Frame okay or too rusty for a driver?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 110
From: Garland Texas
Just looking at it from a maintenance aspect. it appears to still have the original shocks. Definitely have someone do a hands on inspection of any car you can't look over in person. Unless it was a long time forum member selling here I would not trust 75% of what a seller states.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 780
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
It's so weird...sometimes a car like this gets posted or one not even this bad and people say "run, it's junk" "worthless" this thread seems to say "its not too bad" 
I believe I have pictures in the bats build thread but my Florida car that actually came from Ohio where it sat in the garage for 20 plus years looks so much better than this one,
However,
# 3 bird cage mount was gone rusted out, the rear passenger kick up had a hole,
a bird cage rail hole behind a rusty larger # 2 mount, etc,
Lots of that was unknown and unseen until the body came off,
From the inspect of the # 2's they looked good from the kick panel.
While I never believe any c3 is worthless junk I do believe some have gotten to the point of being parts cars or just not worth it to restore unless free or really cheap or there is sentiment involved.
I believe you could do way better but I do not know how cheap this car is.
I believe I have pictures in the bats build thread but my Florida car that actually came from Ohio where it sat in the garage for 20 plus years looks so much better than this one,
However,
# 3 bird cage mount was gone rusted out, the rear passenger kick up had a hole,
a bird cage rail hole behind a rusty larger # 2 mount, etc,
Lots of that was unknown and unseen until the body came off,
From the inspect of the # 2's they looked good from the kick panel.
While I never believe any c3 is worthless junk I do believe some have gotten to the point of being parts cars or just not worth it to restore unless free or really cheap or there is sentiment involved.
I believe you could do way better but I do not know how cheap this car is.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
What year and price?
Ordinarily it isn't asked here. How much is it going to cost to ship this or any car to germany? It cost me 1250 to ship a wheelchair van from los angeles to philadelphia. No ports, no ships, no customs, no worries about conforming to a different countries motor vehicle standards. So i am guessing 5k or so to get it there. A really clean 74-up can be had for 10k or so. Shipping would make it around 15k. A 74-up bomb would be around 3k. Make it around 8k. So the cheaper the purchase price, the more the shipping effects the purchase price. Unless this car is 72 or older and really under-priced, i think it is a bad idea. Also, and this is ANY car you buy sight-unseen and put on a boat, you must find a third party to inspect and appraise the car so you know you are getting the car that the pictures came from. This car, for example. What if it gets to you and it is WAY rustier than the pictures showed? What would be your recourse? If he defeauded you, he isn't about to reimburse you.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 151
Likes: 2
St. Jude Donor '15
Price is actually discussed with the seller, will end up between 5 and 5.5k.
Shipping to Germany from Miami or Savannah (depends on the company) including pickup from seller, customs and any harbour and administration fees is about 2.3k.
Won't buy a car unseen, so always try to get a forum guy to take a look for me, else I would use the inspection report service of automobileinspections.com for example.
Like to say 'thank you' again to "We Gone" for his great support, Steve is really a nice guy!
Shipping to Germany from Miami or Savannah (depends on the company) including pickup from seller, customs and any harbour and administration fees is about 2.3k.
Won't buy a car unseen, so always try to get a forum guy to take a look for me, else I would use the inspection report service of automobileinspections.com for example.
Like to say 'thank you' again to "We Gone" for his great support, Steve is really a nice guy!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
My anecdote.
In the mid-1980's here in LA, I was in a body shop and they were involved with repairing/restoring a C3 from Florida. At the then issue was the doors. The steel door pan and the mechanisms were very rusted. Apparently the car had been very near the beach and salt water rains had contaminated the door and it's steel over supporting pressed steel structure. I don't know what other salt damage the car had, but the steel parts of the door were severely damaged.
In the mid-1980's here in LA, I was in a body shop and they were involved with repairing/restoring a C3 from Florida. At the then issue was the doors. The steel door pan and the mechanisms were very rusted. Apparently the car had been very near the beach and salt water rains had contaminated the door and it's steel over supporting pressed steel structure. I don't know what other salt damage the car had, but the steel parts of the door were severely damaged.
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Hohenems
Hi Schlicki!
When you buy a car in the states and Import to Germany i would go a different way....it will be cheaper at the end to buy an "expensive" and good car instead of buying cheap and restoring expensive in Germany.
My rules in buying classic cars:
- Buy the best car which you can afford
- Buy in the middle to upper Price Level...normally you get what you pay (dump sellers are rarely - dump buyers are more often)
- take the time and money to make a personal inspection
- take the time till you have the Money which is needed for what you want
- be realistic, how much work can you do yourself, do you have the Tools, the place, the time....
It is a different Story if you would like to buy a car for 1 or 2 years...then Forget all the rules....buy unseen and cheap...drive 2 years...have hopefully much fun, sell it and run :-)
And at the end do not Forget...it is a lot easier to get a TÜV or H-Number if you have a good car.
Greetings from your neighboorhood Austria
Peter
http://members.inode.at/587867/
When you buy a car in the states and Import to Germany i would go a different way....it will be cheaper at the end to buy an "expensive" and good car instead of buying cheap and restoring expensive in Germany.
My rules in buying classic cars:
- Buy the best car which you can afford
- Buy in the middle to upper Price Level...normally you get what you pay (dump sellers are rarely - dump buyers are more often)
- take the time and money to make a personal inspection
- take the time till you have the Money which is needed for what you want
- be realistic, how much work can you do yourself, do you have the Tools, the place, the time....
It is a different Story if you would like to buy a car for 1 or 2 years...then Forget all the rules....buy unseen and cheap...drive 2 years...have hopefully much fun, sell it and run :-)
And at the end do not Forget...it is a lot easier to get a TÜV or H-Number if you have a good car.
Greetings from your neighboorhood Austria
Peter
http://members.inode.at/587867/