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Not knowing what you have for tools and space and how far you want to go with this rust repair...there are many ways to 'somewhat' suppress this rust. Getting rid of it is not going to happen because you are dealing with the outside surface of the frame....and more than likely...the water is getting in from another area and migrating to this spot and settling.
Sandblasting it if you want...using the POR-15 products and going through their process.
Honestly...I would put the T-top back on or secure the convertible top...because I do not go by peoples avatars and not knowing what it is. WASH it really good or go drive it in the rain and see if you are getting water into the cabin at this area. THAT will tell a lot.
And then that will better direct you to where you 'should' go to correct that water leak problem.
Hi TMU,
You might want to take a closer look at the installation of the windshield header stainless steel trim.
It appears as though it's installed with it's rear flange inside the header while it should be outside (to the rear of) the header. It appears the passenger's side is o.k but not the driver's side.
I don't know if this has anything to do with the rust you're seeing but you may want to check it's installation while you have the chance.
Regards,
Alan
Not knowing what you have for tools and space and how far you want to go with this rust repair...there are many ways to 'somewhat' suppress this rust. Getting rid of it is not going to happen because you are dealing with the outside surface of the frame....and more than likely...the water is getting in from another area and migrating to this spot and settling.
Sandblasting it if you want...using the POR-15 products and going through their process.
Honestly...I would put the T-top back on or secure the convertible top...because I do not go by peoples avatars and not knowing what it is. WASH it really good or go drive it in the rain and see if you are getting water into the cabin at this area. THAT will tell a lot.
And then that will better direct you to where you 'should' go to correct that water leak problem.
DUB
Roger on checking for leaks and it is a vert. As I don't have sand blasting equip could I use a chemical rust remover? (I went on POR website but didn't see any rust removers so I called them, but after 10 min on hold was I disconnected.
Hi TMU,
You might want to take a closer look at the installation of the windshield header stainless steel trim.
It appears as though it's installed with it's rear flange inside the header while it should be outside (to the rear of) the header. It appears the passenger's side is o.k but not the driver's side.
I don't know if this has anything to do with the rust you're seeing but you may want to check it's installation while you have the chance.
Regards,
Alan
That is interesting. The passenger side is actually the same.
You can sand that down with a 2" wheel right down to metal. That does not appear bad at all. Upol #2 primer or Moellors Zinc Chromate green which is what was used originally.
I wonder what the looks are of the frame under the outer windshield trim and perhaps under the windshield itself.
The screws holding the top trim are tight as hell, think I'd have to maybe drill them out.
Originally Posted by rvzio
You can sand that down with a 2" wheel right down to metal. That does not appear bad at all. Upol #2 primer or Moellors Zinc Chromate green which is what was used originally.
Yeah those pics are a might scary. Thanks for info on the paint, I wondered what it was, I'll have to pick up a can.
Hi TMU,
The angle of the picture made me think I was seeing ss.
The ss trim should definitely be facing the driver, not tucked inside the header.
It's designed so the u-nut's slide onto the header and the small raised rectangles at each screw in the ss trim allow room for each u-nut.
I still don't know if this has anything to do with a leak, but it might.
Regards,
Alan
I edited this Friday at 1:40.
It appears I may be giving you some bad info…. I'm now thinking if your car is a convertible the ss trim does fit as shown in your picture!!!!!! At least that's how I'm now interpreting what I see in the 71 AIM!!!!
So Careful!
If it was my car, while you are treating the outside of the frame I would take out as many of the screws and trim I could from the windshield frame and treat the inside of the frame with a rust preventer. You can blow this into the frame with an airline and a shop cleaning gun (at least that is what I used) the more screw holes that are opened up the better the rust preventer can be blasted through the frame. You can get access to the A pillars as well by taking off the kick panels.
Roger on checking for leaks and it is a vert. As I don't have sand blasting equip could I use a chemical rust remover? (I went on POR website but didn't see any rust removers so I called them, but after 10 min on hold was I disconnected.
The POR-15 is a three step process....UNLESS you sandblast the steel clean. The POR-15 ..along with the MARINE CLEAN and ACID ETCH encapsulates the rust and provides a tough coating when cured.
You could use a rust remover...but I would see if you have ANY water leaks before I touched it with anything at all.
Originally Posted by TMU
The screws holding the top trim are tight as hell, think I'd have to maybe drill them out.
I WOULD.... at ALL COSTS.....NOT drill out the screws. I would try to get them out. I am curious on which screws you are having a problem with???
IF you can post a photo and put a small piece of tape by the screws so we know which ones they are. JUTS make sure that your screwdriver tip is REALLY GOOD and not worn out. I also suing my impact driver tool that allows me to hit it with a hammer while applying pressure in the direction I want to either tighten a screw even more or loosen it by shocking it. I ahve also used my air impact...and sockets with a Phillips head that fit VERY GOOD.....and while pressing down hard on the impact to firmly seat the Phillips tip into the screw...I pull the trigger of my impact LIGHTLY to allow the hammering effect of an impact to SHOCK the screw and get it to come out. Sometimes I have to switch the direction of the impact to tighten it just a little bit...and then loosen it a little bit and go back and forth to finally get it to come out. AND...Sometimes I have to take my cut off wheel can cut a flat slit in the head do I can use a flat blade screwdriver head...because the Phillips head is worn completely out.
Worst case scenarios....I weld onto the head of the screw so I can grab onto it with Vise-Grips and get it out....If I have clearance to do this.
Drilling out the screw or grinding off the head are my last resorts.
Windshield frame condition
