I have a 75 L48 with 8k original miles. I put her away for the winter back in october as the brakes were getting weak so decided it would be m winter project. Anyways, long story short I rebuilt the master brake cylinder today and decided to test the brakes. Went to start her and the car kicked backwards like the clutch peddle wasnt pressed. I had it to the floor. So i tried a few more times with the same results. I adjusted the linkage under the master brake cylinder but cant seem to fix the issue. Any ideas? I want to drive her while we still have decent weather!

 

The clutch disc can "rust" itself to the flywheel face, if you have not driven the car in quite a few months. I had mine do this, but the car would not turn over it at for me. Lou..

 

I would not keep trying to use the stater...because MORE damage can result.

I would press on the clutch pedal AND CONFIRM that the clutch fork is doing what it supposed to do...and then I would push the car or rock it back and forth to see if you can get the disc to release.

DUB

 

I managed to get in neutral with car off and start her. However no matter whoch direction I moved the clutch adjuster I couldnt get into gear without grinding (never made it into gear as didnt want to damage anything). In neutral i was able to push the car. And I was able to watch the clutch fork move when the clutch was pushed.

Any suggestions?

 

Bump....any suggestions?

 

It has to be in gear when you push it to try to release the clutch.

 

Ok, will give it a try. Gotta rebleed the brakes, peddle goes to floor so I am going to spend my rainy sunday working on her.

 

So i rocked her back and forth in gear with clutch peddle depressed and not depressed to no luck. Any other suggestions or am I dropping the tranny and replacing the clutch? Have never done a clutch before or dropped the tranny in the vette. How big of a pain is it and can I leave the engine in or does it have to come out as well?

Thanks

 

It is a little bit of a pin...but if you can get it on a lift an have a transmission jack...that will help you GREATLY. ALSO...having some safety stands that you can place under the oil pan so when the transmission comes out...the engine does not tilt all the way to the firewall and stop....and possibly damage the distributor. Because it would be wise to disconnect the distributor cap and let it be loose or remove it completely.

SO...YES the engine can STAY...BUT it is at a price. And this is because with the engine in the car...REPLACING the PILOT BUSHING with a NEW pilot bushing that is the bronze type that is NON MAGNETIC!!!! REPEAT-----NON-MAGNETIC!!!!

And when you are installing the transmission AFTER you have CORRECTLY installed the clutch disc and the pressure plate and bellhousing with a NEW throw-out bearing....WHEN you go to slide the input shaft into the clutch disc and get it to go into your new pilot bushing...this is where you can screw up really easy and fast by ramming the transmission into the pilot bushing and thus cause for a burr to be created that will NOT ALLOW the input shaft of the transmission to spin freely and THUS it turns WITH the crankshaft..and you WILL NOT be able to get the transmission IN GEAR when the engine is running...BUT it will go into ALL gears when the engine is off due to the crankshaft is not moving. AND...when you get eh transmission to index into the clutch disc...DO NOT allow it to hang there....which is why you want a transmission jack or some other type of reliable device that can support the transmission at the correct angle needed to install it ....because if you allow the splines of the input shaft to hang on the splines of the clutch disc...you can distort the center of the disc..and have clutch issues right off the bat.

IF you remove the engine and transmission together...that may allow you to install the clutch and transmission with less stress on you do to possible not having the equipment that would aid you.

Make sure you TAKE THE TIME to EVENLY pull down (tighten)the pressure plate when installing it. So you will need to tighten each bolt just a little bit and tighten them in the specific pattern for tightening down a 6 bolt pattern.

And the reason when you got the transmission in NEUTRAL....and tried to get it into gear once you got the engine running...and it WOULD NOT and you got the 'grinding sounds'...is because the clutch disc and input shaft are stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate...and the crankshaft is turning and the transmission CAN NOT allow you to get it into gear IF the input shaft is turning.

DUB

 

If you have to jack it up, and you are a large person, or don't have a lot of strength, there could be problems. The transmission is heavy and removal is not too bad. Installation can be hard if the clutch disc is not centered properly, you will never get it together, providing you have the strength to lift it. Dub might know if it is possible for the clutch disc to also rust and seize on the input shaft. If that happens you might not get it apart laying on your back. I would keep rocking it to try to free up the clutch a few more times. Good luck and use quality jack stands. I also have used a bottle jack to support the back of motor rather than let it drop. Do a search on YouTube for clutch replacement videos, you should see a lot of good information there too. I also use threaded rods that fit into the bell housing. When installing the transmission I lift the transmission onto the studs to give me time to rest my body as it is miserable to do this on your back. Find a friend to help if possible.

 

I have a 4 post lift in my shop and all the tools and air tools I need. If I have to go that route I will by a tranny stand to make life easier. Just need to get my buddy to finish putting new fuel lines and tank in his 69 stingray so I can get access to my lift. Lol

 

That will make it a lot easier!! I picked one up at Harbor Freight, worked properly and a lot safer. How do you plan on getting it on the lift? I too have a four post lift and don't like the thought of trying to push my dead car onto the lift when that happens. The clutch disc might have failed, I had a spring break and it locked up on my 78.

 

Sadly it will be the push method...but I might use a come along to help make sure it deosnt roll back as I have a slight incline to go up to get to the bay door where the lift is. (I have a 24x30 shop and the lift is on the side and my main door is on the end...makes it easy to get her in and out and still work on a second car at the same time).

I am thinking of trying one more trick, jack the rear up and put stands under her. Block the fronts. Put her in 4th and start her...then holding clutch to floor, hit the brakes hard and see if the force of the driveshafts and wheels spinning is enough to break the clutch loose from the rust. I lack the ***** to do the next step if that fails...point car down road with rear raised, start her and let wheels spin and then rapidly lower rear with clutch pressed and gas pressed holding 2500 rpms....I just cant brong myself to dropping a vette like that. Lol

 

That sounds like a skit for bugs bunny and Wiley coyote! Don't rev it too much with rear end off the ground. Make sure your brakes are working and possibly a change of underwear might be in order! Take videos of this please.

 

I am not going to do the drop the jack and slam the read end down with the tires spinning. I will let the tires turn while on the jack stands. There are videos of the car slam on youtube...thats where I got the idea from as its part of a thread on getting a rusted clutch to release. But for me, slamming the rear end down with the tires turning on a 41 yr old all factory installed original is NOT an option. I would rather pull the tranny.

 

YES...it IS possible that the clutch disc splined shaft has seized to the splined shaft of the transmission....anything is possible and that is why some clutch companies supply a small amount of nickel seize for just that reason.

I AGREE...I would remove the transmission instead of the 'other' method you mentioned.

DUB

 

So I called the local corvette and classic car restoration shop hoping they did clutches...they dont but they recommend a shop in town. So I called them to price a new clutch and resurface of fly wheel. $700. So after doing the math ($300 for tranny jack and $150 for clutch putting me at $450 plus another $40 to resurface the flywheel totaling $490) I am thinking of having them do the clutch and saving myself from talking dirty to the car and tranny as I fight to change the clutch. Does the price seem right? I was kinda figuring closer to $850. But I dont know what crap costs as I do most work myself on all my cars.

And how do I know if I have the 10.5" or 11" clutch??

 

More than a likely you have an 11" clutch.

About the price...I can not comment on that due to NOT knowing who's clutch they are selling you.

And re-surfacing the flywheel...The older these cars are getting and not knowing how many clutches have been in them and HOW many times the flywheel has been surfaced...and HOW MUCH material has been removed off the flywheel.

I prefer to install a new flywheel and clutch/pressure plate that has been balanced from the clutch manufacturer that I use.

DUB

 

My clutch and fly wheel are original. I literially have 8k miles total on the car. I have all documentation..from hand written order form, window stickers, vehicle inspection reports, etc.

 

My clutch and fly wheel are original. I literially have 8k miles total on the car. I have all documentation..from hand written order form, window stickers, vehicle inspection reports, etc.