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This is true. A 120v welder on a 20 amp circuit will be able to handle a frame and window areas no problem. I use a 120 volt "buzz box" made by Miller, it has a 100% duty cycle. Welders by Hobart and Lincoln do not have this I believe, a 15-30% only. Like Dub and sandy laker say will have to stop and let machine cool down.
Now I use this welder to weld on boiler flanges 1/4, 3/8 thick on black pipe, and get great penetration. I however use a solid core wire with shielding gas. Argon, Nitrogen. This prevents porosity (holes in the welds) and helps lay down a cleaner weld. Flux core wire leaves a lot of slag and flux during the weld. That is ok but you must completlely clean the new weld with a wire wheel then continue with the weld. Make sure the areas to be welded are clean metal and you should have no problems. My .02 cents.
Thanks. The welder I am considering has the following specs:
Amperage output: 30–140; 30% duty cycle @ 90 Amps
Weld Thickness (in.) 24 ga.–3/16
Welding Wire Diameter (in.) 0.023–0.035
Actually, duty cycle is based on a 10 minute time period. With a 30% duty cycle you could weld continuously for 3 minutes then let the machine cool down for 7 minutes before resuming.
I've seen some of the better name brand inverter welders that run on 120VAC with 100% duty cycle at typical sheet metal wire speeds.
THANK YOU for the CORRECTION!!!
WOW...I was told what I wrote by a welding manufacturer 20+ years ago....and I have been wrong all this time.....OH WELL.....better late than never.....so...I am glad to be corrected in this.
One good thing...I have never had either of my welders shut off due to reaching the duty cycle limits.
There is also Corvette City in Highland Park on Rt 41
I'm sorry, but I can personally say that this place is NOT good. There has been speculation for a long time of part swapping and stealing of factory OEM parts on cars. I learned the hard lesson with these butchers first hand on my 68'. I would recommend Black Dog Speed Shop in Lincolnshire or Vetteran Automotive, Crystal Lake.
Here is a few shots of a frame I repaired for a friend with a 120v Miller welder with flux core wire. Back of frame ahead of end cap and a little hole in frame. Amazing how much dirt, sand, leaves and crap got in there.
Here is the hole I found in the drivers side corner windshield frame. I ordered an inspection endoscope so I can see what it looks like from the inside. Based on just the exterior of the windshield frame it does need a new corner piece, but other than that doesn't look bad. I also saw what looked like a crusted over rust through spot on the the lower windshield frame until I realized the hole is supposed to be there and it was partially covered with sealant. How hard would it be to just replace the one corner? Thanks.
As I tell my customers...I can patch in a piece of steel to close up the hole. And they are AWARE that all of the rust that is inside the post/frame that I can not get to.
SO...if a person gets all caught up and OBSESSED on removing all of the rust....EVERYWHERE....then the car ends to be completely dismantled and the steel structures need to be dipped or what ever process to get ALL of the rust out of it.
There is a point where a decision needs to be made (if it had not already been made) on how far are you willing to go to get the rust out.
As I tell my customers...I can patch in a piece of steel to close up the hole. And they are AWARE that all of the rust that is inside the post/frame that I can not get to.
SO...if a person gets all caught up and OBSESSED on removing all of the rust....EVERYWHERE....then the car ends to be completely dismantled and the steel structures need to be dipped or what ever process to get ALL of the rust out of it.
There is a point where a decision needs to be made (if it had not already been made) on how far are you willing to go to get the rust out.
DUB
Thanks Dub!
I just plan to clean up the worst of it. I am planning to blow out any loose rust and use a rust encapsulator sprayed on the inside of the windshield frame. I don't need it to be perfect, just mechanically solid and last many years with the car being driven on nice days. I think I will replace the corner piece and evaluate the rest of the windshield frame.
I just plan to clean up the worst of it. I am planning to blow out any loose rust and use a rust encapsulator sprayed on the inside of the windshield frame. I don't need it to be perfect, just mechanically solid and last many years with the car being driven on nice days. I think I will replace the corner piece and evaluate the rest of the windshield frame.
I'm sorry, but I can personally say that this place is NOT good. There has been speculation for a long time of part swapping and stealing of factory OEM parts on cars. I learned the hard lesson with these butchers first hand on my 68'. I would recommend Black Dog Speed Shop in Lincolnshire or Vetteran Automotive, Crystal Lake.
Wow I was not aware of that. I have only been there once and that was just to look at bumper covers when I had my 85.
I have a ton of experience in the rear frame welding.... Sometimes you have to remove braces and cut extra holes to reach areas that need repair. Behind the lower end frame cap about three inches back is another inner reinforcement so if the outer cap is rotten remove it and inspect inside the rail for the next reinforcement up. Look for metal separation marks too... Our facebook page as multipe pictures of us doing this repair.
You can see the inner reinforcement in this picture.
In regards to the windshield frame, we have a huge 220 spot welder and unless we are putting in a pillar post, we spot weld everything together. You can drill holes fill weld with a tig (or mig) and get a good weld avoiding the spot welder but it makes for a bit more clean up. If we are installing a pillar then we will make an insert for inside the existing pillar, weld it in place and then weld the pillar over top.
If you have purchased a new header for your windshield frame and intend on installing it as a whole piece you should send it back it won't fit.... New correct fitting headers are going to be available soon.
I have a ton of experience in the rear frame welding.... Sometimes you have to remove braces and cut extra holes to reach areas that need repair. Behind the lower end frame cap about three inches back is another inner reinforcement so if the outer cap is rotten remove it and inspect inside the rail for the next reinforcement up. Look for metal separation marks too... Our facebook page as multipe pictures of us doing this repair.
You can see the inner reinforcement in this picture.
In regards to the windshield frame, we have a huge 220 spot welder and unless we are putting in a pillar post, we spot weld everything together. You can drill holes fill weld with a tig (or mig) and get a good weld avoiding the spot welder but it makes for a bit more clean up. If we are installing a pillar then we will make an insert for inside the existing pillar, weld it in place and then weld the pillar over top.
If you have purchased a new header for your windshield frame and intend on installing it as a whole piece you should send it back it won't fit.... New correct fitting headers are going to be available soon.
Thanks for the great picture and the link to that PDF! I have been watching the thread where you are working with the manufacturer to get that windshield header right. I am not yet sure if I need one, but good to know there should be a well made one soon.
Still not sure how much I will do myself, but I have most of the spot welds drilled out for the windshield frame corner. I am actaully a little further along than shown in the pics.
