Bezel repair???
I actually made a small guide and drilled a tiny hole into the ends and inserted a short piece of steel rod (the shank of the same size drill) and then roughened up the outside surface and epoxied a piece of metal window screen. The rod holds the two ends lined up and the epoxy screen keeps them together.
That was 20+ years ago and the dash has been apart numerous time and never let go.
Without something to maintain the alignment I don't think glue alone (cyano or epoxy or ???) will hold it that well. That area is under a lot of pressure.
If I did it again i'd glue it with cyano and then take a slitting wheel on a dremel and grind a thin slot on the outside that a small steel rod could be set into.
M





I've had some success repairing bezels that have been broken on just one side. For some reason the bezels I've repaired have all been broken on the right side. I think this MAY have something to do with people pushing on the upper LEFT corner of the bezel to try to get a better fit with the upper dash pad.
I first use something like Q-bond to hold the break in as perfect an alignment as I can achieve. This often takes more than a few tries.
I then make a 'patch' in the shape of a triangle with sides about 1" long cut from fiberglass screening (Lowes) and use the Q-bond to glue the triangle in place on the outer side of the bezel. I fill the screen mesh with the Q-bond powder and Q-bond.
I 'rough-up' the chrome plating on the side where the patch will be placed to give the Q-bond a better surface to 'grab'.
I try to hide the 'split' in the chrome edge which usually appears as a tiny thin black line by flowing thinned silver into the split, but getting none on the abutting chrome surface
I do a normal repair on the visible side of the bezel where the break occurred and the regular bezel restoration hides that.
I caution people I've done this for that they still need to be extremely careful with their repaired bezel.
Since there are no accurate reproductions of the bezel for early cars available it seems worth the effort at this time.
2 pics.
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; Nov 5, 2015 at 08:32 AM.
Last time, I got some thin steel shim stock, need to look, think it must have been .020 or 030 thousands thick. cut to fit both outside sides of the bezel, trim flush in the front where it shows, leave extra in the back where it will not show. And then clean all with dawn and brake cleaner and then put on rubber gloves, super glue and clamp. This seemed to work best and you really have to look closely to see the thin metal shim stock on each side.
Hope this helps.
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Only myself knows where the break is.

