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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 03:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rcread
It goes in the upper right in place of the idler pulley.
Ok I went to a salvage yard today and looked at several that were from a Cadillac to a Caprice. They looked the same but they have the smog pump on the bottom right (passenger) where as the picture shows another idler. And another thing I'm not sure about is where the C3 fuel lines come up behind the factory bracket will there be room for the newer style? Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread. That was my last question.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 04:33 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by alconk
Ok I went to a salvage yard today and looked at several that were from a Cadillac to a Caprice. They looked the same but they have the smog pump on the bottom right (passenger) where as the picture shows another idler. And another thing I'm not sure about is where the C3 fuel lines come up behind the factory bracket will there be room for the newer style? Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread. That was my last question.
I bent my own fuel line, as shown here.



If you look at a serpentine from a 1990 Camaro, the smog pump will be on the driver's side. I don't have a smog pump, but if I did, it would go under the alternator.


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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Ok I went to a salvage yard today and looked at several that were from a Cadillac to a Caprice. They looked the same but they have the smog pump on the bottom right (passenger) where as the picture shows another idler. And another thing I'm not sure about is where the C3 fuel lines come up behind the factory bracket will there be room for the newer style? Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread. That was my last question.
Good questions! Feel free to ask more. Actually, there are two styles of the serpentine belt system. There's one for the trucks (not sure about the Cadillacs) and one for the cars. The one for the trucks has a higher driver's side bracket, than the car, even though they look almost exactly the same!

About the fuel line, I ended up, running it through the brackets. Note how the heater hose is handled, with solid lines. You can run it behind the brackets, but this just looked better. We used the small metal in-line Holley Fuel Filter, as well.

For the power steering pump, you're going to use the return line off've the Caprice and just use a piece of pipe to bend it out of the way.






Custom bent fuel line.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 04:50 PM
  #24  
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Admittedly, RC's set up would work better, as his has the AC...
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #25  
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When using a good electric puller setup do I still need the seals around the radiator?
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 05:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Heus
When using a good electric puller setup do I still need the seals around the radiator?
Absolutely! Because without good seals, the air moves through the path of least resistance and will pull the majority of the air through the gaps around the side, instead of through the radiator.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 07:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by F22
Good questions! Feel free to ask more. Actually, there are two styles of the serpentine belt system. There's one for the trucks (not sure about the Cadillacs) and one for the cars. The one for the trucks has a higher driver's side bracket, than the car, even though they look almost exactly the same!

About the fuel line, I ended up, running it through the brackets. Note how the heater hose is handled, with solid lines. You can run it behind the brackets, but this just looked better. We used the small metal in-line Holley Fuel Filter, as well.

For the power steering pump, you're going to use the return line off've the Caprice and just use a piece of pipe to bend it out of the way.






Custom bent fuel line.
Wow that's a work of art! I forgot about the heater core line. Hmm.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 08:54 PM
  #28  
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Im running a 454 in my 1973 convertible, and never go over 210 degrees in 110 degree day, in traffic, with the ac on. Totally worth it.
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 12:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Guess I got lucky twice. I have two sets of those spal-like set ups, both are performing fine. Haven't had to mod the other set yet. I suspect the angle that the corvette radiator sits at is a contributing factor to the failure of it's fan's drive mech.
Saw the fans you posted being sold by Jegs. $400.00 +
Second 11' dual spal-likes I actually got for $79 at Newegg. Don't know why they even had them. Haven't seen them there since.
I paid under 300 shipped, I considered camaro dual fans that are about 35 bucks in the bone yard, the cost wasn't my only concerns.
it's average for aftermarket but covers all the core and moves 4000 cfm of air.
a couple years ago I got caught up and paid extra for a name brand radiator, that extra is not worth it to me I have seen way too much great feedback from the import radiators.

I am hung up on wasting any of the radiator core as in not having shroud over it.

I looked long and hard at the fake spals, I still might buy a set to do some testing with, the things that I didn't like was the amount of radiator they leave wasted and the lower cfm they move, not all the fake spals are made at all well and I like adding aftermarket parts I do not like wasting time fixing low end crap or wondering when it will fail.

Something else that can be hard on the drive of a electric fan is the spike at start up, both the spike in amps and the slam to the fan blade from the motor shaft,
In my case I didn't want to run one fan for low and two for high the reason is air will take the path of least resistance and if one fan is off the on fan with try to pull air through the off fans hole rather than pull it through the radiator.

I used 3 relays to run the fans in series for low speed both on then parallel for high speed both on, this removes any air being pulled from the off fans hole it also smoothes out the spikes both in amps and jolts to drive of the fan.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #30  
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I am hung up on wasting any of the radiator core as in not having shroud over it.
I look at it this way; the fans only need to cover what is necessary to cool the engine at idle and very low speeds (under 25 mph in my case), otherwise the radiator is being cooled by ram air. Ram air will go through the radiator in the area covered by the fans and the area not covered by the fans, thus doing it's job of cooling the radiator.
Additionally when the A/C is running the fans are running. At some unknown forward speed I speculate that the ram air speed through the radiator may exceed the ability of the fans to pull air through.
At that point the fans become a potential obstruction to air flow. Although there are flaps to let air through around the fans. If this occurs then airflow in the area covered by the fans could restrict airflow. Then it becomes beneficial to have some area of the radiator not covered by the fans to allow unrestricted flow through those areas.

Something else that can be hard on the drive of a electric fan is the spike at start up, both the spike in amps and the slam to the fan blade from the motor shaft,
I agree. I believe that the drive mechanism should be designed to handle this since it is the most likely scenario for it's operation.

In my case I didn't want to run one fan for low and two for high the reason is air will take the path of least resistance and if one fan is off the on fan with try to pull air through the off fans hole rather than pull it through the radiator.
I agree. That's a likely scenario if only one fan is run at a time.

I used 3 relays to run the fans in series for low speed both on then parallel for high speed both on, this removes any air being pulled from the off fans hole it also smoothes out the spikes both in amps and jolts to drive of the fan.
Sounds like a good way to do it especially for noise considerations.
I have mine either on or off, nothing in between. My only consideration was to reduce run time of the fans to a minimum with A/C off and max cooling at any other time.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
I look at it this way; the fans only need to cover what is necessary to cool the engine at idle and very low speeds (under 25 mph in my case), otherwise the radiator is being cooled by ram air. Ram air will go through the radiator in the area covered by the fans and the area not covered by the fans, thus doing it's job of cooling the radiator.

I look at it this way,
saying the fans cover "enough" when some core isn't covered is how people who sell fans with small or no shrouds that do not cover the full core try to convince buyers that wasted cooling ability of the radiator at idle is okay.
I am not concerned with the ram air vehicle moving cooling,
My concern is here in Florida in the 100 plus degree stuck in traffic cooling and that is where I want as much of my expensive radiator core covered, lots of guys are happy with some core open and wasted I support and respect them on that I hope they respect that I want to take full advantage of my core.


Additionally when the A/C is running the fans are running. At some unknown forward speed I speculate that the ram air speed through the radiator may exceed the ability of the fans to pull air through.
At that point the fans become a potential obstruction to air flow. Although there are flaps to let air through around the fans. If this occurs then airflow in the area covered by the fans could restrict airflow. Then it becomes beneficial to have some area of the radiator not covered by the fans to allow unrestricted flow through those areas.

two different subjects there,
I do not support the fans being ran at speeds where ram air should be working,
To me that is old school thinking to run the fans at speed just because the ac is on, if the ac needs more cooling it will get it by raising coolant temps and kicking the fans on.
Of course the fan blades themselves are the biggest restriction of ram air flow in my case at speeds when the fans stop my shroud has nice trap doors to allow extra air flow ( if needed but not at the cost of wasting core at idle ) , in my case with my fans and shroud ram air flow will not suffer,



I agree. I believe that the drive mechanism should be designed to handle this since it is the most likely scenario for it's operation.

The sad fact is too many clones fail quickly or partly fail where cooling suffers.



I agree. That's a likely scenario if only one fan is run at a time.

It will happen but might not be bad enough to matter but to me taking the chance was wasting radiator.

Sounds like a good way to do it especially for noise considerations.
I have mine either on or off, nothing in between. My only consideration was to reduce run time of the fans to a minimum with A/C off and max cooling at any other time.
I guess it's some trade off and some personal taste,
Straight blades make more noise than curved,

After my car gets up to operating temps at low speeds or idle it will need "some" fan/fans running and most others running electric fans are in that boat,

I will have to think about it and do some testing but I do not believe that my fans will be on low more than a person running their fans one at a time,
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 12:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rastafford3164
But that's just me. Different strokes for different folks.

i tried a 16" e-fan and bubba'd it on the rad and left the stock shroud,
it ran warmer than stock, i could not get the shroud off


so i put the stock fan back in....

i did feel a few ponies extra tho

the po killed the front dam and i took it off, so my RAM air a compromised

the stock set up did not care, about no RAM


but the 16" stock 1982 "aux fan only" experiment i did made it boil over even driving at 50 mph it was not enough

Last edited by slickfx3; Sep 23, 2015 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 01:24 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
i tried a 16" e-fan and bubba'd it on the rad and left the stock shroud,
it ran warmer than stock, i could not get the shroud off


so i put the stock fan back in....

i did feel a few ponies extra tho

the po killed the front dam and i took it off, so my RAM air a compromised

the stock set up did not care, about no RAM


but the 16" stock 1982 "aux fan only" experiment i did made it boil over even driving at 50 mph it was not enough
Well your experiment proved that a poorly thought out and mucked up fan set up is far worse than good working stock, no shocker there....
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
Well your experiment proved that a poorly thought out and mucked up fan set up is far worse than good working stock, no shocker there....
i deserve the ridicule
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 04:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
i deserve the ridicule
Tone was lost in type...no ridicule meant from me on the contrary... I praise you for at least trying something out and seeing what would happen I love testing ideas...many fail.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
i deserve the ridicule
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 05:24 PM
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saying the fans cover "enough"
Don't go misquoting me now. What I said was the amount that is necessary.
If your situation dictates some different amount then what is necessary still applies, it's just different than what is necessary for me. Depends on your scenario.

To me that is old school thinking to run the fans at speed just because the ac is on, if the ac needs more cooling it will get it by raising coolant temps and kicking the fans on.
The deal here is that the A/C condenser is transferring considerable heat to the air going to the radiator in it's job to heat exchange for cabin cooling. It gets seriously hot. With heat comes pressure. Pressures rise considerably in the A/C system. Maybe even high enough to trip the high pressure protection and disengage the compressor clutch.
Any assistance I can give it to make it more efficient and thereby provide me with better A/C, I will do. I don't know at what speed the A/C condenser is receiving sufficient ram air to keep it relatively cool.
So I run the fans. No harm in doing so.
Some harm is not doing so, as there is a considerable delay in the radiator temps responding and turning on the fans in response to the additional heat of the A/C heat exchanger.
Heat exchanger temps rise higher and A/C efficiency is reduced.

Not saying it's how it should or needs to be done, just saying I didn't do it that way on a whim.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Sep 23, 2015 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 08:03 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Don't go misquoting me now. What I said was the amount that is necessary.
If your situation dictates some different amount then what is necessary still applies, it's just different than what is necessary for me. Depends on your scenario.

not misquoting you in any purpose way but you are playing with words, saying not covering all of of the core because it's not nesessary is still wasting core and in my case I will not waste all the extra $$$ I paid for that radiator and it's core, if you feel you are getting your moneys worth leaving some core wasted and calling that wasted part "unnecessary" then go with it....

The deal here is that the A/C condenser is transferring considerable heat to the air going to the radiator in it's job to heat exchange for cabin cooling. It gets seriously hot. With heat comes pressure. Pressures rise considerably in the A/C system. Maybe even high enough to trip the high pressure protection and disengage the compressor clutch.
Any assistance I can give it to make it more efficient and thereby provide me with better A/C, I will do. I don't know at what speed the A/C condenser is receiving sufficient ram air to keep it relatively cool.
So I run the fans. No harm in doing so.
Some harm is not doing so, as there is a considerable delay in the radiator temps responding and turning on the fans in response to the additional heat of the A/C heat exchanger.
Heat exchanger temps rise higher and A/C efficiency is reduced.

Not saying it's how it should or needs to be done, just saying I didn't do it that way on a whim.
I never said you build on a whim, neither do I, I have heard all the debates on this subject but they is no good reason to have the fans running at ram air speeds unless the cooling system in some way needing that band aid, there shouldnt be a "considerable" delay for the temp sensors to turn on the fans if extra air is needed with ac then work it out, if you like the fans always on then run it that way....
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 06:06 PM
  #39  
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Bats... you planning to run the grill fully open (no front license plate bracket)? If so, wouldn`t that help get more air in?
(Just curious... `cause that`s my plan!)
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by oldgto
Bats... you planning to run the grill fully open (no front license plate bracket)? If so, wouldn`t that help get more air in?
(Just curious... `cause that`s my plan!)
Right, no front plate because well they are fugly, in my case the 69 clip will tilt so I will test the ram air cooling at speeds to see if creative sealing is needed, with the radiator I have and mild 454 I do not believe it will be an issue as it wasnt an issue with the old crap radiator and now I have the bad boy dewitts.

I am trying to move things along faster in getting the car going so the 69 clip will be the default clip and the mako will be getting it's kinks worked out so at some point I can do the swap out clips idea.

On a side note I have had a lot of c3's and that c4
I was always lucky with cooling, my 66 ran a fiero electric fan and the only time it ran hot was with a worn out radiator.
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