stock 69 brake issues, help please....
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 4
From: Suffield CT
stock 69 brake issues, help please....
Has anyone had these brake symptoms ?
I don't drive my car enough, maybe once a month. Last 2 drives, when i hit the brake the steering wheel jerks to the left, and
the pedal is definitely soft. On the second pump the pedal is back to "normal".
I continue driving and the next time i need the brakes, everything repeats.
I plan to check pad thickness, but after that i need to research what could cause the car to do this.
Anyone have some good threads they can link me here ?
I know there are a million brake threads, but figured i'd ask if anyone felt generious today. :-)
thnx.
-ALF out...
I don't drive my car enough, maybe once a month. Last 2 drives, when i hit the brake the steering wheel jerks to the left, and
the pedal is definitely soft. On the second pump the pedal is back to "normal".
I continue driving and the next time i need the brakes, everything repeats.
I plan to check pad thickness, but after that i need to research what could cause the car to do this.
Anyone have some good threads they can link me here ?
I know there are a million brake threads, but figured i'd ask if anyone felt generious today. :-)
thnx.
-ALF out...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Brakes
There are many, many posts and threads on the C-2 (65 to 67) and C-3 braking system. If your car pulls to the left, check the right side caliper for leaks. I would also check the right side rubber brake line. It could be clogged on the inside and not allowing enough fluid into the caliper. If the rubber line or caliper is bad, think about rebuilding the entire system. Good luck. Jerry
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 4
From: Suffield CT
Sad enough it's been a year and still didn't get to this...SMH
Sanity post,
Going to jack front end up and spin PASS tire and hit brake to see if wheel stops spinning.
Going to jack front end up and spin DR tire and hit brake to see if wheel stops spinning.
This should confirm i have some braking.
Once i get this done will post next thing i try.
-ALF out...
Sanity post,
Going to jack front end up and spin PASS tire and hit brake to see if wheel stops spinning.
Going to jack front end up and spin DR tire and hit brake to see if wheel stops spinning.
This should confirm i have some braking.
Once i get this done will post next thing i try.
-ALF out...
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
While you have it jacked up, check for any signs of leaking brake fluid and pad wear. If all looks good, bleed all four brakes. Then go for a road test and report back.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Put some moth ***** down when you store it. Mice hate the stuff.
If your rubber brake lines (between steel lines and calipers) are original or very old, you really NEED to change them out. They go bad from the inside and can leave calipers partially applied when brakes should be 'released'. If you see no brake fluid leaks on inside or outside of rotors, then rubber hoses and/or clogs in brake lines could be the issue.
DOT 3 brake fluid absorbs water over time. If the brakes are used regularly, this problem is minimized. But, when seals sit idle for log periods, they can dry up and open themselves to air/humidity. Enough water in that fluid and you will generate an emulsion that can be problematic. If it has been a long time since the brake system has been purged and cleaned, it might be a good idea to do that AND change those hoses. After changing hoses, putting in fresh fluid, bleeding the M/C, then bleeding the calipers, you may find your brake function to be much better.
Problems with the M/C and/or the distribution block do not lend themselves to 'directional' issues with the brakes.
If your rubber brake lines (between steel lines and calipers) are original or very old, you really NEED to change them out. They go bad from the inside and can leave calipers partially applied when brakes should be 'released'. If you see no brake fluid leaks on inside or outside of rotors, then rubber hoses and/or clogs in brake lines could be the issue.
DOT 3 brake fluid absorbs water over time. If the brakes are used regularly, this problem is minimized. But, when seals sit idle for log periods, they can dry up and open themselves to air/humidity. Enough water in that fluid and you will generate an emulsion that can be problematic. If it has been a long time since the brake system has been purged and cleaned, it might be a good idea to do that AND change those hoses. After changing hoses, putting in fresh fluid, bleeding the M/C, then bleeding the calipers, you may find your brake function to be much better.
Problems with the M/C and/or the distribution block do not lend themselves to 'directional' issues with the brakes.
