Ok, new carpet arrived today so I've started removing all the remaining interior bits and am now looking at the seat belt assys. I am assuming these must come out first and then mount on top of the new carpet? Also what are the tricks to removing the bolt? The brace that the seat belt cover mounts to, is that removable or do I slit the carpet and slide it thru? My thoughts are to mount the sides then the back/floor piece, then the riser, then the compartment covers before moving to the front. Does that sound like the proper order or am I missing something. Thanks for any and all help or insight.

 

There are no trick to removing the bolt for the seat belt retractor other than using the correct size socket and preferably a six point socket so it does not round off the head of the bolt.'

YES..I install the rear carpet FIRST and get ti completed...then do the front carpet.

Take your time on your compartment doors ...because they have to be right in order to work correctly without binding.

When dealing with the front carpets and how the set belt comes up from under the seat...slitting the carpet is your choice. Trying to remove the bolts for the steel brace that the seat belt goes through can be difficult because the rust that can occur on the underside and cause the nut to break loose and then you are screwed. SO...it has everything to do with if you have the 'feel' to know when to STOP trying to get a bolt to come loose....or know if when it is turning...if you are actually turning the bolt...or making it ready to break off. Sometimes looking at the bolt from underneath will let you know if you are turning the bolt or not.

I ..personally remove the seat belt assembly so my slit does not go all the way to the end...but that is just me and I am weird that way.

DUB

 

I just replaced mine. You need to remove, both, the retractor and positive retention (buckle) sides then duplicate the carpet slits from the old carpet where they affix to the floor. Removing the retractor-side (closest to doors) bolts were by far the hardest part of my entire interior restoration. The blue anodized torix bolts strip with the first flick of the socket wrench, and mine weren't even rusty. So, after removing the carpet and repeatedly failing with a heat torch. Penetrating oil and a pipe wrench as recommended on this forum, I had to resort to a few sparks and bolt destruction. I attached a small circular cutting wheel ($1.49) to my drill and made each bolt two sides. The pipe wrench now had something to grab on to, despite the bad angle, and made short work of the obnoxious bolts.
And, since the retractor-side bolts are easily seen when entering the vehicle, and the buckle side is hidden by the seats, I installed the buckle side bolts where the stubborn ones were, and replaced the buckle side bolts with a hardened bolt, with a small copper sleeve to allow the belt to rotate as it does with the unthreaded portion of the original bolts after they are tightened down.

Good luck

 

when installing your storage door carpet pieces, you have to run the nap in the same direction as the rear deck carpet. run your hand across the deck. find which way the nap fluffs up, then reverse to feel it lay down. you need to run the door pieces in the direction that matches the deck.

 

Well I had a bit of luck on that, I got a new rear compartment unit for this past Christmas so that part is done already

 

If I am looking face on at the rear wheel near what I would call 11 o'clock between the body and frame I see the threaded end of a bolt, is this the seat belt bolt I'm looking at? I will start soaking it with some blaster if it is. Also is it safe to use heat on these things?

 

This is the shoulder belt bolt over the rear frame on my 73.
You can see the vapor return line on top of the frame.





Donnie

 

Thanks, that's what I'm looking at and if that's a vapor line I think I'll pass on the torch near it. I'll just keep soaking it and trying to get it to let loose.

 

If any of you guys that have recently swapped carpet have any pictures of the area under the seats the area with the plastic where the lap belt comes out could you post them something appears missing on my car

 

I have these when restoring my 73. Don't know if yours are the same.










Donnie

 

Not exactly the same but the next to last pic showed what I don't find. I guess it must be some type of seatbelt retainer. I know the pieces for the t top straps to hold were missing and another member helped me with that item, I guess there called footmans loops, so the missing piece on mine looks the same as those I guess just bigger. I really hate chasing behind someone else's handy work, who apparently felt it was easier to throw out items then just put it back how it was. I've got all the bolts out but the two holding the retractors which I can see now original carpet underneath as when whoever put the house carpet that's in there now must not have been able to get loose so they just cut large holes in there carpet and set it around the retractor. Oh well the joys of an older car, thanks for the help

 

Corvette seat belt floor guides are the metal pieces that the
belt goes through. I don't know if your model (77?) has them
or not. You really need an AIM (Assembly Instruction Manual) for
your model and you will see how everything goes together.
You can get one from any of the vendors. Got mine from
Corvette Central.


Donnie

 

I have the aim I'll check it tonight for certain. All I know for a fact is I have found holes in the plastic cover that at some point have had screws/bolts threw them as they are indented from them I. The same general area as your picture. Although I keep finding more and more things not done quite right so we'll see. Thanks again for the info

 

I will write this. when I run into the rear seat belt retractors and the bolt being stubborn. I use a 6 point socket and my impact. I am using the impact ONLY to provide a shocking effect to the bolt..and I am not pressing on the trigger to try to get it to come out. All I am doing is shocking it and then I will switch over to my ratchet and see if I can get it to budge even a 'frog hair'. If I have someone who can really look and watch the threaded portion of the bolt move...just that 'frog hair'....then I know I can get it out...and it just takes time loosening it and then tightening it and doing that numerous times and NOT trying to force it excessively.

DUB