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The power locks were not working at all and I was also having issues with window regulators, so I've decided to rebuilt the doors completely…windows, motor, regulator, panels, arm rests…the works. I purchased 2 new lock switches, 2 lock motors and 2 new pigtails.
Installed all new lock components, pigtails, switches and motors. Connected the battery back up and immediately blew a fuse. So…yeah….there is a short….but where? I blew 2 fuses trying to find it. I did discover that with the switches not attached to the pigtails, no short happens. Help me track down the short or what's causing the short. Pigtail wires are butted to corresponding colors with the exception of the driver's side. Pink(original) to light blue (replacement) and Purple (original) to black (replacement)
In my experience(not necessarily corvette) most of the problems occur in the wiring conduit between the door and the body where years of opening and closing the door fatigue the wires.
The power locks were not working at all and I was also having issues with window regulators, so I've decided to rebuilt the doors completely…windows, motor, regulator, panels, arm rests…the works. I purchased 2 new lock switches, 2 lock motors and 2 new pigtails.
Installed all new lock components, pigtails, switches and motors. Connected the battery back up and immediately blew a fuse. So…yeah….there is a short….but where? I blew 2 fuses trying to find it. I did discover that with the switches not attached to the pigtails, no short happens. Help me track down the short or what's causing the short. Pigtail wires are butted to corresponding colors with the exception of the driver's side. Pink(original) to light blue (replacement) and Purple (original) to black (replacement)
Ideas?
Not anywhere close to a Guru, but you said it doesn't pop the fuse with switches disconnected. So it should be in the wiring from the switch to the lock solenoid. If it was in the supply to the switch, it would pop all the time.
I'm going to take a 'wild stab' at this and mention that the two leads from the window motor are NOT +12vdc and -ground. Those two leads would be the "hot" leads to the motor: one for "UP" and one for "DOWN". The ground has a separate pigtail that runs behind the motor and down to the bottom portion of the door.
If you ran a ground to one of those 'hot' leads, as soon as you tried to run the motor in that direction, it would blow the fuse.
Well, we know it's between the switch and the windows. Connect one switch and see if the fuse blows. Then you'll know which switch it is. There are short testers that go where the fuse goes. You use a inductive tester over the wire and it has a needle that flicks back and forth as the breaker switches on and off, when it stops flickering you've found the short.
You could also use a low amp, maybe 5 amp circuit breaker, and check voltage along the wire. When you stop getting a voltage reading, the short is between your current position and the last place you checked.
You could also use a low amp, maybe 5 amp circuit breaker, and check voltage along the wire. When you stop getting a voltage reading, the short is between your current position and the last place you checked.
I have had this little gem since the 70's. Mac Tools used to sell them. The circuit breaker attaches to the fuse terminals and the gauss meter points in the direction of the current flow, leading you to the short. When the meter stops moving, you passed the short.
Problem solved!!! The 2 new switches I ordered form Davies were crap!!!! China POS!!!! So, I went to autozone and got the generic kind that has no "Lock" and presto! Works Great! Thanks for all the leads! Really helped to hunt down the problem!!!!