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I’m looking for some advice for the preparation and (long-term) storage on my numbers matching engine. The engine with be stored until maybe I sale the car or I decide put it back to a more original condition (and drive it more sensibly). The engine is a 1971 454 LS5. The engine runs strong, but there seem to be some noise from the rotating assemble. I had the oil pan off, which revealed a rod that was rather dark. I will rebuild it when it is put back in service. I plan to block off all the opening, bag it and store it in an engine cradle. Any suggestions for prep and storage are welcomed.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I would google long term storage for motors. Boat people call it "fogging the engine" around here. But the engine needs to be running I believe. Its basically an oil base product you spray into the engine as it runs to coat the cylinders in oil as it kills the engine. Basically you're looking to get the cylinders and valves all covered in oil to prevent surface rust. If you have the time just tear down the engine and coat eveything in a rust preventative silicone spray. You could put the block on your stand still and everything else in those vacuum seal bags that they sell for clothes. You suck the air out with a shop vac.
Maybe find one big enough for the whole engine or invent one and become a millionaire. Just remember to slip me a few bucks after you make that first million. Sell them cheap so you sell alot.
Boat people call it "fogging the engine" around here.
Originally Posted by Richard454
Back off the rocker arms so the springs are not compressed.
The motor needs to be rebuilt. It will need to be bored and most valve train parts replaced. Just plug the intake and exhaust so mice don't get in there and it'll be fine as long as you keep it inside.
To add to the above advice, I have squirted oil in the cylinders, rotated the crank a few times, then replaced the spark plugs. Turn the block upside down, and let all the coolant drain out/evaporate. Or use the block drains if they are not corroded shut.
To add to the above advice, I have squirted oil in the cylinders, rotated the crank a few times, then replaced the spark plugs. Turn the block upside down, and let all the coolant drain out/evaporate. Or use the block drains if they are not corroded shut.
This is the way people always used to do it back in the day. Drain all the coolant, shoot some oil in each plug hole. Any exposed non-painted metal squirt with some oil or even better smear some bearing grease or cosmoline on if you've got it. Block off all the openings to keep dust and crud out.
Run the engine to operating temp using a ethanol free gasoline.
I drain the engine oil while still hot, refill with new oil and new filter. Used oil contains acid that will etch bearings. Run for a few minutes to circulate. I do not drain the anti freeze. I found lots of rust formed inside the coolant passages if left open to air.
I use STA-BIL ® Fogging Oil blown liberally into every nook and cranny of each cylinder...rotating the engine as I do each one. I also loosen every rocker arm although I've been told by more than one knowledgeable mechanic that springs don't go bad simply from being compressed for years. Then I hermetically seal it in a Summit Racing engine bag using my Foodsaver vacuum system.
Last edited by sandy laker; Dec 2, 2015 at 10:29 PM.
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Since it needs a rebuild, simply fog it, drain the coolant and block off all openings as others have suggested. I winterize my boats by just fogging them and making sure the gas has been treated. Simple really.
Run the engine to operating temp using a ethanol free gasoline.
I drain the engine oil while still hot, refill with new oil and new filter. Used oil contains acid that will etch bearings. Run for a few minutes to circulate. I do not drain the anti freeze. I found lots of rust formed inside the coolant passages if left open to air.
I use STA-BIL ® Fogging Oil blown liberally into every nook and cranny of each cylinder...rotating the engine as I do each one. I also loosen every rocker arm although I've been told by more than one knowledgeable mechanic that springs don't go bad simply from being compressed for years. Then I hermetically seal it in a Summit Racing engine bag using my Foodsaver vacuum system.
Did you catch the part about the motor needing to be rebuilt?
Definately seal all the openings regardless. Engine builder friend with 99pt 65 C2 396 had bad overheating problems after fresh 70k restoration.
Nut shells in the water jacket of brand new engine. Was obviously stored for a little while open.