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I have just got the body back on my 73 coupe. I have replaced the frame as well as installing repair channels that contain the #2 and 3 body mounts. I have installed all new body mounts/hardware.
Installing those channel inserts, result in about a 2 shim thickness built in for the 2 and 3 body mounts so I didn't use any shims there. I put 3 shims on the #1 and 4 positions.
I am now in the process of hanging the doors (which are new to the car BTW) and setting the gaps before I paint them. I have already painted the body.
I have yet to install the front frame extension and the radiator support so the front of the car is just sort of hanging there at present.
I got my door gaps set and they came out ok except at the front at the top. I have a gap which I can put the end of my pinky in. I got it to where it is about the same on each side.
I have read where you might be able to close the front top gap by adjusting the front of the body up with the radiator support/frame extension.
It seems to me with the front end still glued to the firewall that it might not be able to move closer to the door, especially with all new mounts and door hinge pins/bushings.
[B][/Based on others experience do you think that raising the front with the frame extension/radiator support will close that upper/front door gap?B]
I have thought about adding to the front edges of the doors to close the gap. I do have my original doors I could cut the front edges off of and use those to keep the contour right.
I know I will find out the answer pretty soon after I get the frame extension all cleaned up and painted, but this is bugging me and I figure some of you folks have been where I am.
I have just got the body back on my 73 coupe. I have replaced the frame as well as installing repair channels that contain the #2 and 3 body mounts. I have installed all new body mounts/hardware.
Installing those channel inserts, result in about a 2 shim thickness built in for the 2 and 3 body mounts so I didn't use any shims there. I put 3 shims on the #1 and 4 positions.
I am now in the process of hanging the doors (which are new to the car BTW) and setting the gaps before I paint them. I have already painted the body.
I have yet to install the front frame extension and the radiator support so the front of the car is just sort of hanging there at present.
I got my door gaps set and they came out ok except at the front at the top. I have a gap which I can put the end of my pinky in. I got it to where it is about the same on each side.
I have read where you might be able to close the front top gap by adjusting the front of the body up with the radiator support/frame extension.
It seems to me with the front end still glued to the firewall that it might not be able to move closer to the door, especially with all new mounts and door hinge pins/bushings.
[B][/Based on others experience do you think that raising the front with the frame extension/radiator support will close that upper/front door gap?B]
I have thought about adding to the front edges of the doors to close the gap. I do have my original doors I could cut the front edges off of and use those to keep the contour right.
I know I will find out the answer pretty soon after I get the frame extension all cleaned up and painted, but this is bugging me and I figure some of you folks have been where I am.
Sorry for the long build up to a short question.
Mark
Hi Mark, I could write a short story but you might want to take a look at my RVZIO69restore. Probably on page 2 or 3. You don't want the product (VPA) applied to the door. You would work on the fender for the most part. Go to the last part of my posts where I work on the doors with the guidance of Dub a professional on corvettes. The car should be sitting on the tires on the ground like it will be when completed. The core support should also be installed where it can be adjusted a little. Pictures of your situation would help.
The body mount shimming should be done when doors are on and core support and frame extensions. Let's see what you have and you can stand back a little when or if you take a picture.
RVZIO
I have just got the body back on my 73 coupe. I have replaced the frame as well as installing repair channels that contain the #2 and 3 body mounts. I have installed all new body mounts/hardware.
Installing those channel inserts, result in about a 2 shim thickness built in for the 2 and 3 body mounts so I didn't use any shims there. I put 3 shims on the #1 and 4 positions.
I am now in the process of hanging the doors (which are new to the car BTW) and setting the gaps before I paint them. I have already painted the body.
I have yet to install the front frame extension and the radiator support so the front of the car is just sort of hanging there at present.
I got my door gaps set and they came out ok except at the front at the top. I have a gap which I can put the end of my pinky in. I got it to where it is about the same on each side.
I have read where you might be able to close the front top gap by adjusting the front of the body up with the radiator support/frame extension.
It seems to me with the front end still glued to the firewall that it might not be able to move closer to the door, especially with all new mounts and door hinge pins/bushings.
[B][/Based on others experience do you think that raising the front with the frame extension/radiator support will close that upper/front door gap?B]
I have thought about adding to the front edges of the doors to close the gap. I do have my original doors I could cut the front edges off of and use those to keep the contour right.
I know I will find out the answer pretty soon after I get the frame extension all cleaned up and painted, but this is bugging me and I figure some of you folks have been where I am.
Sorry for the long build up to a short question.
Mark
Hi Mark, I could write a short story but you might want to take a look at my RVZIO69restore. Probably on page 2 or 3. You don't want the product (VPA) applied to the door. You would work on the fender for the most part. Go to the last part of my posts where I work on the doors with the guidance of Dub a professional on corvettes. The car should be sitting on the tires on the ground like it will be when completed. The core support should also be installed where it can be adjusted a little. Pictures of your situation would help.
The body mount shimming should be done when doors are on and core support and frame extensions. Let's see what you have and you can stand back a little when or if you take a picture.
RVZIO
The pictures are not the finished product but you get the idea.
[QUOTE=rvzio;1592490334]Hi Mark, I could write a short story but you might want to take a look at my RVZIO69restore. Probably on page 2 or 3. You don't want the product (VPA) applied to the door. You would work on the fender for the most part. Go to the last part of my posts where I work on the doors with the guidance of Dub a professional on corvettes. The car should be sitting on the tires on the ground like it will be when completed. The core support should also be installed where it can be adjusted a little. Pictures of your situation would help.
The body mount shimming should be done when doors are on and core support and frame extensions. Let's see what you have and you can stand back a little when or if you take a picture.
RVZIO
The pictures are not the finished product but you get the idea.[/QUO
If I do any fiberglass work to close the gap, it will have to be done on the door leading edge. The body has been painted, the doors have not. I can live with it the way it is, I have seen pictures of gaps way bigger than mine. I can't attach any current pics, my phone camera decided not to focus recently. I have been working on this car for 3 years now, I have had every nut, bolt and screw out. I understand about weight on wheels and installing radiator support and shimming. My question was can I expect to be able to close that gap by adjusting the front end up or not? I'll find out soon enough I guess. I just got the frame extension painted a few minutes ago. I will install it and the radiator support probably on Monday. Thanks for your input.
Hi Mark,
Here's an example of just the front edge of the door being built up with mat and resin.
Just the door was modified, BUT, you as can see some work WAS done on the fender TOO to improve the smooth transition from the door to fender.
You'll be unable to do this since the body has been painted. So building up the door with a good result will be a little more tricky.
Next time perhaps you'll fit the doors first and paint the body with the doors in place.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Getting into the fitting and sculpting the door gaps AFTER the car has been painted is just making me go
YES...it can be done because I have to do it when a door gets so baldy damaged on a car I restored and then I have to fit another door to it.....BUT....I usually do all my repair work on the body so the door will need little to no work due to the outer skin was made in a mold are basically the same...which is why I build up on the body and not the door. And..I also have to repair 'other peoples' work and have to build up on the door when the rest of the car has perfect paint..SO..it can be done.
But if you are wanting to get the gaps precise...then you are now forced to have to build on the doors..and that is not going to be an easy process due to the door(s) will have to go on and off numerous times and then protecting your painted front clip and rear quarters to get the gap correct.
Hopefully the doors are flush. That would be my greatest concern.
I would not mess around with any of the body mounts in order to try to save you time on the door fitting due to the possibility that body damage can occur and THEN you would be REALLY hating it.
Body Adjustment/Door Gap
