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I have to replace my windshield because of a long crack.
Before getting a pro to do it (or maybe attempting to do it myself), I figured I would remove the most obvious parts and assess what I am up against in terms of rust.
I removed what was obvious to me and now have a few questions:
1/How does one remove the chrome trim on the outside?
2/At which stage of the removal should it be done?
3/ Should I just drill out the 2 rivets at the end of the T bar to remove the chrome center piece?
4/ What do be people use when putting that part back? Rivets or screws?
Here are a couple of pictures.
The crack and external chrome trim I need to remove.
the rivets on the far right.
I have the Assembly manual and the shop manual and the Hayne stuff. None is clear enough for me.
Hi j,
And the YEAR is…..?
The large ss piece doesn't need to be removed to replace the windshield.
Begin by removing the a-pillar weather strip and it's ss retainer; both sides
You'll then see the screws that hold the ss reveal moulding to the a-pillars. Take the reveal moulding off; both sides.
This will allow you to remove the long thin strip across the windshield header that's right at the glass. Be very careful that you don't bend or kink it.
This strip is held in place by 'tabs' that seat in hidden clips.
People use very 'trim tools' to release the trim from the clips.
I use a plastic putty knife to gently and carefully pry the trim up.
Look in your AIM for these pieces and their fasteners. In the 71 AIM it UPC 1 asm, Sheets F8, F9 and F10.
Hopefully this will get you started.
Regards,
Alan
Since your window is already cracked i would suggest using a window removal wire kit. Had your windshield not been cracked i would have suggested swapping the steel wire with weed wacker plastic wire. It will break a few times as it heats up but will not damage the window or surrounding frame. Cuts through the adhesive like butter.
It is a 76 (manual, L48).
Thanks for your instructions Alan, I managed to remove the side moldings and the other parts which were on the top of them.
I am slowly learning to read the drawings in the AIM and things are getting less muddy.
Currently, I am fighting with the clips you mentioned.
Do you pry the clips by putting the knife between the windshield and the trim port or between the trim part and the center support?
I can see some rust and for peace of mind, and while I am at it, I will remove the center support T trim piece. Hopefully, I can clean the rust and paint it again. Which brings me back to these rivets at the end of the center support bar: do you drill them out?
Hi J,
Glad you got the a-pillar ss trim off!
I put the PLASTIC blade between the trim and glass. Twist the blade which 'should' start to lift the trim piece.
The Willcox site has some good information including showing the trim tool that many people use.
I use the plastic blade because I seemed to have good luck with it.
Regards,
Alan
What was the cause of the crack? Did you strike it? Body flex? Rust or weakened bird cage? If it's structural, you'll have to address that issue before replacing the glass.
I had not thought of Willcox videos! Thanks, he is usually my first port of call for these things...
The plastic putty knife I used may be a bit on the wide side. I inserted and twisted all a long, gently, but no luck.
I may have been too gentle.
I bought the car with the cracked windshield. The PO was living in a rural area with 2 miles of gravel road to clear before hitting some asphalt. I suppose it happened back then. I knew I would have to do something about it in the future but it was not urgent, there is no safety inspection where I used to live. Now, new place, new rules = safety inspection to clear... Not a bad thing, just a bad timing: I don't have much spare time.
Below are a few pics of my progress so far. Years of dirt accumulated and a few suspect patches of rust make me think that I ought to remove the center support T bar and check underneath.
I really hope this is only going to be surface rust with a couple of patches to fix... The rest of the structure is fine.
If you decide to use the the metal tool to pull the clips open so the top trim will pop up, it will work fine since your windshield is already cracked. I recommend replacing those clips before putting the trim back, however, as the tool can bend them. Like Alan said do not bend the trim or it will not sit flush against the new windshield.
I made the mistake of trying to remove my top trim piece after installing it to try and reshape it to fit my windshield better. Ended up buying two windshields. I never got it to fit correctly and wish I had experimented with the fit while my windshield was out. Now I have some slight gaps, but am afraid to go at it again. Maybe some day I will try with a plastic blade like Alan said.
Also, I removed the dash pad before cutting out the windshield so I would not damage the pad. I put the pad back in place before installing the new windshield. Be careful not to crack the place where the clips attach to the front of the pad if you go that route. Need to pull back first on the pad and not up.
One thing leads to another: new speakers in pad, new dash lights, then new stereo... all because of a cracked windshield.
I did glass for many years, and although I can't recall the last time I did a windshield in a C3, the way the clips catch is pretty straightforward. IMHO the simplest / cheapest tool for this is about the easiest to use.
Drag the tool under the moulding with it slightly canted to allow one of the points to lead. You'll feel when you reach a clip. Gently pry back and twist the tool slightly and it should pop up. Then just work your way across. If it doesn't come up easy and the windshield has been replaced before, it could have some glue ooze out holding it in place. You can cut that with a utility knife by gently dragging it under the moulding.
Plastic sticks are also helpful to create a gap on a tight fitting moulding. Most glass shops will have these and would probably give you one if you asked nicely. They're usually a "giveaway" from the glass distributors.
Wire will cut through the sealant except on the lower edge. It's difficult to draw the wire along that side due to access. Glass professionals use a reciprocating flat, flexible tool, and approach from the inside of the car. There is no need to remove the dash using that tool. Call a glass shop and ask if they'll do it for a reasonable fee.
Thanks for everybody's input.
I bought the tool recommended by Jim and it made my life a lot easier. After spending 2 unsuccessful evenings without the proper tool, that steel arrow with the handle did the trick.
It was still quite difficult and I cracked the windshield at several other places: note, I now have even more respect for people removing a windshield without breaking it!
I believe I still had the original windshield and years of dirt, some excess sealant and some rust made my life a bit more challenging.
Hopefully, this weekend I should be able to remove the windshield and the 2 corner trims (these are most likely hiding a bit of rust).
From where do you start the wire to separate the windshield?
Hi J,
I started the wire in the center off the bottom of the windshield.
In my case I pushed it through the sealer from the inside of the car.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Anywhere you can work thru the least amount of glue is best!
If you need to "create" that spot, cut the glue vertically up against the edge of the glass. You can then use a narrow, sharp chisel or small flat bladed screwdriver to dig the glue out of that spot. All that will be left is what's under the glass itself. After you poke it thru, wrap it around a short piece of thick dowel to use as a handle.
If you do wire it out, be sure that your "inside" helper is holding the wire as close to parallel to the glass as possible. That will keep the hot wire off of the dash pad and "a" pillar mouldings.
The wire is definitely safer, but another option if you're not trying to save the windshield is to use a cold knife.
How you hold the blade "handle" sets the angle of the cut, and you pull with the other handle. Before you cut with it, use the utility knife to cut the sealant that's against the glass edge. That way you're only cutting what's below the glass with the cold knife and the sealant "bulge" outside the glass helps to hold the knife in place. It is easy to make a mess - the force needed can be high, and the blade can break thru the glass so be careful.
Think "ballistic." Before you pull, think of what's going to happen if the knife breaks out and let that set the direction you pull.
BTW - Alan is correct on pushing the wire thru. Push from the inside to the outside. If you can find it, there is a specific wire to use. It's braided and more resistant to breaking that a solid wire.
I plan on stopping by Harborfreight: they have a kit with the recommended wire and handles.
Protect the dash, the paint on the car, safety glasses and cutting gloves for me, heat gun and a lot of patience... Sounds like a fun weekend in perspective
My main concern is whatever I will find underneath in terms of rust. A rusty cage would delay severely my plans to drive the car!
I will keep updating and posting pictures of the progress. Who knows, it may end up helping somebody else (or me if there is a next time).
I spent a few hours during the weekend trying to remove the windshield.
Cutting the old butyl was tough!
A couple of spots resisted and were difficult to access. Wanting results before the end of the weekend, I decided to push through it and break the windshield out: it is already cracked so...
Windshields are strong!
I managed to break it out and now I am left with a top corner and bottom glass bit to remove.
I tried removing the corner trims but they are not moving.
Next is finishing cleaning the glass from the windshield, remove the corners and assess the rust status.
Windshield removal quetsions
