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Personally, that doesn't look too bad. But it doesn't tell you the whole story. Pull one of the kick panels in the cabin and look at the frame/cage there - how much rust, if any, is there? Is there any signs of rust around the windshield (bubbled paint, strange patches)?
Take a good look around the steering, and control arm mounts for any cracking. Poke around the areas of heaviest rust and make sure the metal is still solid. How are the suspension bushings and brakes?
Put a white sheet under the dash as far up to the dash board as you can on both the driver side and passenger side. Then slam both doors about 20 times each. If a bunch of rust lands in your white sheet then you have issues there as well.
That's a fairly large amount of rust(not just surface rust, but deep pitting) on the rear suspension and driveline parts. Remove the access panels for the #3 body bolts and check the condition there, and the end plate of the frame rail in the same area. Also carefully check the kick-up area of the frame. I hate to say it, but I think that at a minimum you'll have to lift the body, clean and paint the frame and rebuild the rear end, in order to make this a dependable and safe car. And while you're at it, replace the front bushings and find out where all that oil is coming from.
That's a fairly large amount of rust(not just surface rust, but deep pitting) on the rear suspension and driveline parts. Remove the access panels for the #3 body bolts and check the condition there, and the end plate of the frame rail in the same area. Also carefully check the kick-up area of the frame. I hate to say it, but I think that at a minimum you'll have to lift the body, clean and paint the frame and rebuild the rear end, in order to make this a dependable and safe car. And while you're at it, replace the front bushings and find out where all that oil is coming from.
Totally agree on what jnb5101 said as well as the others.
R
With Florida's heat and humidity, rust is always happening. It is more severe (MUCH) if car is located near the coast and subject to any salt spray. HOWEVER, a car from the north, if used as a daily driver during the winter at anytime during its life, is in far more jeopardy. Salt slush will accumulate in the corners between the frame rails and the cross member behind the doors, and will sit on the gusset strengthening this joint and completely destroy this area.
The photos you posted do not look too bad, though non of them show a good view of the gusset area I mentioned above.
One other thing to consider while evaluating this car is the care used to maintain it, which I would rate a fail. One of the rear struts, controlling the rear camber, has been badly bent and warped. This is typically done by idiots taking a shortcut to adjust the camber - they heat the rod with a torch and bend it to pull the bottom of the wheel in. Anyone who would do this, drive a C3 with this done to it, or offer it for sale is not someone whom I would trust.
if you pay the right price, no problem.. nothing looks rusted thru.. but pay attention to these other posts. rusty cars do sell, but deeply discounted. you really gotta pay for a no rust car.
If you have the tools, motivation and time, it could be an interesting project.
It won't save you money tho. The rear end needs to be rebuilt...
How is the interior?
If my experience can help you decide, here it goes:
Mine looks like your photos of the rear end...
I had to change the u-joints not too long ago and breaking through the rust has been a lot of work. One side took me days of soaking, hitting, heating etc... 40 years of rust... Just to remove the half shaft.
The other side had been changed before and still had grease: 10 min...
At this stage I thought: never again! I will buy a more expensive and in better condition car next time, I should have waited...
The amount of scale that the pictures show warrant a closer inspection of the rear kickups, trailing arm pockets, radiator support and behind the kick panels. I wouldn't be surprised if you find that this car has serious rust issues.
Hi S,
I don't think I'd want to have the car in your pictures in Germany with it needing what is pretty obvious in the pictures, but also what's going to be needed that you can't see at this point.
Are you prepared for that undertaking both financially and in the level your abilities?
Be careful what you step into!
Regards,
Alan
Hi S,
I don't think I'd want to have the car in your pictures in Germany with it needing what is pretty obvious in the pictures, but also what's going to be needed that you can't see at this point.
Are you prepared for that undertaking both financially and in your abilities?
Be careful what you step into!
Regards,
Alan
I would not buy a car with that level and extent of rust plus obvious lack of maintenance over a long period of time. Be it that one or a cleaner one your shipping costs and VAT will be the same. Keep looking.
Just looking at it from a maintenance aspect. it appears to still have the original shocks. Definitely have someone do a hands on inspection of any car you can't look over in person. Unless it was a long time forum member selling here I would not trust 75% of what a seller states.
You won't have to wait two years, it needs too much work now.
You may pay more money but find yourself a better car than this one. Besides what everyone else has pointed out, I see hand made brake lines. With so many vendors in Florida they could have easily bought correct lines that fit the car. I know this doesn't mean much but it tells me a lot about the owner and who has been working on it.
The one thing I find amazing is the car didn't fall off the lift. The person that set the lift has no idea how to raise a vette.
Mike