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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 12:12 AM
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Default Crossmember loading

I have both sides of my cross member almost completely cut but I am wondering does it carry any load from the frame sides. Is there any chance of anything twisting or the frame rails moving out of alignment if I cut both sides and take it out completely and then weld the plates on and bolt it back up.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 12:26 AM
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Transmission cross member? If so, I didn't notice any load on mine. Remember the automatic's have a removable cross member.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 12:34 AM
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Don't think so. I've had the X-member from my auto trans car out a few times without any problem. I'm assuming that you mean 'while you are working on it'. I'm sure that member is necessary during vehicle operation.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 02:10 AM
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No I was just wondering if anyone who had cut theirs and welded in the plates to make it removable had ever seen the cross member move when the cut it. I machined 2 pair of butt plates today out of 1/4 flat plate and have the cross member almost cut through on both sides but before I completed the cut I was just asking if anyone had ever seen the cross member move out of alignment when it was cut
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 06:37 AM
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I believe the only reason it would move is if the frame is not straight to begin with and under some form of tension. If it is straight and not binding you should have no issue with movement.

Make sure you post up pictures when done, I'd like to see how it turns out for you.

Best of success to you.

David Howard
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Here's some pictures of what I did.
Pics are in reverse order.
Bolted into place





Welded plate on center section of cross member





Welded plate to cross member from frame





Marked location to cut on cross member



Last edited by 502 C-3; Dec 12, 2015 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 01:25 PM
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That's exactly what I needed to know thanks. I made the final cuts this morning and nothing moved. I machined 4 plates almost exactly like yours out if 1/4 flat stock and cut the radius on the milling machine, hell a grinder would have done just as good. I made the cuts 8 inches off the frame rail on each side. After I get it all sandblasted and painted I will post pics

Last edited by Skip Burney; Dec 12, 2015 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 02:41 PM
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Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
David
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 05:39 PM
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 10:12 PM
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Thanks 502 I used your idea now all I have to do is like everything up and weld it in place
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 11:37 PM
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I was able to tap in the cross member with both plates on and tack it on the frame side then unbolt the center section and remove and weld the plates on the frame side.
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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 12:36 AM
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Since I was not going to remove the body- Didn't want to weld-running sidepipes and got rid of my mechanical parking brake w/ an electronic one-

I cut the frame at and angle- have 3/16" thick 3" x 1½" rectangular tubing 36" in length. Fits really snug inside the original frame- and using two bolts on each side...DONE!!!

Just used a Sawzall for removal-


mock-up







DSCN4446 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr





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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 01:10 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 502 C-3
I was able to tap in the cross member with both plates on and tack it on the frame side then unbolt the center section and remove and weld the plates on the frame side.
That's exactly what I did
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