I'm in the process of restoring my dash. Purchased both new lower dash pads and a new center gauge bezel. Reassembled both lower dash pads and the center gauge bezel. I started reinstalling the dash by starting with dash cover, then the driver side lower pad, then the center bezel, and then the passenger side lower dash pad. I've done a search on the forum and read a number of threads on the problem with reproduction dash pads. Mine appears to have the same problem as most. The pads are too wide and by the time you install the last pad (passenger side) the dash is about 1/2 to 3/4 too wide.

I've also tried installing both the pads then trying to wedge the center gauge bezel between them. Still same problem!! The wiring harness is installed at the correct location with the harness over the steering column. The steering column is out of the car. Everything behind the driver side pad is very tight but doesn't look like anything is holding the pad in the wrong location.

Anybody found a solution for this problem? I still have both of my lower dash pads but they are in really bad shape. The center gauge bezel is heavily pitted and scratched so it's also in really bad shape.

I got sooooo frustrated today that I just turned the light out and left the garage. I knew if I kept going, I would break something.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Gus

 

Did you compare the widths of the originals to the widths of the new parts (forareference to seewhat's not correct)?

Could you post a pic of the original passenger pad laying beside the reproduction pad so we can see/compare them?

If you don't want to return the parts for a refund.................

How about using a heat gun to peel back the covering on the passenger-pad an inch where it contacts the bezel........then cut 1/4" off the edge of the BACKING........then apply fresh adhesive to the backing and press the cover onto it again to give it a finished look.

If the passenger pad looks/turns-out good............do the same modification to the driver's pad.

 

I feel your pain. Probably the hardest thing to do on a C3 is work on the dash even if it is stock parts but the aftermarket parts are a total nightmare when it comes to fit. I can only tell you that the easiest way that I have found is to install the drivers side first , then the center section,then shoehorn the passenger side in . Trying to put the center section in last will sometimes break the top section if you try to force it. After the new parts are in there for a while they will relax a bit an hopefully make them fit better later .

 

And one other thing.......leave the two new pads in a room that is above 90*F for 4-5 hours to let the heat soak thru them so they will flex more......then try to install them immediately before they cool down.

 

FWIW: Unless your originals are beyond use, restore/redye them and put them back in.

 

Hi Gus,
Trying to understand what you're seeing.
What happens if you the install the center gauge bezel and then measure to each side….to the hinge pillar… is the dimension the same?
What I'm getting at is that there's no way you're going to be able to adjust for 1/2" to 3/4" on ONE side… but maybe 1/4 to 3/8" on each side.
But you'll need to be sure the gauge bezel is centered.
???
Regards,
Alan

 

Yes, Gus, check the measurements as Alan suggests. I've found that the new parts will measure slightly larger than the old pads, due to age and the old stuff is well settled and squished in. I used a heat gun to soften all my new dash pads, making them pliable to fit in. They will go in snug, but OK. When they cool down, everything will be tight. Go easy on the heat, feeling your way along.

 

First, I want to thank everyone for the help! I'm still majorly steamed and did not spend much time in the garage last night. I did pull the original dash pads back out and compared them to the reproduction units. Both of the new pads are still somewhat installed in the car so it was hard to do a serious comparison but it did not look like the new pads were wider.

Correct me if I'm wrong but you have to install the shifter console as part of the gauge bezel install. It slides under the center gauge bezel and secures to the u-shaped bracket that attaches to the floor. I can clearly understand that the center gauge bezel must be in the very center of the dash to allow the console and related parts to line-up.

I did consider the idea of peeling back the vinyl and remove some of the plastic to make the panels narrower. I've never messed with this type of vinyl install so what type of adhesive would you use to re-secure the vinyl?

If I install the center gauge bezel first then try to mate the two dash panels to it, the panels may end-up sticking out past the hinge pillar a little, maybe a 1/4 to 3/8 inch, maybe less if I'm lucky. Will this interfere with the door panel? I don't have the door panels installed so not sure how much clearance I have. I can apply some thin spacers to help secure the end of the dash panels to the hinge pillar clips. The two screws that hold the end will help pull the end in tight but the speed clips that secure the screws will only take so much torque.

Again, thanks for the help. I'm not giving up. I will make this work just don't want to break something or end up with something that looks wrong/stupid.

Gus

 

Gus.. the issue is is usually limited to the passenger side pad. From what I understand it's being re-tooled too.

But.. you're only 70 miles from me.. can you trailer the car up here? I feel sure Kevin can get those pads to work for you.

 

I also had some serious fit problems with the fit on a drivers side panel on a 68 but that was about ten years ago . They might have corrected that by now . ( But I doubt it ) .

 

Yep.. they have corrected it. The left side sub-straight was completely re-tooled a few years back.

 

Been tied-up this week and not able to get into the garage. Plus, I needed a little down-time away from the car. I will be in the garage tomorrow.

Both lower pads are semi installed. All wires, cable, etc. connected and a couple of screws holding them in place. I'm going to try to loosen them, keeping the wires and cables attached, push them towards the doors and try and install the center gauge cluster/bezel first. Do you have to install the shifter console at the same time or can you slip it under the center gauge cluster later? I'm concerned that everything will be too tight to get the shifter console in position.

Thanks

Gus

 

Hi Gus,
I really feel the shifter console needs to be in place.
If it's not there's really nothing to support the weight of the gauge bezel and radio which will cause it to sag down and also have the bottom move towards the rear.
Regards,
Alan

This picture shows how that weight is supported by the shifter console.

 

Alan

I agree that the shifter console is needed to help support the gauge bezel but the u-shaped bracket that attaches to the floor/tunnel will carry a lot of the weight. I'm more concerned about finally getting the dash to fit and then the need to try and install the shifter console. The dash is going to be very tight and the gauge bezel is not going to move much to slip the shifter console between the gauge bezel and the u-shaped bracket. It might work if you leave all of the dash a little loose. I do agree that the gauge console has to be perfectly centered for everything else to work.

I still have my original shifter console but plan on replacing it. I haven't ordered a new one yet. I'm trying to do this in phases and have spent a ton of cash on the dash. I still have the steering column in pieces and need to order a box full of parts for it. The Vette tax is killing me!! After the steering column, my next phase is the console, then the seats, then the door panels, then the whatever! Just glad most of the exterior is done. Hard to do this and have the wife keep me around a little longer.

Again, thanks so much for the support.

Gus

 

Hi Gus,
People have reported that the reproduction shifter consoles aren't everything they could be. So you might want to consider that in your plan.
Might you be able to use your original?
You're right replacing interior parts get's expensive quickly!
Regards,
Alan

 

There is a trick to installing the new shifter console Alan... That one I do know because it came out of my playbook..

Gus... I wish I could get hold of that car of yours. I know Kevin can get those pads to fit.

On another note: We've been selling quite a few of the AK dash pads and I asked Tommy today if there was any negative feedback from them.. He said there was none.. So that might be another option Gus.

Ernie

 

Ernie

I'm going to try again this weekend. I may have to bring you the car. I'll have to borrow a trailer and a truck but not a problem.

Gus

 

I hope you get it Gus... If you don't just let me know.

 

Got it!!

I tried the center gauge bezel first but no luck. Pulled the left panel partially out and removed the courtesy light bracket because it was hitting the hood release bracket. Modified the hood release bracket for some clearance and reinstalled the left panel. The extra clearance allowed the panel to shift more to the left and then allowed the center gauge bezel to be installed in the exact center of the dash. The right panel went in easy. I still don't have the shifter console installed. I still need to order a new one. My existing shifter console is broken and in terrible shape.

Now to finish the steering column and get it reinstalled then finish the console. I might get the interior finished by the start of summer.

Thanks for all of the help!

Gus

 

Hi Gus,
Well Done!
Must have a couple of pictures soon!
Regards,
Alan