I've got some vacation time coming up, so I'm making a list of things I want to tackle on my '75.

Foremost, my ignition switch is having an intermittent problem where it doesn't send juice to the starter when the key is turned to "start". Sometimes it works and sometimes...not. I've already checked the usual suspects...battery is fully charged and connections are good.

After doing some reading, I thought it might have to do with the transmission interlock lever malfunctioning (auto trans), but I checked that yesterday and the cable is in good shape and it moves the lever to the upper most (1 o'clock) position when the shifter is in park. There doesn't appear to be any way to adjust the cable to push the interlock lever further upward. Is that correct?

The ignition has the typical slop in it. When it failed to start yesterday, I was able to push in on it (towards the column) while turning and the engine fired right up, which leads me to believe it's just worn and needs replacing.

Can I have a new ignition switch keyed to use the original key? Not a big deal if I can't, as my round key fits everything except the ignition.

From what I've described, does it sound like the ignition switch is the likely culprit, or is there something else I'm missing?

Thanks for your input guys.

 

The key switch can be keyed if you just have to have it that way. With the ignition key being used only for the ignition..I would replace it and not worry about it.

AND ...there is a high probability that the key switch is NOT the problem. The problem can be inside the column with the gear that is turning and the pot metal slide that is moving the rod to your ignition electrical switch that is mounted on top of the column.

AND this is assuming that you have checked and verified that the PURPLE wire going to your starter solenoid is NOT getting voltage when you turn you key and it not cranking.

DUB

 

Here's some pics of what Dub is speaking of-

sliding rod-

DSCN5205 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

where the rod connects on the side of the steering column actual switch- black piece w/ the slot in it-

DSCN5206 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

another view-

DSCN5195 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

switch mapped out-

starter wires by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

 

Thanks Richard! Pics are priceless.

Rick

 

BTW you have never mentioned if you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a tilt & telescoping column. The workings inside the steering column head are different between the two types. I do have a set of Disassembly & Repair Papers on both types. Let us know what type.

Jim

 

I agree with Jim...because if you do have a tele-tilt column and the column is loose at the knuckle....THAT alone in itself can throw off the rod adjustment and cause the car not to crank...due to having 'side to side' play.

DUB

 

Thanks, guys. It's a standard column. Looks like I'll be pulling it all apart next week.
Jim, I found your instructions on your web page. Those will be extremely helpful.

 

Obviously you can do as you wish...

But before you 'jump in' and start taking things apart. Only speaking from experience....I would make sure that the PURPLE wire that is coming off the ignition switch that is bolted to the top of your steering column mast is NOT putting out battery voltage when your problem occurs.

If you verify that this PURPLE wire is not sending out the battery voltage when the key is turned.....and then you can 'fidget' with the key lock cylinder and get it to work....THEN I would get into the column and see what is going on....or possibly check the ignition switch that is bolted to the top of the steering column mast.

DUB

 

PM'd you some questions.