Sidepipe mounting question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 849
Likes: 28
From: Baytown Texas
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Sidepipe mounting question
I'm needing to mount them on my 82 to check a few things before I send them out to me Ceramic coated .
My question :
What all comes in the mounting kit ? Lock washers ? Flat washers ? I'm assuming the studs are 3/8" ....but how long ? Is there any rubber washers ?
I know someone has a kit out there or just Installed a set and can help me out ...
TIA
My question :
What all comes in the mounting kit ? Lock washers ? Flat washers ? I'm assuming the studs are 3/8" ....but how long ? Is there any rubber washers ?
I know someone has a kit out there or just Installed a set and can help me out ...
TIA
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
Then you are aware that if you are putting side exhaust headers on....you either need to weld in a bung for an O2 sensor ( if it does not have one)...or do whatever trick you can to bypass it....ad if you are still keeping all emissions equipment and or by passing it also.
And I am sure you are aware that you are deleting the catalytic converter.
DUB
And I am sure you are aware that you are deleting the catalytic converter.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Jul 10, 2015 at 06:30 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 121
From: Kernersville NC
Mount the headers with the gaskets. Make sure you are not hitting the frame anywhere and the side pipes actually will fit where they are supposed to. Mine didn't and required some work by a header fabricator. Now back to the "frame rubbing." If it is rubbing and is sprung against the frame you will need to run them (even with the rubbing) before making any dents for clearance. If it is sprung and you make a dent it will just spring further toward the frame, requiring a bigger dent. By running it first, the heat will make the headers relax and take a set so that any required clearance will be minimum. I just went through this myself and now they are at Jet Hot getting coated. Good luck and happy to give you any help via pm if needed. Also do what Dub said.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 121
From: Kernersville NC
That's good. I tried both major brands and neither fit like my old Hookers. I think the jigs have been adjusted and not for the good. The welding is not as good as the older set either. It took some major cutting and welding to get them right.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
I just installed a set of doug's headers and the only clearance issue I had was with my steeroids rack and pinion. Everything else was fine... mind you that a previous owner already installed headers so I didn't have to do anything new for the A/C mount or alternator.
My kit came with everything I needed, but I didn't realize that when I ordered the frame rail mount kit from summit for nearly $50.... because the frame kit wasn't in the list of items in doug's instructions.
Thankfully I noticed that I did in fact have the frame mount kit and used it before opening the summit package. I returned it but am still out the $20-ish dollars for shipping both ways. Kind of annoying.
In my case, once I put in the muffler inserts, it was clear to me that they are never coming out. Hopefully you get the right inserts that you want! I think I'm happy with mine so far. It has only been a couple of weeks, though.
My kit came with everything I needed, but I didn't realize that when I ordered the frame rail mount kit from summit for nearly $50.... because the frame kit wasn't in the list of items in doug's instructions.
Thankfully I noticed that I did in fact have the frame mount kit and used it before opening the summit package. I returned it but am still out the $20-ish dollars for shipping both ways. Kind of annoying.
In my case, once I put in the muffler inserts, it was clear to me that they are never coming out. Hopefully you get the right inserts that you want! I think I'm happy with mine so far. It has only been a couple of weeks, though.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 849
Likes: 28
From: Baytown Texas
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
I just installed a set of doug's headers and the only clearance issue I had was with my steeroids rack and pinion. Everything else was fine... mind you that a previous owner already installed headers so I didn't have to do anything new for the A/C mount or alternator.
My kit came with everything I needed, but I didn't realize that when I ordered the frame rail mount kit from summit for nearly $50.... because the frame kit wasn't in the list of items in doug's instructions.
Thankfully I noticed that I did in fact have the frame mount kit and used it before opening the summit package. I returned it but am still out the $20-ish dollars for shipping both ways. Kind of annoying.
In my case, once I put in the muffler inserts, it was clear to me that they are never coming out. Hopefully you get the right inserts that you want! I think I'm happy with mine so far. It has only been a couple of weeks, though.
My kit came with everything I needed, but I didn't realize that when I ordered the frame rail mount kit from summit for nearly $50.... because the frame kit wasn't in the list of items in doug's instructions.
Thankfully I noticed that I did in fact have the frame mount kit and used it before opening the summit package. I returned it but am still out the $20-ish dollars for shipping both ways. Kind of annoying.
In my case, once I put in the muffler inserts, it was clear to me that they are never coming out. Hopefully you get the right inserts that you want! I think I'm happy with mine so far. It has only been a couple of weeks, though.
I have vettepack inserts from classic chambered exhaust, they were installed by slamming the side pipe with insert onto the concrete. Definitely not coming out. Which inserts do you have?
BTW I also live in Henderson. =]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
I have the D950 inserts, they're the standard inserts. They are actually a bit louder than I'd like but not bad. I used a 2"x2" block of wood between the insert and the concrete when I slammed my inserts into the pipe. Ruined the wood, but got the inserts in there.
From the Doug's Headers website:
The overcast has been nice lately, I have my C3 out today. I'll probably be at the super run car show in downtown Henderson again this year, last year was fun, but 3 days was a bit long. I might bring the C3 into the show just for that Saturday.
Here is a photo of my pipes right after I mounted them up. I still need to trim the bottom trim piece to fit back in there. I'm in no rush to do that, its hot outside!
From the Doug's Headers website:
Doug's offer three different Muffler inserts to complete the package. The D950 is the standard Glass pack type insert for a throaty sound. D952 is a high flow Glass Pack that is louder with a higher flow. D951 is a reverse flow type muffler for those more concerned with sound control.
Here is a photo of my pipes right after I mounted them up. I still need to trim the bottom trim piece to fit back in there. I'm in no rush to do that, its hot outside!
Last edited by AboveTheLogic; Jul 10, 2015 at 05:55 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
Oh, right.
If I remember correctly, there were 4 t-bolts and locking nuts with rubber washer/bushing things with large flat washers that fit into them. It was not that easy to use, the t-bolts didn't really hold themselves into the frame until you get the nuts started, which was tough to do. I ended up trimming some of the rubber off.
The problem is that there is no way to get to a standard bolt from behind if you don't cut into your frame from the bottom. Perhaps just a slot would work fine for getting a box-end wrench in there.
I don't recall the length of the t-bolts, maybe 2-3 inches. I wished they were longer when I was trying to start the nuts on them, but once I tightened them down and compressed the rubber bushing things, they looked kind of long.
If you look carefully at the picture I posted, you can see the blue rubber piece that I'm talking about.
I'm sure something could be made up, but the kit is probably worth buying. It was a PITA with the kit and I think would be much more so without the kit's t-bolts.
If I remember correctly, there were 4 t-bolts and locking nuts with rubber washer/bushing things with large flat washers that fit into them. It was not that easy to use, the t-bolts didn't really hold themselves into the frame until you get the nuts started, which was tough to do. I ended up trimming some of the rubber off.
The problem is that there is no way to get to a standard bolt from behind if you don't cut into your frame from the bottom. Perhaps just a slot would work fine for getting a box-end wrench in there.
I don't recall the length of the t-bolts, maybe 2-3 inches. I wished they were longer when I was trying to start the nuts on them, but once I tightened them down and compressed the rubber bushing things, they looked kind of long.
If you look carefully at the picture I posted, you can see the blue rubber piece that I'm talking about.
I'm sure something could be made up, but the kit is probably worth buying. It was a PITA with the kit and I think would be much more so without the kit's t-bolts.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
I have the D950 inserts, they're the standard inserts. They are actually a bit louder than I'd like but not bad. I used a 2"x2" block of wood between the insert and the concrete when I slammed my inserts into the pipe. Ruined the wood, but got the inserts in there.
From the Doug's Headers website:
The overcast has been nice lately, I have my C3 out today. I'll probably be at the super run car show in downtown Henderson again this year, last year was fun, but 3 days was a bit long. I might bring the C3 into the show just for that Saturday.
Here is a photo of my pipes right after I mounted them up. I still need to trim the bottom trim piece to fit back in there. I'm in no rush to do that, its hot outside!
From the Doug's Headers website:
The overcast has been nice lately, I have my C3 out today. I'll probably be at the super run car show in downtown Henderson again this year, last year was fun, but 3 days was a bit long. I might bring the C3 into the show just for that Saturday.
Here is a photo of my pipes right after I mounted them up. I still need to trim the bottom trim piece to fit back in there. I'm in no rush to do that, its hot outside!
Regarding the rocker panels, I did not have to trim the driver side, most people also do not. The passenger side had to be modified quite a bit, I used a dermal and it took a lot of trial and error. You will want to take your rear tire off and slide them in from the back. They will slide in even with the side pipes on.
I also had a hell of a time with the t bolts for the side pipes that mount to the frame. Felt like a bubba job trimming the blue rubber but was the only way I could get them on. Makes me feel better you had the same issue.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
Oh, right.
If I remember correctly, there were 4 t-bolts and locking nuts with rubber washer/bushing things with large flat washers that fit into them. It was not that easy to use, the t-bolts didn't really hold themselves into the frame until you get the nuts started, which was tough to do. I ended up trimming some of the rubber off.
The problem is that there is no way to get to a standard bolt from behind if you don't cut into your frame from the bottom. Perhaps just a slot would work fine for getting a box-end wrench in there.
I don't recall the length of the t-bolts, maybe 2-3 inches. I wished they were longer when I was trying to start the nuts on them, but once I tightened them down and compressed the rubber bushing things, they looked kind of long.
If you look carefully at the picture I posted, you can see the blue rubber piece that I'm talking about.
I'm sure something could be made up, but the kit is probably worth buying. It was a PITA with the kit and I think would be much more so without the kit's t-bolts.
If I remember correctly, there were 4 t-bolts and locking nuts with rubber washer/bushing things with large flat washers that fit into them. It was not that easy to use, the t-bolts didn't really hold themselves into the frame until you get the nuts started, which was tough to do. I ended up trimming some of the rubber off.
The problem is that there is no way to get to a standard bolt from behind if you don't cut into your frame from the bottom. Perhaps just a slot would work fine for getting a box-end wrench in there.
I don't recall the length of the t-bolts, maybe 2-3 inches. I wished they were longer when I was trying to start the nuts on them, but once I tightened them down and compressed the rubber bushing things, they looked kind of long.
If you look carefully at the picture I posted, you can see the blue rubber piece that I'm talking about.
I'm sure something could be made up, but the kit is probably worth buying. It was a PITA with the kit and I think would be much more so without the kit's t-bolts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
Yep, same exact issue with trimming the blue rubber thing. I really only had to do it on the rear drivers side mount, the others were okay.
My car is actually sprayed with anthracite grey plasti-dip. It looks better in pictures than it does in person. I hope by the end of next year to have peeled the dip off and actually have sprayed it with decent paint. It needs a bit of body work first.
I haven't tried to put the rockers back on. It just wanted to get it back on the road and set the rockers aside. Also, I want to be able to easily remove the pipes for the car show in September. I plan to enter into the roaring engines competition- I think with straight long tube headers I will get some attention!
I have some mechanical issues to get through, it isn't running quite right. The side pipes seem to flow much better than my original exhaust meaning I'm now trying to find the right jet size and tune for the carb.
Brack, that is something to consider. Changing the exhaust might require a retune of the carb. Also, I think you're on the right track with just ordering the kit. Making something work might be more trouble than it is worth.
My car is actually sprayed with anthracite grey plasti-dip. It looks better in pictures than it does in person. I hope by the end of next year to have peeled the dip off and actually have sprayed it with decent paint. It needs a bit of body work first.
I haven't tried to put the rockers back on. It just wanted to get it back on the road and set the rockers aside. Also, I want to be able to easily remove the pipes for the car show in September. I plan to enter into the roaring engines competition- I think with straight long tube headers I will get some attention!
I have some mechanical issues to get through, it isn't running quite right. The side pipes seem to flow much better than my original exhaust meaning I'm now trying to find the right jet size and tune for the carb.
Brack, that is something to consider. Changing the exhaust might require a retune of the carb. Also, I think you're on the right track with just ordering the kit. Making something work might be more trouble than it is worth.