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Hey you beat me to the punch with Eastwood CAD paint. Anyway the half shafts were cleaned with a wire wheel, then wet sanded with 400 grit and then clear coated. Many folks do paint them though and they also look good. Most of the black is #1613 Krylon Semi Flat which comes very close to original things painted black. I found Dupi Color also has some gun metal color that shows well for the raw steel look.
RVZIO
Oh yeah the #1613 needs to be from an industrial supply place. The hardware version is not the same.
I'll check that out that Krylon and Duplicolor locally here. I like being able to get stuff off of the shelf if I can instead of ordering it. Just noticed your footnote about the industrial supply. I'll check and see if I have a supplier in my area. I was gonna start priming parts today with the Eastwood 2k epoxy primer but the wind is too strong outside. Don't have an indoor area to do any painting.
Jim
Primed all of the parts with Eastwood 2k Epoxy. Going to put on the top coats this week and then I can start rebuilding bearings and pressing bushings in.
Primed all of the parts with Eastwood 2k Epoxy. Going to put on the top coats this week and then I can start rebuilding bearings and pressing bushings in.
Hey Teamo, looks better then hanging laundry. Very nice and also rewarding. I always like working with clean stuff.
RVZIO
I ordered and received 6 cans of the Krylon 1613. I painted the black parts with it today. I am very happy with the sheen and color. Also had a can of Duplicolor DA 1612 machinery gray on the shelf. I used that on the gray parts. It is a nice color gray to use and looks similar to the pictures of the Quanta that I have seen. I'll post some pictures of the finished products when they are done drying.
Hi T,
The Krylon #1613 is very nice to use. I really depend on it!
Because it's lacquer and not enamel you can vary the look of the parts you're painting if you wish by varying how close you hold the can to the part and also by how much paint you put on the parts.
This is useful for things like small brackets for example that were originally coated by dipping and are a little shinier than the usual black painted parts. A little more paint, and applied a little 'wetter', can give the part more sheen than if the coat is thinner and the can is held back a bit so the paint is a little drier when it meets the part.
You can even add a 'run' or 'sag' if you want!
I'll be interested to see your results in your pictures!
Regards,
Alan
Well, I'm back at it with the leaf spring. I installed the 10 leaf spring and the car was sitting way too high. I know that it will settle some when I drive it but it was way up and I don't think it will settle that much. I bought a good used 9 leaf from a forum member who was moving out of the country. So it's back to the cleaning and painting phase. I sandblasted the smaller sections that would fit in my blast cabinet and the longer sections got cleaned up with a sanding flap disk. A coat of primer and I am using the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Gray as recommended in a forum members post. I have to say I do like the shade of this gray for the spring.
The new spring is in and I think it is sitting higher than the original 10 leaf. I think I'll need to try the longer bolt solution which I was trying to avoid. The problem is that they don't sell the 8" bolts with a castle nut and cotter pin setup. The bolts that I have seen advertised have a nylock nut instead of a castle nut. Maybe they hold fine but I would feel much better having a cotter pin. I think maybe my options are limited to buying the bolts and finding a castle nut to fit and drilling the hole for the pin myself. I've searched the internet without much luck. Does anyone know where to source the longer bolts with a castle nut setup?
Hi T,
Have you moved or driven the car at all since you put the 9 leaf in place?
Because of the geometry of the rear suspension when you let the car down the tires grab the pavement and don't let the wheels/tires move slightly outward (into their normal camber position) until the car is at least rolled forward and backward or preferably driven some.
If the 9 leaf is the standard spec spring you shouldn't need a longer bolt.
I'm pretty sure that the spring is a standard 9 leaf. I haven't been able to move it at all, it is up on stands. I still have to tear into the front suspension and rebuild all of that so I probably won't have it back on the ground and rolling for quite some time. I'll get some pictures tomorrow and post them.
Thanks
Here is some pictures of the spring installed. It looks correct according to pictures that I've seen. I installed the differential heat shield and the cat converter heat shield after these pictures were taken. Had to drop the trans cross member to get the bolts in for the cat shield.
Thank you Alan. Even with all of my painting and cleaning you can see that there is some rust starting to come back on some of the bolt heads. If I had it on the road then it wouldn't bother me but just sitting in the garage it tends to get moisture from humidity. Well I guess I can't go crazy worrying about it or I'd never move forward. Those yellow marks are from a paint marker that I've been using on the bolts. I put a dab on them when they are torqued down so that I know that it's been done. Those rusty rims will get done when it's time for new tires. Just about Wrapped up with the rear end and then it's off to the front end work.
Hi T,
Dealing with rust is an on going problem.
And of course using the car as it was intended speeds up the deterioration/rusting of parts that have been restored.
Regards,
Alan
When I first began working on my car in the late 80's I thought if I removed the rust from fasteners and other unpainted parts it would take 20 years for them to get rusty again... little did I realize that the rust would happen over night.... nor did I realize what wanting a car that doesn't rust would lead to.
Thanks all for the encouragement. I have a few new photos and questions. Here is the correct muffler hangers and the cat converter hanger along with a good used heat shield that I bought on ebay. The photo with the missing bolt is for the seat belt reinforcement cable.
1. Does anyone know the size of the bolt that goes into this seat belt reinforcement cable bracket to the crossmember?
2. The AIM appears to show the parking brake cable threaded through the cat converter rear mount bracket. Does this look correct?
3. Does the parking brake cable go under or over the seat belt reinforcement cable?
Sure does!