Majestic_C7

Hi guys. I'm seriously looking at buying this 1968 convertible and would love some honest advice. It appears to be a true survivor in really good condition:


http://www.motorsnorthwest.com/web/u...gton/30432720/


They are willing to sell it at $32,000. I'm wondering a couple things and could really use some expert advice.


First: Assuming everything is in good to great condition as it appears and as they say, is that a good price for that vehicle?


Second: Is that going to be a solid collector's vehicle that could be expected to appreciate over the years (I'm planning on keeping this thing until I'm too old to drive it anymore, then giving it to my son).


Third: How much should a I expect a survivor vehicle with 50k miles on it start to break down in the near future? It seems likely that systems will likely start to fail on a vehicle this old and I'm wondering if I am getting into more than I bargained for.


Fourth: Would I actually be better off going with a vehicle that has already been restored? I'm only able to do light mechanical work myself, everything else would have to go to a garage.


Thank-you for helping with these questions. I'm nowhere close to an expert on these old cars and really appreciate whatever advice that you guys can offer. I'm looking for something I can drive on the weekends during good weather and take to car shows with my son. But that's not a small amount of money and I don't want to do something I'll regret.

Jeff_Keryk

I guess you know side pipes and gill inserts were 1969 options. It seems like a very nice car. As far as maintenance and up-keep, these cars are expensive. I believe it is important to buy the best car you can, especially body/paint as these are big bucks. Appreciation? Who knows? You are probably better in a nice no-load index mutual fund. Just my 2 cents...

530planeman

Ok first things first being a 68 owner.
No sting Ray in 68.If you are not able to verify matching #s engine,trans,rear end you should have someone do that along with other 68 Only (long list) components .I would be happy to pose any questions by phone to sellers if you would like
Other items you asked are hard to estimate.

As far as restoring car is worth more as a survivor and to have a quality restoration done you will spend more than the car is worth.
Wes

ddawson

Survivor! This Stingray is absolutely pure.
Very rare, not-messed-with, this vehicle has never been "restored."

Just so you know how far to trust the sells man. As pointed out added sidepipes and Gill inserts, Looks like they filled the original exhaust exit with something.

Are the valve covers original?

TMU

First: Assuming everything is in good to great condition as it appears and as they say, is that a good price for that vehicle? I’d have someone, who knows early C3s, thoroughly inspect the car for condition, originality and rust! If it checks out and is very nice throughout the price seems alright. Like the others have said there is already issues with the description.


Second: Is that going to be a solid collector's vehicle that could be expected to appreciate over the years (I'm planning on keeping this thing until I'm too old to drive it anymore, then giving it to my son). They hold their value but, the satisfaction of owning needs to significantly outweigh investment considerations or it’s not worth buying.


Third: How much should a I expect a survivor vehicle with 50k miles on it start to break down in the near future? It seems likely that systems will likely start to fail on a vehicle this old and I'm wondering if I am getting into more than I bargained for. You never know with an old hotrod, but if everything is in good condition now, and you only use occasionally, should not be too bad. If you’re going to put thousands of miles a year on it then yeah there will be issues that come up.


Fourth: Would I actually be better off going with a vehicle that has already been restored? I'm only able to do light mechanical work myself, everything else would have to go to a garage. I don’t think you’ll want to be taking your pristine, all original survivor, on many road trips.

Majestic_C7

Here's the response from the dealer. Not sure what to think.


This customer's information is accurate.
The side pipes came out six months after the owner bought the car new.
The side pipes were put on the Vette at the dealer. They are factory parts and were installed by a Chevrolet dealer and the body filer panels were installed at the same time. ( rear underside where the exhaust originally came out)
The chrome inserts were put on by the original owner also.
This car is a survivor and un-"modified". You have the information from the body chassis and engine block.
If one wanted to change exhaust back it is a $300 cost at Quality brake and muffler. The chrome can simply be removed.
This is a pure car and it will sell and the next owner will be very proud. No rush. Looks killer in the garage.

Alan 71

Hi M7,
The rear valance presently on the car is a fiberglass piece made by an aftermarket producer and is not a GM part.
You would have to know when this 68 was sold to know if the pipes were installed within 6 months of the car being purchased.
It's documented that the side exhaust option N14 wasn't available in 69 production until December 1968…. about 5 months after 68 production ended. I don't know when they became available as service parts.
All this is NOT enough reason to reject this car, BUT it is a good example of used car salesman HYPE and an indication that this car needs to be looked at by a person very familiar with 68 Corvettes to determine just what it IS, and what it's VALUE may be.
It actually looks like a nice car IN THE PICTURES.
Regards,
Alan

TMU

I suppose he can use it as a lawn ornament for the holidays.

7T1vette

I don't see any photos of the underside of the car. So, you basically know nothing...except that it's "purty".

Procrastination Racing

Under-chassis photos are lacking.

Need

• inside gas lid, both down on the tank and underside of lid
• overview shots of the front suspension front and rear
• overview shots of rear suspension front and rear
• shots of kickup frame where trailing arm enters and is bolted and shimmed, both sides
• shots of frame corners under rear of door, both sides
• shots of rear valence panel
• shots of front grill from below overall, left, and right sides
• shots of front valence and spoiler
• shots under the rear bumpers looking inside the bumpers
• shots facing the inside of the rear valence
• shots of each exhaust manifold
• shots of transmission and linkage
• shots of differential both sides
• shots of inside trailing arms

Chrome inserts don't just come out. There are screw holes there now that are not on an original.

Sidepipes going to under chassis exhaust would require the rear valence being changed and painted or repaired and painted, depending on what they did to fill the exhaust holes. This is why a better photo of that area is needed.

Top dash pad is faded and is noticeable compared to the dash panels. Carpet has some fade. The dash panels, door panels, seat covers, and console look too rich in color, compared to other sections.

Some parts of suspension and chassis parts appear to have been painted or cleaned up.

There is some items that indicate a possibility that the car was restored years ago and has sat mostly since then. A restoration in 1986 would mean it has aged 30 years now and many would assume it was just a well kept original survivor.

Where is the AIR pump on the engine? Are the exhaust manifolds plugged or replaced?

As to buying as an investment, that is what the seller has done. No one knows what the market will bring. There are only a few select cars that you can guarantee will increase in value.

Photos just don't replace eyes-on evaluation. You need to see it in person.

Lobzila

Thank you for even considering the 68. As others have pointed out, there are a few minor things different on the car. The one thing working against you that you may not have considered is that it being sold at a car lot. He is in the biz to make money. Or its on commission. Find or hire someone with experience to look at it. The pictures look great. I did notice a lot of cracked rubber suspension bushings in the pictures listed. Its also a small block car. Nothing wrong with that, but the big blocks bring more of a premium. This is not the type of car that sells everyday, its a buyers market. Also as you plan to own it forever (me too!), is this the Vette you want to own forever? Good luck.

Rescue Rogers

I personally wouldnt buy from a dealer. I think its a little high in price and its not a survivor, its modified. As soon as the owner puton the pipes and chrome it becane modified.

As far as lasting mechanically, its a vehicle with 50,000 miles. The only thing I would be concerned about is the bushings and seals failing due to age. On my 68, I replaced the hoses and the tail shaft bushing and seal. Have been driving it most of the spring/ summer. My only fear is other drivers and wildlife.

Ithink you can find a nice 68 like that from a member here for $25-$28,000 and not fear what the sales man is hiding. If you want this one, hire a 68 vette guru from here and have the sales man put it on a lift for you and remove thekick panels so you can see thebody mounts.

Good hunting!!!!!

Eljay

The seats don't look like leather?

Easy Mike

I love it! How can a person openly admit parts were added and changes made and continue to use the term "unmodified"? I suppose putting unmodified in parenthesis alleviates a guilty conscience.

Also obvious is that the dealership knows nothing about this car and simply passes on what they've been told.

gbvette62

It's a very pretty car, but don't let the shiny red paint sway you.

To start with, in spite of the selling dealer's claims that the car is "pure", "all-original" and "not-messed-with", the car is not completely stock or original.

As others have pointed out, the side pipes and fender louvers are not original, or correct for a 68 Corvette. Though not difficult, it's not a simple matter to reverse those modifications either.

The fender louvers will each have 2 holes in them (16 in total), where the well nuts where installed to attach the louver inserts. The side pipes will cost you a lot more than $300 the seller quoted, to replace. Besides the system, which will run $300 or more without labor, you'll need hangers and clamps ($75.00), exhaust tips ($45.00) and exhaust bezels ($80.00). You'll also need a pair of rocker moldings, which might be difficult to find. The 68 rockers are 2 piece, made up of an aluminum upper trim, and a fiberglass lower piece. The fiberglass pieces are available, at around $169 each, but the upper trim is not currently being reproduced, so you'd have to find good used ones, not an easy task. Luckily, it looks like the car does have it's original 68 rear valance panel, that someone just put a small filler piece in where the exhaust tips exit. You may just be able to remove those fillers, and install the exhaust bezels, instead of painting and replacing the rear valance panel.

As was also pointed out, the A.I.R. pollution system is missing. If you're really concerned about the car being correct and original, you'll want to replace it, and restored A.I.R. systems are expensive.

No one else has pointed this out yet, but the car appears to have 69-82 15x8 rally wheels, not the 15x7's, that came on 68's. The car also has had the fuel line cut and modified, using a rubber fuel hose. This would lead me to believe that the carb may have been replaced with a non stock carb? The grills also appear to be 69's, since 68's had a chrome edge on the fins of the grills.

Looking at how the door weatherstrip has worn the paint off of the lock pillar, I'd say that the car could still have it's original paint, but it really needs to be seen in person, to know for sure.

As far as maintenance and reliability, you might have a little better luck with a recently restored car, but in either case, your still talking about 45-50 year old cars. Things will break, wear out, and stop working, it's just the nature of old cars.

Before paying that kind of money for it, you really want someone who's familiar with Corvettes and especially unrestored ones, inspect it for you.

Rescue Rogers

That survivor is sounding more and more like my $19k nom 68. I would like to see the engine stamp as well

Jeff_Keryk

I think this is a very nice car. I guess you have to ask your self, what do you want? It is not totally original, but what vintage car is? The asking price gets you into big block territory. I do not consider these cars investments. Sure ain't my experience... Do it for the love of the cars. The best advice I ever got is:
1) Is this the car you want? (Otherwise you will be disappointed).
2) Buy the best car you can, you will be big-bucks ahead.

Majestic_C7

You guys are so amazing! Thank-you so much for taking the time to share your expertise and help me out with this decision. I can't believe how much you were able to pick up from just the photos. Based on that feedback, I'm going to pass on this one. I was super close to buying it, so your help made all the difference. Thanks!!

LT1M21Vette

Yup, don't buy a Corvette as an investment, buy the S&P Index or something else, but not a car.

Buy a Corvette because you want one, you want to drive it and are willing to throw money at it.

Rally68

Listed my red 1968 convertible in the For Sale/Wanted yesterday for $23k.

unfortunately I'm a long way from you