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So as I continue to evaluate my options with my '69, I've been doing as much research as possible with regard to separating the body from the frame. What I haven't been able to find is a good, all inclusive thread on the forum, or publication that covers the specifics of getting the body off the frame and some of the techniques involved....especially with regard to removing all of the body bolts depending on their condition, and then safely lifting the body off the frame and onto a dolly.
If anybody knows of a good reference, I would greatly appreciate the info....looking for some good front porch reading this weekend since the Patriots are off
Hi Greg,
So, it sounds like you're taking a BIG step!
I don't think there's an 'all inclusive' guide to preparing the body to lift it off the frame, although there are certainly various lists available.
I became VERY familiar with the Assembly Instruction Manual FIRST, looking especially at the sections for engine compartment connections, steering, clutch, brake connections and also "through the firewall electrical and vacuum connections", electrical connections (there are 4 basic harnesses), interior connections (especially the seat belt anchors), and the chassis section too.
You also need to think about the cooling system connections, fuel system connections (front and rear), and the front and rear bumper connections.
You might also want to consider how much of the body you disassemble before you lift in order make the lift lighter, and also consider just what kind of fixture (dolly) you're going to put the body on.
Even a BARE body is still about 750 lbs so you have to be prepared for that weight.
You might also want to think about documenting with pictures what you're taking apart as it makes reassembly a bit easier.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan, as I always, I appreciate your input. I haven't decided on any course of action yet...just trying to get as educated as possible before choosing a direction. My daily driver is a '72 C20 Suburban I built a few years ago with a 6.0L LS motor and 4L65E transmission, so Im not afraid of a big project, I just want to make sure I have a handle of what exactly Im getting myself into....something I clearly should have been a little more weary of BEFORE purchasing the car.... My biggest concern at this point (besides money) is physical space....my condo has an oversized one car garage....not ideal for separating bodies and chasis.....
Hi Greg,
I worked in a 13'x22' garage.
I built both a low dolly to move the body around on, and a taller dolly to store the body on so I could work next to it on the chassis restoration.
The body was COMPLETELY bare except for the core support.
The only thing I had plenty of was time; I didn't have much space, money, or skill. But I wanted to do it, so I made it work.
Regards,
Alan
Here the body and chassis are pushed to the end of the garage so I can work in the space across the front of both of them.
Here's the chassis tight against the body dolly with the body pushed forward so I could work across the rear of the chassis and to some degree on each side.
At times I had the chassis on jack stands sitting on casters so I could move the chassis around to get access where I needed it.
I spent 1 or 2 days a month (especially in the beginning) cleaning the garage because I was making so much filth in such a small place I couldn't stand to work in it.
Here's the low dolly. I built both out of wood because I don't know how to weld. There are some really nice aluminum dollies available now but on a budget they're a bit $$ for someone who may only use it once.
the first thing you do is also the last thing you do. get all 8 body mounts detached. it may take many weeks of soaking with penetrating oil and you might (probably will)have to make up a big square socket for holding the nut and it's cage which is riveted to the body while unbolting these bolts that have been in there going on 50 years...and you can do all that while car is still together and running.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
You might consider stacking the body above the chassis. Tho I have a two-car garage, I'm not prepared to park my DD outside for the duration of a frame off, so that's what I've been planning to do.
If anybody knows of a good reference, I would greatly appreciate the info....looking for some good front porch reading this weekend since the Patriots are off
Alan you low dolly is way more efficient than the one I made. I made mine from the plans I got off the internet and it seems 90% of the guys use that one. I think it's inadequate and not much support for the rear. Yours should be the new standard.
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Hi jr,
Here is the plan for the dolly, it's been posted here more than a few times.
It's easy to build it in half a day.
It's really suitable to use only a few times since it's just wood.
A steel or extruded aluminum dolly would be be stronger and more adjustable.
A few other people have used the plan and it's here and there on the internet too.
Regards,
Alan
Hi dd,
Yes, 2x10s, plus short pieces of 4x4 or 6x6 for the corners, 1/2"plywood corner gussets, and 2x3s or 2x4s for the up-rights. The 2x10s were sufficient because the body was ENTIRELY empty when it was on the dolly.
I really thought the dolly would get used just once put it did live a bit longer although now the only thing left are the wheels.
The length of the up-rights determines how high the body sits above the ground. The relationship of the up-rights needs to stay the same as in the drawing so all the body mount points are where they need to be.
The size of the wheels has an effect on the height of the body too. I used the large wheels to make the body easier to move around on unpaved surfaces.
Regards,
Alan
Alan....how did you lift your body off the frame (i.e., engine crane or other)? Did you remove the doors or leave them on for the lift?
My new shop is 18x24 with a 9'6" ceiling height. I'm in need of a new engine crane and I'm debating putting that money twords an adjustable height gantry crane...or talking my father into fabricating a fixed height gantry that I can take down and store on the floor under my work bench.
I tried to simulate GM's method by locating my pulleys centered on the car. The 2x16 triple header with a steel 1/4 x16" plate bolted in the middle for support. Doors were on the car with padding on the straps as to not but a lot of side pressure on the doors.
ZIO
People make this body off job sound epic because for some it is,
In the case of my 69 after much discussion my wife decided I would hire it done this time and my tech didn't provide the pictures he promised, but did do lots of damage,
The fellow I got my 454 from did a frame off in an apt parking lot, it can be as high end or low end as a person is willing to make it, the body bolts might all come right out, they might fall out from rust or need to be cut hacked and torched out,
My advice is read ever post you can from people have done it and taking a bit from each do the job YOUR way....then do it and pound your chest how epic it was....
Hahahaha....thanks Bats. At this point, my biggest concern (if I decide to do it), isn't the bolts, or disconnecting stuff, its the lift itself.....Obviously, a 2 post lift is ideal, although clearly numerous people have done it with an engine hoist....which is the route I would have to go....I can't wait for the HOA complaint as Im blocking the back alley way lifting a corvette body off a rusty frame with an engine hoist and a bunch of straps......actually, add a case of beer and that sounds like a pretty enjoyable afternoon.....
I was surprised how the center of gravity of the lifted body was near the firewall and not in the center of the door, so be aware of that when you first start the lift. Good luck!
Complete guide to body removal?
