Purchase Opinion
http://newyork.craigslist.org/stn/cto/5617567735.html
Located on S.I. I looked at this car and it is a real LT1 (L in vin), but has a NOM, and was originally orange and is now red. It is a nice car, owner is honest and it may be worth your time to see it since it would be a good cruiser in your price range. Good luck, Lenny
(I will have nearly that much in my '68 basketcase project when I am finished).
So.....basically you will be saving yourself tons of work by purchasing a quality road-ready driver.
for a little more $ appears to be much more car.
motor in the blue one looks like its been together a long long time or someone took out a hot one and dropped that in?
Last edited by cv67; Jun 5, 2016 at 03:23 PM.
Here's mine:


"When he was sprung from federal prison after three years for a racketeering charge, Michael DeLucia vowed he'd stay honest."
Welcome!
First Post!
You mention that you reviewed the birdcage. I'm wondering if this 'glob' of 'stuff' is actually covering up a hole? What do you think? Maybe just the result of sloppy windshield installation?
You need to be very diligent about looking for serious (deal breaking) rust on a 69 in this price range.
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; Jun 6, 2016 at 12:23 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Look at the radiator core support in front of the hood. If there is signs of repair or doesn't match with the rest of the car I would pass on it. Usually at the bottom of the core support there will be rust or cracks showing if the car has other concerns. Just a quick thing to look at.
Good Luck
RVZIO
Last edited by SB64; Jun 8, 2016 at 05:55 PM.
Ideally I'd like a '69 Coupe (flexible on engine this year), with side pipes. But those seem to fall outside my budget plan.
I found a bit of info on engine ratings that may help. Not as much difference between '71 and '72 engine power as many believe. The following is a cut/paste, and I think it is correct (with the possible exception of the stated torque rating on the '72 LT-1 engine?):
"1972 was the first year for SAE net horsepower ratings, as opposed to the gross horsepower ratings which were used previously. Net horsepower ratings were lower because the engines were rated with all the necessary items such as the alternator, water pump and mufflers attached.
The 1971 LT1 350 engine was rated at 330 hp (or 275 hp net) and 360 ft-lbs of torque, while the 1972 LT1 was rated at 255 hp and 280 ft-lbs of torque. The LS5 454 engine, previously rated 365 hp (285 hp net) and 465 ft-lbs of torque at was now rated at 270 hp and 380 ft-lbs of torque. The base 350 engine, rated at 270 horsepower (210 hp net) in 1971, was now rated at 200 hp and 360 ft-lbs of torque."
I just picked up a '72 C3 with the base engine last week. It's a 4 spd car and I live at about 5k feet altitude. It has sufficient power, but virtually none of the sb cars (or even 'smog' BBs) from this era were all that 'fast' compared to today's cars, including the LT-1s. But they are infinitely cool IMO.
You could certainly modify the internals on a C3 that you pick up, while leaving it looking stock, if you're really looking for some additional hp. But keep in mind that many of today's 'pedestrian' cars are faster than the cars of the early '70s' era. Buy one because you love the style, the exhaust note, the nostalgia, the fun, the passion, etc., but don't expect them to be really fast compared to current cars.
We have a '15 C7 that rips. But my son and I went for a top-off drive in the C3 tonight just because.
I drove it home today. Such a different feel from anything I've ever driven before. Going to have the fluids changed and general service done tomorrow. Really excited to have a full day with it. Thank you everyone for your input; on the site in general, it helped a lot. Let me know if anyone has questions.






















