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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 02:16 AM
  #41  
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Are electric fans worth it? I think so, but it doesn't end there. Radiator technology has improved, as well as the materials used in the newer designs tends to shed heat much better than the radiators our cars originally had. You'll probably have to increase your alternators output, or at least make sure it can keep up with the fans.

This all said, you don't have to lay down a cool grand to do it, I assure you, but that's another story. Good luck!


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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 03:47 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Patro46
Are electric fans worth it? I think so, but it doesn't end there. Radiator technology has improved, as well as the materials used in the newer designs tends to shed heat much better than the radiators our cars originally had. You'll probably have to increase your alternators output, or at least make sure it can keep up with the fans.


This all said, you don't have to lay down a cool grand to do it, I assure you, but that's another story. Good luck!

It's very odd and ironically paradoxical to me that some people go to great extremes to increase hp, handling, and all kinds of other areas in our antiquated c3's yet when it comes to the cooling systems so many want to stick their head in the sand or lemming it,

I have been dissed time and again for researching the cooling systems in these cars and thinking outside the box and beyond stock, I take in the information that XXX set up works for this cat or that but I can also run with that info and design what I desire for me, it should not insult anyone, but it sadly does.

I do not believe that the stock c3 alternator will keep up with most aftermarket electric fans especially at night with lights on and if you are running AC or heat,
But by the time a builder is thinking better cooling systems they already upgraded the electrical systems or plan to,

I sure do not buy into a top shelf cooling systems has to cost the tall dollars some on here boast of paying,
I have seen too many c3's with non stock engines running ac etc running at proper operating temps with no overheating issues with the taboo to say it here import aluminum radiator and fake dual 11 spals,

Trust me I kick myself daily for wasting many 100's more than I had to pay for the same cooling ability just because of the name attached to it.

It the electric fan "worth it" I believe the better answer than a cut and dry yes or no is, yes, but only to some builders.

Lets face it a die hard purist isn't even allowed to run radial tires on some c3's so they are stuck with factory, ( lame, some feel the need to bash things they cant have ) and in most cases a good working factory cooling system is okay and will do the job,

The electric cooling fan system shines when we modders want a bit "better" set up, we desire better cooling, and higher output alternators, more hp better handling etc etc, for us not only is it "worth it" it's almost a must.
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #43  
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Update: I've spent last 2 days installing a Dewitts radiator. I stayed with the factor clutch fan but if I knew what a pain that shroud would be I would have went electric. It might not have been so bad if not for the trans cooler hookups.
I had a problem with high temps (220 ish) at idle and around town with old radiator. went for a drive and let her idle for 30 mins in driveway and she only got to 170. Been fighting this for over a year. I think I just won with a KO.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 08:22 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
Update: I've spent last 2 days installing a Dewitts radiator. I stayed with the factor clutch fan but if I knew what a pain that shroud would be I would have went electric. It might not have been so bad if not for the trans cooler hookups.
I had a problem with high temps (220 ish) at idle and around town with old radiator. went for a drive and let her idle for 30 mins in driveway and she only got to 170. Been fighting this for over a year. I think I just won with a KO.
Yep, the stock shroud can be a nightmare,
I fully believe that any "new" better radiator IE dewitts becool champion etc will give such results with lower temps....
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:22 AM
  #45  
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I fully believe that any "new" better radiator IE dewitts becool champion etc will give such results with lower temps.
I agree. Gonna watch her close next few days and if I still have that idle temp creep will be looking into a 7 blade fan. I've got the 5 blade now with a new HD clutch. If I'm not mistaken AC cars came with a 7 blade and for some reason mine has a 5. If it cools great at highway speeds and climbs high in traffic I need more airflow at idle. Thats my best guess. Don't get me wrong its never overheated but when it swings from 170 to 220 in traffic that bugs me.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I agree. Gonna watch her close next few days and if I still have that idle temp creep will be looking into a 7 blade fan. I've got the 5 blade now with a new HD clutch. If I'm not mistaken AC cars came with a 7 blade and for some reason mine has a 5. If it cools great at highway speeds and climbs high in traffic I need more airflow at idle. Thats my best guess. Don't get me wrong its never overheated but when it swings from 170 to 220 in traffic that bugs me.
I am in your boat I desire my engine to run cool, some here diss me on that, on the stock fan and shroud the key is where the fan sits in the shroud it makes it or breaks it,
it also seems from forum posts that on the stock shroud the sealing of it to the radiator is also important,
a large part of the reason I went to electric fans is ease of install and working in there, I have a 454 to me a spreader bar is must but it only fits with electric fans.......
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:48 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I agree. Gonna watch her close next few days and if I still have that idle temp creep will be looking into a 7 blade fan. I've got the 5 blade now with a new HD clutch. If I'm not mistaken AC cars came with a 7 blade and for some reason mine has a 5. If it cools great at highway speeds and climbs high in traffic I need more airflow at idle. Thats my best guess. Don't get me wrong its never overheated but when it swings from 170 to 220 in traffic that bugs me.
Before I got my Dewitts mine used to climb up to ~220, I didn't like that either, now it stays below 195, that's when my fans kick in I am in the middle of adding Vintage Air so I will be curious to see if my temps go above that...
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 11:37 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
Before I got my Dewitts mine used to climb up to ~220, I didn't like that either, now it stays below 195, that's when my fans kick in I am in the middle of adding Vintage Air so I will be curious to see if my temps go above that...
I am curious with your finding too...


How do you have your fans wired to run?

Mine are both on low then both on high for many reasons....

My guess with limited info is your fans will stay on a bit more when the ac is on,
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 12:21 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
I am curious with your finding too...


How do you have your fans wired to run?

Mine are both on low then both on high for many reasons....

My guess with limited info is your fans will stay on a bit more when the ac is on,
I used the setup that came with them from Dewitts, they turn on at ~195 and off at ~175. they also run full speed and I notice a hell of a draw when they first come on but then I'm a wiring moron so I wired them as best I knew how, I know there's better ways to do it though. I am happy with the setup
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:20 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
I used the setup that came with them from Dewitts, they turn on at ~195 and off at ~175. they also run full speed and I notice a hell of a draw when they first come on but then I'm a wiring moron so I wired them as best I knew how, I know there's better ways to do it though. I am happy with the setup
If you are happy that is all that matters,

I wanted more...
After lots of thought I did mine both on low and both on high, total 4000 cfm air,
Many reasons I wired that way but it helps keep that start up spike way down,

This is what I did but use at your own risk...I am no Tesla .

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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 03:43 PM
  #51  
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Thanks Bats, I couldn't shine Tesla's shoes
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 10:03 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by F22
Once you get rid of the OEM fan, you'll have no reason to run the original belts and pulleys and you can upgrade to a serpentine belt system. Except for a minor mod to the Power Steering Pump outlet, it is practically a bolt on, and cheap too! You might have to clock the alternator output lug as well, depending on your valve covers. The Chevy Caprice's from 1987 to 1991 are perfect donors for this. I paid $300 for the whole, very well GM designed system.

Mine has been on there for two years now. No more belt squeal and the power steering fluid cap is now easily accessible.


Does this set up require a reverse flow water pump? Do you know if the a/c bracket will bolt up to a Sanden Compressor?
Thanks
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 01:25 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
i tried a 16" e-fan and bubba'd it on the rad and left the stock shroud,
it ran warmer than stock, i could not get the shroud off


so i put the stock fan back in....

i did feel a few ponies extra tho

the po killed the front dam and i took it off, so my RAM air a compromised

the stock set up did not care, about no RAM


but the 16" stock 1982 "aux fan only" experiment i did made it boil over even driving at 50 mph it was not enough
--------
I just removed my rad and shroud, 1981, and the rad has to come out first, then the shroud. Absolutely cannot happen the other way round. Well, maybe it can, but Im betting things wont look the same when ur done..
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