I have a 1977 Corvette that needs frame repair in both dogleg areas. The windshield frame also needs some spot welding of new pieces. I have done some stick welding a long time ago, but think to do both jobs a wire welder might work best. One limitation is my garage is only wired for 110 volts 15 amps. I might purchase said welder, but the local home remodeling store does rent them at a reasonable price as long as I don't take more than a week to weld the three areas. My wife would also prefer I not buy a welder unless absolutely necessary. I was quoted $2,600+ to do the work, but hope to complete it for about half of that. What suggestion do people have for buying or renting a welder(s) that will handle both jobs and hopefully run on a 110 V circuit? My garage isn't far from the house so a heavy duty extension cord is a possibility.

 

I would advise a heavy duty extension cord plugged into a 220 outlet(dryer/stove, etc.) Best you can get out of a 110 vt unit is I think 110-120 amp. I don't feel that's enough for the frame.

 

I thought about spending money on welding equip, but would not weld everyday and so would also become only so good.

My suggestion and what I do, is I do all of the cutting and fitting of the pieces and have the welder only do the welding. So, the welder only has to weld period. You having some experience will know what the welder needs to go to work welding right away. This way, I believe your cost will be a lot more affordable and you get a person who welds everyday for a living and is therefore very good at it.

Hope this might help.

 

Thanks, I have found a 140 amp inverter type wire welder that has the option of MIG that uses 110 V 20 Amp.

 

Trying to do this kind of work without the proper equipment or experience is not a good idea especially if you are trying to do the repairs with the body on the frame . You will get dangerous results and de-value the car with inferior repairs. You can't access all of the frame to do a quality repair with the body on. Leave the work to a professional for safety sake. There is a lot more to welding than just running a bead of weld. It has to have good penetration and you surely won't get that with a 110volt welder and no experience.

 

Nice idea, will have to see who I can find in the western 'burbs of Chicago.

 

Hi Jim,
I'll caution you that what ever repair that is done needs to be done in a very professional way.
The last thing you want is to have put the time and money into the repair but have the result look amateurish and detract from the rest of the car.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Here's an example of what I'm referring to. "Let's spray some black paint on it and no one will ever notice it"!!!!

 

Ouch, thanks Alan.

 

I bought a 110 volt Mig from Home Depot and it was used on my frame and windshield frame with no problem. I also use it on my 72 Chevy truck I am restoring. I only paid $450.00 for it and it also uses gas.

 

I would consider putting a 220 v drop in your garage. It might be cheaper then you think depending on where your Main or sub box is located. Once this is done I would look for a used Mig welder. since you are familiar with welding it will not take long to learn to Mig weld. I was taught to weld as a young child using a stick welder by my Dad back in the 60's.
Having a 220v outlet in your shop/Garage will come in handy.

 

And even if the body is OFF the frame.....you REALLY HAVE TO know what you are doing or you can be just wasting time and money and putting innocent people at risk.

I guess you are looking into having someone weld it for you...if I read you reply in post #6 correctly. And just because they are a competent welder....having the skills to know how to weld a frame is important.


*** On another note****
For those who may not know this: The 'duty cycle' of the welder....which is the percentage of an hour that it can effective weld. SO...a welder with a 40% duty cycle means it can ONLY weld correctly for 40% of an hour. A 100% duty cycle means it can weld all the time.

MIG welders that are 110VAC can weld a frame...but a lot of it deals with wire speed and how the person is welding...the amperage of the welder. I have a Miller MIG welder and I can weld on a frame and not have a worry about it penetrating...but I have been using it for 30 years so I KNOW my welder very well and its limits.

It is not so much being able to weld....but if frame sections are going to be cut out and replaced...that is a bit different.....DEPENDING on how bad the rust is and WHERE it is located. Repeat....WHERE the rust is located.

In 5 instances in the past 30 years....I have been faced with frames that were so BADLY rusted out...in CRITICAL AREAS....that the costs to repair them were not worth it and a new frames were purchased. Remember....a frame is STRUCTURE...and not seeing what you have for rust damage...I can only envision the worst.

DUB

 

I will have to see if the people in my local Corvette club have any recommendations.

From what I have seen it isn't that bad and this was confirmed by the local Corvette shop. I also know you sometimes don't see the full extent of the damage until you get it opened up. Based on some pictures I posted of behind the kick panels some people here had me thinking my windshield was going to collapse any day. I took off the trim and what I found isn't too bad and when I get the windshield removed will post some pictures. Thanks!

 

The welds Alan shows is some nasty stuff. Best to have a good job that looks professional as Alan also mentioned. Hopefully you will not extreme damage.
ZIO

 

I've considered updating to 220, 50 amps, but not just because of the welder issue.

 

That might be the same welders they rent.

 

Thanks!

 

D & M Corvette on Ogden should be able to help,

Frank

 

Actually, duty cycle is based on a 10 minute time period. With a 30% duty cycle you could weld continuously for 3 minutes then let the machine cool down for 7 minutes before resuming.

I've seen some of the better name brand inverter welders that run on 120VAC with 100% duty cycle at typical sheet metal wire speeds.

 

This is true. A 120v welder on a 20 amp circuit will be able to handle a frame and window areas no problem. I use a 120 volt "buzz box" made by Miller, it has a 100% duty cycle. Welders by Hobart and Lincoln do not have this I believe, a 15-30% only. Like Dub and sandy laker say will have to stop and let machine cool down.
Now I use this welder to weld on boiler flanges 1/4, 3/8 thick on black pipe, and get great penetration. I however use a solid core wire with shielding gas. Argon, Nitrogen. This prevents porosity (holes in the welds) and helps lay down a cleaner weld. Flux core wire leaves a lot of slag and flux during the weld. That is ok but you must completlely clean the new weld with a wire wheel then continue with the weld. Make sure the areas to be welded are clean metal and you should have no problems. My .02 cents.

 

Thanks, that is where I got the initial quote.