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Door repair???

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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 09:23 PM
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Default Door repair???



This is a pry mark where someone tried to get the cylinder out and damaged the door around it. The fiberglass is cracked on the back side also. What is the best way to repair it? The door is from a 77 and will be used on my 76.

Thank you,
Carl
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 11:42 PM
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Thats a pretty easy repair. I would grind the back side out first. taper it at least an inch past the damage. Put some aluminum tape on the outside to prevent resin and glass from getting on the outer panel. Lay in at least 3 layers of glass and resin. starting with a smaller piece, then a little larger, then the last being the largest extending all the way past your grinding. I use west systems 105 epoxy resin and 3m glass mat. Once that hardens, grind the outside panel and do the exact same thing as you did on the backside. Once dry, sand and fit your door lock. You'll need a little body filler, I used evercoat vette body and panel adhesive. Expensive but simulates the fiberglass as for sanding etc. I have a tutorial that I posted a year or so ago on repairing fiberglass. Im sure there are other ways, some dumber some easier, but I guarantee if you follow my instructions your repair will be sound and never crack out. What you have is damage that will need to removed all the way to solid glass, then replaced with new solid fiberglass layup repair. Go to west systems website for great tips on doing fiberglass, even if you dont use there materials.https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...technique.html

Last edited by Sunstroked; Oct 16, 2015 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 12:01 AM
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Results speak for themselves

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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 12:27 AM
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Sunstroked
very nice reply to the posters question.

kdf
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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I would attempt to gently push the pried section back into position, or close, from the backside of the door. If it moves, put a patch on the backside to keep it there, then lay up a repair on the front side.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Sunstroked
Thats a pretty easy repair. I would grind the back side out first. taper it at least an inch past the damage. Put some aluminum tape on the outside to prevent resin and glass from getting on the outer panel. Lay in at least 3 layers of glass and resin. starting with a smaller piece, then a little larger, then the last being the largest extending all the way past your grinding. I use west systems 105 epoxy resin and 3m glass mat. Once that hardens, grind the outside panel and do the exact same thing as you did on the backside. Once dry, sand and fit your door lock. You'll need a little body filler, I used evercoat vette body and panel adhesive. Expensive but simulates the fiberglass as for sanding etc. I have a tutorial that I posted a year or so ago on repairing fiberglass. Im sure there are other ways, some dumber some easier, but I guarantee if you follow my instructions your repair will be sound and never crack out. What you have is damage that will need to removed all the way to solid glass, then replaced with new solid fiberglass layup repair. Go to west systems website for great tips on doing fiberglass, even if you dont use there materials.https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...technique.html
It has to be repaired from the back first to strengthen it before you grind out the front to start your repair.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 09:43 PM
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I just saw this thread and a common issue we face all the time is when the lock hole is repaired it is often made too thick. If you make the repaired area too thick you'll not be able to get the door lock retainer in place...

So before you paint or do anything.. test fit that lock cylinder.

We see this so often that I made an extension for my whiz wheel (twist lock) so that we could grind them down easier.

-Willcox
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
I just saw this thread and a common issue we face all the time is when the lock hole is repaired it is often made too thick. If you make the repaired area too thick you'll not be able to get the door lock retainer in place...

So before you paint or do anything.. test fit that lock cylinder.

We see this so often that I made an extension for my whiz wheel (twist lock) so that we could grind them down easier.

-Willcox
Agree on the thickness of the door glass and cylinder fit, but even a brand spanking new door skin I bought from a corvette vendor was slightly too thick and I had to grind a bit to get the lock cylinder clip to properly engage. The panel was too thick!
A properly repaired glass layup repair will be as strong as the original panel and sanding to proper thickness will not be an issue.
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Sunstroked
Agree on the thickness of the door glass and cylinder fit, but even a brand spanking new door skin I bought from a corvette vendor was slightly too thick and I had to grind a bit to get the lock cylinder clip to properly engage. The panel was too thick!
A properly repaired glass layup repair will be as strong as the original panel and sanding to proper thickness will not be an issue.

Some of the repro door skins are horrible in regards to thickness. Heck, even too much high build primer on the outside can cause an issue.
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunstroked
Agree on the thickness of the door glass and cylinder fit, but even a brand spanking new door skin I bought from a corvette vendor was slightly too thick and I had to grind a bit to get the lock cylinder clip to properly engage. The panel was too thick!
A properly repaired glass layup repair will be as strong as the original panel and sanding to proper thickness will not be an issue.
My new door skin even had to be ground down from behind to get the lock cylinder clip on. Not a big issue even when doing the repair to the original lock hole. I always fit everything anyway before paint.
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