to do its job.

DUB
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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Default Amperage Rating of a Fuse is Critical for Fire Protection.

Originally Posted by shelby82
Also it used to blow fuses (20amp located next to battery) and stall but I increased the amps to a 30amp fuse and it stop blowing the fuse but still overheats and stalls without blowing the fuse.
I recommend you put the correct amperage rated fuse back in. The reason it is blowing [the fuse], it is protecting the wiring and devices being feed from it.

By going up in amp size the wire or the device becomes the fusible link at best. Worse case FIRE!!!

Follow the suggestions to make sure the connections are tight and corrosion free.

Good Luck.
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 11:05 PM
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Default This maybe my problem

Any idea what this is and where i can find one? It is located next to the battery. Sorry about the large pic.
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