Crazy 350 engine ID number??
08-13-2016, 01:20 PM
#1
Crazy 350 engine ID number??
79 vette. Trying to decode this number but not making sense.
T4FY22651. I'm sure this is not original but I can't figure what this motor is out of.
Thanks
T4FY22651. I'm sure this is not original but I can't figure what this motor is out of.
Thanks
08-13-2016, 08:13 PM
#2
08-13-2016, 08:17 PM
#3
Drifting
A pic of the number and it's location would be helpful. A casting number would be of some help too. You should be able to find the partial vin and engine ID number on a pad located in front of the passenger side head.
08-14-2016, 06:38 AM
#4
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Are you sure tha 4 is in the correct spot. I can find TFY but the 4 is throwing me off.
08-14-2016, 07:20 AM
#5
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St. Jude Donor '10
If it is TFY and not TF4Y then you probably have:
This site has lots of good data and should be able to help you.
http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php
Good luck with it, always fun to solve a mystery.
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
This site has lots of good data and should be able to help you.
http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php
Good luck with it, always fun to solve a mystery.
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
08-14-2016, 08:54 AM
#6
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Take another look at the number. If it is supposed to be an engine ID stamp, the format is incomplete as posted and appears to contain a consecutive unit number. It is also not a VIN derivative. A pic would help.
08-14-2016, 10:33 AM
#7
Should some of this number be in the VIN #.
08-14-2016, 07:16 PM
#8
Should some of this number be in the VIN #.
08-15-2016, 09:09 AM
#10
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There should be two stampings on the pad. The first is the engine ID stamp. The second should be a VIN derivative of the car the engine was originally installed in. The two should not overlap each other, but stranger things have happened.
TFY could be part of the engine ID stamp, but you are missing other characters. 422651 could be a consecutive unit number from a VIN derivative, but, again, you're missing characters.
TFY could be part of the engine ID stamp, but you are missing other characters. 422651 could be a consecutive unit number from a VIN derivative, but, again, you're missing characters.
Last edited by Easy Mike; 08-15-2016 at 09:10 AM.
08-15-2016, 03:32 PM
#11
There should be two stampings on the pad. The first is the engine ID stamp. The second should be a VIN derivative of the car the engine was originally installed in. The two should not overlap each other, but stranger things have happened.
TFY could be part of the engine ID stamp, but you are missing other characters. 422651 could be a consecutive unit number from a VIN derivative, but, again, you're missing characters.
TFY could be part of the engine ID stamp, but you are missing other characters. 422651 could be a consecutive unit number from a VIN derivative, but, again, you're missing characters.
08-15-2016, 05:21 PM
#13
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St. Jude Donor '10
Time for some investigative work.
Lets get the engine casting number and manufacturing date, start building information from that.
You can find that data here:
We will figure this out, we always do.
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
Lets get the engine casting number and manufacturing date, start building information from that.
You can find that data here:
We will figure this out, we always do.
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
Last edited by AllC34Me; 08-15-2016 at 05:22 PM.
08-15-2016, 05:40 PM
#15
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Hi M,
The surface of the pad (the circular groves) are an indication that the block has been 'decked' since it was originally built at an engine plant.
This has apparently/likely removed the original stamp that was put on the pad when the engine was assembled.
The information on the pad now MAY be something stamped by the 'rebuilder'.
Does any of the sequence correspond to part of your car's VIN? Evebn a couple of digits?
Regards,
Alan
Added: Hi s, you posted while I was rounding up the picture!
Here's a more typical sb pad with the Engine Plant stamp identifying the engine, (black), and the St.Louis Plant stamp identifying what car it went into (white)..
The surface of the pad (the circular groves) are an indication that the block has been 'decked' since it was originally built at an engine plant.
This has apparently/likely removed the original stamp that was put on the pad when the engine was assembled.
The information on the pad now MAY be something stamped by the 'rebuilder'.
Does any of the sequence correspond to part of your car's VIN? Evebn a couple of digits?
Regards,
Alan
Added: Hi s, you posted while I was rounding up the picture!
Here's a more typical sb pad with the Engine Plant stamp identifying the engine, (black), and the St.Louis Plant stamp identifying what car it went into (white)..
Last edited by Alan 71; 08-15-2016 at 05:42 PM.
08-15-2016, 05:55 PM
#16
Hi M,
The surface of the pad (the circular groves) are an indication that the block has been 'decked' since it was originally built at an engine plant.
This has apparently/likely removed the original stamp that was put on the pad when the engine was assembled.
The information on the pad now MAY be something stamped by the 'rebuilder'.
Does any of the sequence correspond to part of your car's VIN? Evebn a couple of digits?
Regards,
Alan
Added: Hi s, you posted while I was rounding up the picture!
Here's a more typical sb pad with the Engine Plant stamp identifying the engine, (black), and the St.Louis Plant stamp identifying what car it went into (white)..
The surface of the pad (the circular groves) are an indication that the block has been 'decked' since it was originally built at an engine plant.
This has apparently/likely removed the original stamp that was put on the pad when the engine was assembled.
The information on the pad now MAY be something stamped by the 'rebuilder'.
Does any of the sequence correspond to part of your car's VIN? Evebn a couple of digits?
Regards,
Alan
Added: Hi s, you posted while I was rounding up the picture!
Here's a more typical sb pad with the Engine Plant stamp identifying the engine, (black), and the St.Louis Plant stamp identifying what car it went into (white)..
08-15-2016, 05:59 PM
#17
casting number shows 69 to 79 350 so I guess it is at least period correct. Guess it's been decked. Just wish I knew the horsepower but I'm guessing probably around the 195. Not that mean at all. Just good cruiser. Was just wanting more power (maybe crate engine) but didn't want to do that if this was original but I guess we can see it is not. If original was thinking of a rebuild.
08-15-2016, 06:34 PM
#18
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Hi m,
The 'Casting Clock' on the rear flange of the block has 2 pieces of info.
First to the right is the 'Shift' indicator… D, T, N. I believe T represents the twi-light shift.
To the left is a 'clock' that indicates what hour of the indicated shift the block was cast, not what time of the day it was.
Regards,
Alan
This info isn't really of much use today.
This block happens to have been cast late on the second, (twilight), shift of December 31 (L31). So the foundry was working, and the block was cast on New Year's Eve 1970.
The 'Casting Clock' on the rear flange of the block has 2 pieces of info.
First to the right is the 'Shift' indicator… D, T, N. I believe T represents the twi-light shift.
To the left is a 'clock' that indicates what hour of the indicated shift the block was cast, not what time of the day it was.
Regards,
Alan
This info isn't really of much use today.
This block happens to have been cast late on the second, (twilight), shift of December 31 (L31). So the foundry was working, and the block was cast on New Year's Eve 1970.
08-15-2016, 06:49 PM
#19
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St. Jude Donor '10
Lets make the assumption it has been decked then, okay, some work has been done on the engine. If now you might want to lift the valve covers and see what heads are on it, then remove the intake and see if it has been bored. Like I said, you are now entering the element of research and discovery. Once you have it apart you can make your decisions about rebuilding it or replacing it with a crate engine. With a nice cam; some aluminum heads, an aluminum intake, you can start to pick up some nice HP on the engine that you have. Great winter project for sure. My mild mannered Sparty 1971 picked up some new heads, a new mild loping cam, new intake and new carb (all originals are here, just not on the engine) and now it is far more spirited than its original 270 HP. You can easily get 300 HP out of that engine you have, why not have some fun with it?
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
08-15-2016, 07:30 PM
#20
Lets make the assumption it has been decked then, okay, some work has been done on the engine. If now you might want to lift the valve covers and see what heads are on it, then remove the intake and see if it has been bored. Like I said, you are now entering the element of research and discovery. Once you have it apart you can make your decisions about rebuilding it or replacing it with a crate engine. With a nice cam; some aluminum heads, an aluminum intake, you can start to pick up some nice HP on the engine that you have. Great winter project for sure. My mild mannered Sparty 1971 picked up some new heads, a new mild loping cam, new intake and new carb (all originals are here, just not on the engine) and now it is far more spirited than its original 270 HP. You can easily get 300 HP out of that engine you have, why not have some fun with it?
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me
Best regards,
David Howard
AllC34Me