I've rattle canned a lot of stuff over the years but want to step-up my game on my '69. I've been working on the speedo & tach cans, the ones that are green on the inside and generally rusty on the outside! I'm using Valspar Metallic Brushed Nickel from Lowes on the outside and a matte finish, Valspar Everglade Glen, also from Lowes, on the inside. The Everglade Glen is a close match to the original color and should work well.

After removing the rust, I sprayed both the inside and out with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer and allowed it to dry for several days. Then I taped off the holes and painted the outside with the Brushed Nickel. I allowed it to cure for about 4 days and then prepped it for the Everglade Glen. I again taped off the all the holes and the outside to keep the Everglade Glen off of the Brushed Nickel. I used the blue painters tape and this is where the problem occured. I only left the tape on the piece for about 6 hours and it marred the Brushed Nickel finish! It's not that bad but I didn't think that the blue tape would screw-up the finish the way it did. Should I have left it to cure longer before using the tape on it? Did I use the wrong tape? What else could I have done to come out with a better result? Was rattle can the wrong way to go.

My car is a restro-mod. Not going to be a true original restoration so I'm not looking to make everything perfect but would like to do the best job that I can to make the parts look good and protect them.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Gus

 

I've not used the paint you're using but have found that most of the "metallic" or textured paints I've used are very susceptible to marring for several days after.
Honestly, for a visible piece I'll usually leave it for the next weekend.

For silver and aluminum color paints I'll still usually stick the tape to my jeans and then pull it off and stick it to the part being masked, it removes the initial "stick" and yet leaves enough for it to do it's job.

One thing I wanted to mention is to make sure you leave a good ground contact around where the lights go in the gauge pods.


M

 

For small stuff- I put it in the toaster oven at 210 for 30 minutes. Works great!!!

I have my own toaster in the basement/shop!!!

Too funny- I just sprayed my cluster w/ Metallic matte Nickel today.....

I let it cool a few minutes taped it up w/ Bluehawk (Lowes) painters tape- and sprayed the other side. No problems!!! Been super humid here- and about 70º -not ideal painting conditions. This piece( just slightly modified) has been in and out of my custom console many times today and didn't get scratched up.

As Mooser said re the contacts/grounds

 

Very nice! The only thing you really need to be careful of (when painting those dash items) is to leave bare metal where electrical contact is made...either for lamp sockets or for grounding wires/terminals.

 

Home depot and Lowes sell 3M blue tape for sensitive areas. I have used it many times with no problems.

 

Eastwood Cad or Detail paint was used and as mentioned you must keep the area around the bulb sockets metal to achieve a good ground.
ZIO

 

Thanks for all the replys and for mentioning the ground issue. I'll do a little paint removal around the grounds and the light socket holes. I'll get some of the better tape and stay away from the metallic paint if I don't have time to let it dry for a week or more.

Again, thanks! Y'all the best!

Gus

 

I thought I was the only one that rubs the sticky part of the tape on my clothes to remove some of the stick but it actually works if you are working on fresh paint . Our local paint stores also sell a green masking tape for fresh paint . Great for two toning.

 

Richard454

Can you explain more about how you use your toaster oven?

 

I actually started baking paint when I was a kid and was building metal bodied model cars. My mom baked everything at 350º so that's what I tried...the paint was nice and dry but looked like crap!!! Sort of brown even though it was suppose to be orange!!! Anyway- turned the temp all the way down (200) and I was able to paint the car and start putting it together the same day.

I do this all the time for small METAL stuff. I don't preheat the toaster oven-and just set it at 210º- it's digital and shuts off after 30 minutes.

Now it will depend on your oven- 175-180 would be a good place to start.

When it's cooled- 15min or so- you can even buff it out w/ compound its so cured.

Often will use scrap cardboard to paint screw/bolt heads- the cardboard gets a little crisp but nowhere near catching on fire.

Try it out- and report back to us!!!

Richard

 

That's sounds like an interesting process. I may have to try that. Paint then cure!

 

I picked-up some of the 3M blue tape for sensitive surfaces and it worked very well, even on the metallic brushed nickel paint.