RH Lower Dash Differences
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
RH Lower Dash Differences
Does anyone know what the physical difference(s) are between a 70 and a 71-76 right hand lower dash pad?
I believe they interface correctly but I'd like to know what the actual difference is
Thanks
M
I believe they interface correctly but I'd like to know what the actual difference is
Thanks
M
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 258
From: Dublin Ohio
RH Lower Dash Differences
Is it 68 no pocket, 69 pocket no crease or stitching around pocket, 70 has a crease no stitching around the pocket and 71- has crease and visible stitching around pocket?
Sorry that's a question trying to answer a question.
Sorry that's a question trying to answer a question.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
68 and 69 are clear (no pocket then no crease) I just couldn't make out what the 70 to 71-76 difference was in the pictures I could find.
Crease with no stitching around the pocket sound good to me
Thanks
M
Crease with no stitching around the pocket sound good to me
Thanks
M
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Thanks guys
I'm trying to fit my dash back together and the passenger side never fit very well where it meets the shifter console. It's not the original pad (I replaced it after an incident with a screwdriver and the original) with one from a 73 (I think)
I was just checking to see if there was a design change at some point and noticed that they listed the 71 - 77 as the same but a different 70 so as usual I got sidetracked into wondering what that difference was...
Ah well, off I go with the heat gun to see if I can re-shape that tail some
M
I'm trying to fit my dash back together and the passenger side never fit very well where it meets the shifter console. It's not the original pad (I replaced it after an incident with a screwdriver and the original) with one from a 73 (I think)
I was just checking to see if there was a design change at some point and noticed that they listed the 71 - 77 as the same but a different 70 so as usual I got sidetracked into wondering what that difference was...
Ah well, off I go with the heat gun to see if I can re-shape that tail some
M
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I just posted this to someone else in a different thread.... The lower pads never fit perfect to the console and most of the time the worst pad was the passenger side. You can mess with it some but you'll never get it to fit perfect.
Below is picture of two very original cars that both have original dash pads. The tan one is my own car.. and you can see the right pad is close but it's still not mated up and there really isn't any way to adjust this fit.
Below is picture of two very original cars that both have original dash pads. The tan one is my own car.. and you can see the right pad is close but it's still not mated up and there really isn't any way to adjust this fit.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Mine is close to the right picture you show and it just bugs me 
I've been able to push it into place but there's nothing trying to hold it there of course.
Might be Bubba time
M
I've been able to push it into place but there's nothing trying to hold it there of course.
Might be Bubba time
M
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Heat it.. but you'd have to do it from the inside edge... and then bend the abs sub. It's the only way... and 1/2 the reason my 72 is so close in the pic on the left....
Two ways to do this... one is a heat gun which will probably not work because the sub is pretty thick... but you can try it.
Second way is a bit more tricky but you'd have to be a warrior and not get carried away. Using a soldering iron, you can use it to run a line on the backside and pull the corner inward a bit... You'll also have to hold it until it cools down.... It works but if you go too far and too hard you'll snap it or melt the outer skin.... food for thought though..
third choice involved beer...
Ernie
Two ways to do this... one is a heat gun which will probably not work because the sub is pretty thick... but you can try it.
Second way is a bit more tricky but you'd have to be a warrior and not get carried away. Using a soldering iron, you can use it to run a line on the backside and pull the corner inward a bit... You'll also have to hold it until it cools down.... It works but if you go too far and too hard you'll snap it or melt the outer skin.... food for thought though..
third choice involved beer...
Ernie
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Thanks Ernie
I was really hoping to use duct-tape somehow but I went at it before supper with a heat gun from the back.
I clamped it to the bench and used a couple of spring clamps to load the corner while I heated it up until it would stay where I guestimated I needed it (about 5/16 over) and then let it cool.
I just test fitted it into place before I came in
Not perfect but I think I can live with that.
Side is close but I don't think I can change anything there, I'll try the cover and see how it looks.
Tomorrow I'll fit the center gauge cluster and see if anything changes but I think it'll be OK
M
I was really hoping to use duct-tape somehow but I went at it before supper with a heat gun from the back.
I clamped it to the bench and used a couple of spring clamps to load the corner while I heated it up until it would stay where I guestimated I needed it (about 5/16 over) and then let it cool.
I just test fitted it into place before I came in
Not perfect but I think I can live with that.
Side is close but I don't think I can change anything there, I'll try the cover and see how it looks.
Tomorrow I'll fit the center gauge cluster and see if anything changes but I think it'll be OK
M
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I spoke too soon
And the center gauge bezel pushes it back out, still better than it was but not in alignment anymore
The tail needs to be curved inwards right at the end to follow the bezel and it is right at the thick part so there's no way it wants to bend in the right spot.
The little alignment tab is missing on the center console and it looks like the lower dash is meant to be pushed out by that tab, not pulled it
Back to the duct tape
M
And the center gauge bezel pushes it back out, still better than it was but not in alignment anymore
The tail needs to be curved inwards right at the end to follow the bezel and it is right at the thick part so there's no way it wants to bend in the right spot.
The little alignment tab is missing on the center console and it looks like the lower dash is meant to be pushed out by that tab, not pulled it
Back to the duct tape
M
