C3 seat frame reinforcement
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11
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C3 seat frame reinforcement
Has anyone installed the seat frame reinforcement plate from Corvette Central part number 483018? I have asked both Corvette Central and Eckers if they would send me the installation instructions prior to ordering the part. If you have installed this do you need to remove the seat and the bottom seat cover?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
DIY'er way with no desire to attempt to repair the frame if it is broken and requiring straightening and welding and re-painting:
The seat has to come out...you have to remove the bottom frame rear stop bolts and the two bolts that hold the tilt bracket. Then un-do the seat cover. Slide this part in and get the four bolts you removed started in place...secure the cover again..tighten up the bolts. rear portion of the seat cover to slide the new part in.
The way I do it...which is much more involved:
I verify that when the seat is out...the rubber stops on the SEAT BACK FRAME are aligning up and contacting the LOWER SEAT frame bolts CORRECTLY...making sure they contact evenly and width as much surface are of both touching each other.
Once both frames match up. I remove and rework/repair the set tracks so they work smoothly if needed. I separate the seat frames and remove the bottom cushion all the way so I can media blast the frame and do whatever repair welding I need to do and then weld in the reinforcement plate. Then I apply POR-15...let it dry and either put on new covers and foams or re-install the old seat bottom cushion...depending on the seat bottom springs being in good condition.
The seat bottom frames are really.....weak....and very few I have worked on did not show the years of use and the areas where they like to constantly fail. DO NOT be surprised when you go to remove the bottom frame bolts...that they can be rusted in place. The spot welded in square stove nuts can break away easily if you are too aggressive with them when you are trying to remove them For me.... I have dealt with this issue many times and I cut out the bolts and put in new bolts...but..I have the tools to do this rather quickly. So ..spending the time with penetrating oil...soaking parts for days...for me is a waste of time.
DUB
The seat has to come out...you have to remove the bottom frame rear stop bolts and the two bolts that hold the tilt bracket. Then un-do the seat cover. Slide this part in and get the four bolts you removed started in place...secure the cover again..tighten up the bolts. rear portion of the seat cover to slide the new part in.
The way I do it...which is much more involved:
I verify that when the seat is out...the rubber stops on the SEAT BACK FRAME are aligning up and contacting the LOWER SEAT frame bolts CORRECTLY...making sure they contact evenly and width as much surface are of both touching each other.
Once both frames match up. I remove and rework/repair the set tracks so they work smoothly if needed. I separate the seat frames and remove the bottom cushion all the way so I can media blast the frame and do whatever repair welding I need to do and then weld in the reinforcement plate. Then I apply POR-15...let it dry and either put on new covers and foams or re-install the old seat bottom cushion...depending on the seat bottom springs being in good condition.
The seat bottom frames are really.....weak....and very few I have worked on did not show the years of use and the areas where they like to constantly fail. DO NOT be surprised when you go to remove the bottom frame bolts...that they can be rusted in place. The spot welded in square stove nuts can break away easily if you are too aggressive with them when you are trying to remove them For me.... I have dealt with this issue many times and I cut out the bolts and put in new bolts...but..I have the tools to do this rather quickly. So ..spending the time with penetrating oil...soaking parts for days...for me is a waste of time.
DUB
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 930
Likes: 333
From: Sherrills Ford North Carolina
Works for me...
DIY'er way with no desire to attempt to repair the frame if it is broken and requiring straightening and welding and re-painting:
The seat has to come out...you have to remove the bottom frame rear stop bolts and the two bolts that hold the tilt bracket. Then un-do the seat cover. Slide this part in and get the four bolts you removed started in place...secure the cover again..tighten up the bolts. rear portion of the seat cover to slide the new part in.
The way I do it...which is much more involved:
I verify that when the seat is out...the rubber stops on the SEAT BACK FRAME are aligning up and contacting the LOWER SEAT frame bolts CORRECTLY...making sure they contact evenly and width as much surface are of both touching each other.
Once both frames match up. I remove and rework/repair the set tracks so they work smoothly if needed. I separate the seat frames and remove the bottom cushion all the way so I can media blast the frame and do whatever repair welding I need to do and then weld in the reinforcement plate. Then I apply POR-15...let it dry and either put on new covers and foams or re-install the old seat bottom cushion...depending on the seat bottom springs being in good condition.
The seat bottom frames are really.....weak....and very few I have worked on did not show the years of use and the areas where they like to constantly fail. DO NOT be surprised when you go to remove the bottom frame bolts...that they can be rusted in place. The spot welded in square stove nuts can break away easily if you are too aggressive with them when you are trying to remove them For me.... I have dealt with this issue many times and I cut out the bolts and put in new bolts...but..I have the tools to do this rather quickly. So ..spending the time with penetrating oil...soaking parts for days...for me is a waste of time.
DUB
The seat has to come out...you have to remove the bottom frame rear stop bolts and the two bolts that hold the tilt bracket. Then un-do the seat cover. Slide this part in and get the four bolts you removed started in place...secure the cover again..tighten up the bolts. rear portion of the seat cover to slide the new part in.
The way I do it...which is much more involved:
I verify that when the seat is out...the rubber stops on the SEAT BACK FRAME are aligning up and contacting the LOWER SEAT frame bolts CORRECTLY...making sure they contact evenly and width as much surface are of both touching each other.
Once both frames match up. I remove and rework/repair the set tracks so they work smoothly if needed. I separate the seat frames and remove the bottom cushion all the way so I can media blast the frame and do whatever repair welding I need to do and then weld in the reinforcement plate. Then I apply POR-15...let it dry and either put on new covers and foams or re-install the old seat bottom cushion...depending on the seat bottom springs being in good condition.
The seat bottom frames are really.....weak....and very few I have worked on did not show the years of use and the areas where they like to constantly fail. DO NOT be surprised when you go to remove the bottom frame bolts...that they can be rusted in place. The spot welded in square stove nuts can break away easily if you are too aggressive with them when you are trying to remove them For me.... I have dealt with this issue many times and I cut out the bolts and put in new bolts...but..I have the tools to do this rather quickly. So ..spending the time with penetrating oil...soaking parts for days...for me is a waste of time.
DUB
I want to paint my buckets anyway... But trying to find an easy way to remove the foam seats. Looks like you need to get some type of tool under the foam and un clip them.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 930
Likes: 333
From: Sherrills Ford North Carolina
Nice....
Thanks for the details Paul..
Looks like a good fix that I'll do when I do my seats next month. Saving your pics for guidance.
Still need to find what tool is needed to separate the seat from the buckets.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Getting the seat foams and covers out is easy...getting the SEAT BACK cushion and cover back in and caged does take a tool that I made myself.
The SEAT BOTTOM is a little bit of a problem getting the rear portion to lock in...but nothing like the upper cushion...even with the tool.
DUB
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
You are correct: my pics are not applicable to a 1979. I should have mentioned that. I drove a 1979 for many years. The tool I used for the upper cushion is a drum brake spring installation tool with a notch on the end.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 930
Likes: 333
From: Sherrills Ford North Carolina
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 930
Likes: 333
From: Sherrills Ford North Carolina
thanks Dub.
The description I wrote does not apply to your 'bucket' style seats.
Getting the seat foams and covers out is easy...getting the SEAT BACK cushion and cover back in and caged does take a tool that I made myself.
The SEAT BOTTOM is a little bit of a problem getting the rear portion to lock in...but nothing like the upper cushion...even with the tool.
DUB
Getting the seat foams and covers out is easy...getting the SEAT BACK cushion and cover back in and caged does take a tool that I made myself.
The SEAT BOTTOM is a little bit of a problem getting the rear portion to lock in...but nothing like the upper cushion...even with the tool.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Getting the covers/foam out of the buckets is easy. No tools needed. Just some brute force/effort.
NOW...my tool is not forked at the end...the one I made is angle notched from the side...so you can slide the tool onto the wire...push the cover assembly into the seat bucket...push down to get the wire and seat assembly into the bucket and then pull the tool back so the wire clips into the clip...then....twist the tool 90 degrees to release it..and VOILA!
DUB
NOW...my tool is not forked at the end...the one I made is angle notched from the side...so you can slide the tool onto the wire...push the cover assembly into the seat bucket...push down to get the wire and seat assembly into the bucket and then pull the tool back so the wire clips into the clip...then....twist the tool 90 degrees to release it..and VOILA!
DUB
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 930
Likes: 333
From: Sherrills Ford North Carolina
sure...sure,,,,
Getting the covers/foam out of the buckets is easy. No tools needed. Just some brute force/effort.
NOW...my tool is not forked at the end...the one I made is angle notched from the side...so you can slide the tool onto the wire...push the cover assembly into the seat bucket...push down to get the wire and seat assembly into the bucket and then pull the tool back so the wire clips into the clip...then....twist the tool 90 degrees to release it..and VOILA!
DUB
NOW...my tool is not forked at the end...the one I made is angle notched from the side...so you can slide the tool onto the wire...push the cover assembly into the seat bucket...push down to get the wire and seat assembly into the bucket and then pull the tool back so the wire clips into the clip...then....twist the tool 90 degrees to release it..and VOILA!
DUB