Thanks Willcox! I ordered some sheet metal to practice on and will see if the plug welds or the spot weld attachment for the MIG welder makes better/stronger welds.

 

The grinding is pretty much done, but looks like either the corner piece is off a little or the right side of the header is bent a little. After I get that figured out I need to mark and drill some holes before cleaning things up and welding it in place.





Fit of corner piece.

 

Jim...

C clamp it in where you can and then work it in with a small hammer... form fit it.


Again this is where having a huge spot welder comes in handy for us. When work the corners as close as possible and then when we pinch them down with the spot welder it will pull them in the rest of the way.

The corners are too long on the bottom too.. you'll need to trim them off until they are about 1/4" above the dip in the A pillar post.


Willcox

 

Thanks for the tips, especially the last one! I have pliers made for the spot welding attachment for the MIG welder that should pull the area in nice and tight.

I noticed a step on the corner piece that wasn't quite lining up with the vertical post.

 

Jim-

Here is a picture that I keep showing a factory corner installed just in case someone needs it. Note the distances between A and B... to obtain this you may need to trim the ends of the new corner. After the new header is done the length of the corners are supposed to be address next.

 

I finally got the chance to break out the MIG welder and try both plug welds and the spot weld nozzle on some 18 gauge mild steel I bought.





Welding rig with C25.

Below the left two pieces of steel were done with the spot weld nozzle and fell apart. The piece on the right was done with plug welding 3/16th inch holes in the top layer.





Results

Below you can see the back side of the second steel sheet and the penetration was pretty good, especially on the 2 near the middle.





Back side of weld.

Below you can see where I tried to rip the two sheets apart and the 2 welds toward the middle held well. The two welds towards the outside didn't penetrate as well.





Bottom of welds





Top of welds

I need to practice more, but also will check the website where I got the spot weld nozzle to see if it is an issue with my technique, if I need to turn the heat up a bit or it just doesn't work well for the current task.

I was wearing a self-darkening helmet and when I first started welding I thought I blew the breaker. Previously I only did stick welding and that was before they had these type of helmets. I was sure to be safe and had on leather gloves and sleeve protectors. This sure seems easier than I remember stick welding being. I didn't realize that getting the tank with C25 was a pretty large expense.

Update: Apparently with the 110V welders you need to drill a 3/16 hole in the outer panel even with the spot welder nozzle.

 

Since it was unusually warm last night I decided to use some internal frame coating spray in the areas of the windshield frame I can reach. The first 2 cans I tried did nothing with the standard or the nozzle with a tube/sprayer end. On the third can it sprayed fine when I tested it with the standard nozzle, but when I put the tube/sprayer nozzle on it, when I started to spray it almost instantly clogged the nozzle. As a result when I removed the nozzle from the can it leaked all over my hands. I should have been wearing rubber gloves. By the time I got cleaned up I didn't really have time to try another nozzle and the 4th can I have. It is a bummer as I don't know when we are going to have a day that warm again where I can do this and the garage is not heated. I did have a little space heater going, but it doesn't make much of a difference.

 

Sorry that there have been no updates for a while, but between medical issues with my Mom and the weather I haven't had time in the garage. We finally had some freak warm weather this past weekend and I finally found a can of the rust converter that would spray. I was able to get the spray in the horizontal part of the header and the drivers side vertical section. Now I feel comfortable doing the final prep to get the corner welded into place.

 

Getting closer to installing the corner piece. I have a related question I hope I can get people's opinion on. My original thought was to have the windshield installed by the company I paid $80 to remove it, but they have not been very responsive to my email. They were able to remove the original windshield without damaging it and the car has just over 100K miles. Can the original windshield have the minor chips, etc removed/cleaned up or is it better just to go the route of a new windshield and figure out any fitment issues? Thanks!

 

Jim

If it was my car I would get the front windshield repaired if possible that way you know it will be a direct fit and correct. I have had a few windshields replaced on my personal vehicles and work vans and even after paying extra for the better windshield found blemishes and sometimes, hard to describe, but a vision blemish, wierd spot of distortion. If that makes sense. I would be concerned about the company not responding to your emails. Why be in business if you cannot be in touch with your customers. Maybe reach out to DM corvette by you and ask if they have someone they recommend, I'm sure they have a contact they trust or offer the service.
DUB may have a suggestion also.
Glad it is working out for you and coming together. Important part is taking care of momma, as you only have one of those!

 

I just had Safelite put a new windshield in my 76. They did a perfect job. Glass was perfect to...A little over $300.00 including reinstalling my rear glass.

 

They are the company I paid to remove the old windshield and did an OK job as he didn't break it. When I get everything welded, etc. I will give them another chance and see what I get in response. The nice thing is their location is very close to me. He came to my home for the removal of the old windshield.

 

I think I have seen the distortion you are talking about. I looks like the glass sort of bunched up while being heated to be bent during manufacturing.

 

OK, I got a little further today, but am having a little fitting the corner piece in properly.





Fits pretty well





Close





Too high





Looks pretty good from the top

The corner frame piece sits too high towards the center of the car. I did a little trimming on the vertical part of the corner piece so that the metal wouldn't overlap and it was just a small amount. I can't tell if the corner piece needs bent more or if a little more trimming where there is some overlap on the vertical piece towards the inside of car will make enough difference.

 

Yesterday I could not insert these images. You will see a little scratch in the replacement corner where I need to cut that material out, but then the spot weld would be totally gone from that area. Do I cut that out so it doesn't overlap on the inner vertical windshield post? If so, I assume I should weld it in another location. Are these corners always such that a decent amount of alteration is needed to make them fit? Thanks!





Cut along line





Further away

 

I think I finally figured out the issue where it isn't sitting down as low as the rest of the horizontal part of the windshield frame. It looks like the radius of the new corner piece is too tight to sit where it should. I may slot that corner and then stitch weld it back when everything is in place.





Bend too tight.

I still have to figure out what to do with the two pieces that overlap that should not overlap. I also have to fix up what I thought was a smart idea at the time but is a bigger pain that I had hoped. Before spraying the rust inhibitor into the vertical part of the windshield frame I stuffed a paper towel in there to prevent the stuff from getting into the interior. I have gotten small pieces out, but still have a bit of paper towel to remove. Doh!

 

I have a USB endoscope and was able to get that piece of paper towel out using that and a piece of coat hanger. I pushed it down into the kick panel area. Before having the endoscope I wasn't sure if that went all of the way through.

I notched the radius of the bend and the fit is a lot better, but still a hair off, need to look at it closer tonight.

 

OK, I ran into a final issue and I need to order a new corner piece. Apparently the corner piece was not made properly. The plate that was welded on that I had to cut a weld off was due to what I think was the corner piece slipping in the jig when it was welded. Everything on the outside part of the windshield frame is a good fit, but if I used the piece there will be a large hole on the top inside left corner of the windshield frame. Time to buy another one and check it more closely before trimming. I think I know what vendor I got it from, but don't think I should ask for a refund since I cut it up. Luckily they aren't too expensive so will order one today and check very closely . I really want to get the car back on the road soon as the weather is getting very nice.

 

I got the new corner piece and while it is closer, it still isn't right. I sent an email to see what can be done about it before I decide to drill out the welds and move the offending plate. I know the ends need trimmed on these things, but didn't think that drilling welds out to move a piece would be needed.

 

How does this look to everyone?




Slight overlap of pieces




Too big of an opening?<br/>




Original fit