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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 11:47 AM
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Default Cleaning method.

Just seeking the advice from those that's been through this...........looking for the best cleaning method (s) in the below pictured areas. Ive just about got everything stripped out and am ready to clean and paint. There's glue and what I believe to be sound deadening material, along with mold and mildew from soggy carpet. I'm sure I can wire wheel the metal........but the fiberglass, it dont want to gouge it up. I have a heat gun and putty knife if that's a better method. That sound proofing is thick in some areas, but its nasty with the consistency of tar. Not going to be an enjoyable experience, but got to be done. Large container of elbow grease available.





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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 12:51 PM
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Hi 73,
I used lacquer (lots of it) thinner and plastic paint scrapers.
The 'slower' the lacquer thinner you can find the better because it stays wet a little longer.
Lot's of effort and time, but not difficult to do.
Regards,
Alan














Last edited by Alan 71; Jun 15, 2016 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 03:32 PM
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Thanks Alan. Those are amazing pictures. :-)
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 11:12 PM
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I don't have any amazing photos like Alan...

But found that Goof Off professional worked wonders for me. The stuff in the metal gallon can NOT the plastic bottle stuff!!!

Can be found at Home Depot & Lowes for about $20/gallon. Oh-do use rubber gloves!!!



I got underneath the car pretty clean...



Front fenderwell

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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 11:45 PM
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I'd say that did a pretty good job!
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 09:27 AM
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You might try Citri-strip. It did a good job removing carpet adhesive from the inside of my '82 911sc.

Carter
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 12:18 PM
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I made some progress. This is some messy stuff. Looks to be oil based. Very gummy in texture and has collected a lot of dirt and grit. Maybe it was the best sound proofing they had at the time? Glad to get it up and out. Had to use a heat gun and scraper, then follow up with lacquer thinner. Ive found loose or missing rivets, and cracked seams, and what looks like a big mess on passenger side. Bondo smeared haphazardly over the seams.....couldn't be factory job, eh? Looks like I'm going to be real busy with this thing. Thankfully, nearly done with chassis.







Yeah....the gas tank is inverted......went to install sending unit, only to discover gas tank kit didnt in clude retaining ring.....:-/
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 03:43 PM
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Hi 73,
The bonding material used to join the under body panels together wasn't neatly or carefully applied.
The forward right side of the transmission tunnel was modified in St.Louis by cutting out a piece of the underbody/tunnel and 'bonding' a 'bubble' in place to create clearance for the installation of the optional automatic transmission.
Is that what you're seeing?
The directions for doing this is even shown in the AIM in the option pages for the automatic transmission.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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Depends on what you are trying to accomplish...{NCRS pristine or clean enough to put new carpeting in}. But, what you've done so far is a very good accomplishment. Once rivets are secure, seams are sealed and rust is 'encapsulated' you should be ready to go.

That old sound deadening stuff is basically tar-soaked cardboard; and it did a pretty good job of getting rid of high frequency noises. Something like that placed in strategic locations (like done at the factory) and some good jute padding to insulate heat intrusion into the passenger area (also like done at factory) are cost-effective approaches to prepping the compartment for carpeting.
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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Thanks. I just want it clean before I start going back with carpet and interior. I wish I had the skill level to produce a NCRS consideration.....but I'm just a novice at this.
The bonding material used to join the under body panels together wasn't neatly or carefully applied.
Ok. That explains it then. That "bubble" on the passenger side has numbers on it, as well as a spot right behind the shifter cut out. Nothing corresponding to the vin number though. I do have an assembly manual, but haven't looked at the body section yet.... but I will. Thanks for the input. I welcome more, as I press on!
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Old Jun 19, 2016 | 05:36 PM
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That 'number' is the Job # for that vehicle on the line that day. It has no relevance to the VIN as it hadn't been assigned yet.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 03:11 PM
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Since you're "Down south"- you might look at spraying the interior w/ Lizardskin- as it will help big time in keeping the heat out.

DSCN4826 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

DSCN4833 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:56 PM
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I hadn't heard of that, but I googled it. Not terribly expensive, and I like the moisture barrier component. Got me considering it.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 73BBVette
I hadn't heard of that, but I googled it. Not terribly expensive, and I like the moisture barrier component. Got me considering it.
I also added "Zero Clearance" underneath the car to keep the heat out as well.




Taped the seams w/ 3M HVAC tape-




DSCN4075 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
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