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I have a 1968 427 4speed that when the engine was rebuilt, the machining of the block erased the VIN # off of it. Is there any way of telling if the car is truly a big block car other then matching the VIN on the block? Thanks.
Hi 1,
"Truly"…. probably not.
Any chance the build sheet is still on the gas tank?
Some of the hints that indicate a car MAY have been a bb car are:
Tach redline
Radiator configuration
Front sway bar size
Presence of a rear sway bar
Type of u-joint retainer on half-shafts at the differential (straps on sb cars and caps/bolts on bb cars)
And….?
Does the casting number of the block and it's casting date indicate that it COULD have been installed in a car with your car's build date?
Did you buy it as a bb car? (Pay the bb 'tariff'?)
Regards,
Alan
Hi 1,
"Truly"…. probably not.
Any chance the build sheet is still on the gas tank?
Some of the hints that indicate a car MAY have been a bb car are:
Tach redline
Radiator configuration
Front sway bar size
Presence of a rear sway bar
Type of u-joint retainer on half-shafts at the differential (straps on sb cars and caps/bolts on bb cars)
And….?
Does the casting number of the block and it's casting date indicate that it COULD have been installed in a car with your car's build date?
Did you buy it as a bb car? (Pay the bb 'tariff'?)
Regards,
Alan
The casting # does say it is from a 1968.
How do I find the build sheet on the gas tank. Is it possible to get to without tearing the car apart?
Nope! There are many items that you can show are 'proper' for your specific car/engine. But, without a 'good' engine stamp you will never be able to PROVE the engine is original. And, probably more important, a buyer would never be able to get any premium price for having the "real thing"....even if it was.
Sorry, but allowing the pad stamp to be machined off will cost you a chunk if you try to sell it as the 'real deal'.
Hi R,
I've heard discussions about 'raising' the 'information' on stamps pads with the methods described in the post you linked to.
My feeling is that the #15 poster seems to have an unusually high success rate!
Regards,
Alan
Hi 1,
The gas tank needs to be dropped to have access to the tank sheet.
However, it's worth the effort to first try to see if it's even there.
You MAY have some success by looking through the gas cap door's opening in the rear deck. Compress the rubber drain boot down against the tank with your fingers and use a small flash light to look right and left to see if there's any sign of the sheet. IF you see it don't try to do anything to read it or remove it. The sheets are VERY fragile and the tank REALLY needs to be dropped to do anything to it.
Back to your engine…have you looked at the casting date on the block? That's another step in deciding if this block could have started it's life in this car.
You can also check the casting and part numbers on various other engine components to see if THEY are appropriate for this engine and this car. Things like heads, exhaust manifold, intake, starter, etc..
So there may still be some good news even though the stamp pad has been decked.
Regards,
Alan
No need to drop the tank. Remove your gas lid bezel, then the rubber doughnut around the filler neck, look at the top of the tank. Hopefully you will see something like this. If you do then it is worth the effort of dropping the tank.
Originally Posted by 1jrgs68
The casting # does say it is from a 1968.
How do I find the build sheet on the gas tank. Is it possible to get to without tearing the car apart?
Even if you have the spec sheet on the tank and it specifies the engine you believe is original... How do you PROVE that the engine in your car is the one that came from the factory?
YOU know it is the same engine; but others do not and potential buyers will have a hard time parting with premium funds with only your testament. I wish that were not the case, but the value of these things is predicated on the VIN, block stamp, frame stamp and trans stamp.
Verification
