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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #21  
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Had the same problem when I bought my 78. Put 91 octane in it, and it would die. Corvette shop scolded me for using 91. These engines were made to run on 85 octane. I've been putting 85 in it ever since, and she runs great.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 10:01 AM
  #22  
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I agree with leadfoot; the Q-Jet appears to be original, perhaps never off the car. That's a big plus. No offense, but please consider getting your car road worthy before driving. Start with your carb and a good tune. You will be much happier if she starts, idles and runs properly. And you gotta do it anyway, so why not do it now? Just my 2 cents...
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 10:08 AM
  #23  
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That carb wants to be rebuilt. With the varnish look on the outside, the inside is probably as bad. If you can build a model, you can rebuild a carb. And buy a carb cleaning dunk can. https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-CC3K-Car.../dp/B000ABGA4E.


http://quadrajetparts.com/quadrajet-...-c-128_33.html
Your local parts store should have it and they might have the carb rebuild kit. Now a days you might have to order the kit. If you leak gas all over the place and have a fire, you might loose more than your car.

With the accelerator pump leaking like that, most likely it has other problems with the floats and gaskets. Better to fix now and drive later than drive now and burn later. One backfire and its done

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Oct 1, 2016 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 10:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
That's good, BUT you didn't answer the question. WHERE is the fuel "leaking" from? My guess, since it's an older car, is that the float in the fuel bowl is either damaged, causing fuel to get inside of it, so it doesn't "float" and shut off the fuel flow, causing fuel to "spill over", choking out the engine. Or, the float might simply be sticking, due to the inside of the fuel bowl being gummed up, again, causing the float to not work properly.

Again, however, WHERE are you seeing the "leakage"?
^^I agree^^
The carb gets blamed for a lot of drivability issues (not all warranted), but in this case, it would appear to be the culprit. That carb needs attention.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #25  
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My '67 Mustang's Holley 4160 secondary bowl float sticks down almost every every time we start it up, it'll start flooding the engine and kills it within a few seconds if you don't keep the rpms up, you can see the fuel dumping out of the air bleeds and some gaskets, sounds like what yours is doing. I just tap the bowl with a hammer and it promptly un sticks, and runs fine. So I agree with the fellas, you need to rebuild your q jet, looks like it hasn't been touched in decades.

Last edited by Tubbafatt; Oct 1, 2016 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cdavis03
Haha, thanks for the help! Do you think if I replace the seal and stop the leaking gas that itd be ok to drive for a few days?
What part of rebuild the carb. are you having trouble understanding. Rebuild the carb.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:31 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kenba
What part of rebuild the carb. are you having trouble understanding. Rebuild the carb.
I'll be rebuilding it haha, my uncle has a carb I can use and i'll rebuild the carb and give her new plug wires and cap/rotor in the next few days.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #28  
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That carb needs to be taken off immediately and rebuilt or replaced. What a mess. It looks like you took pictures of a carb in a junkyard.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 09:29 PM
  #29  
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Fixed the problem, the gasket under the carb was broke and thats where the gas was coming from. I replaced that and clean the carb for now and plan on having it rebuilt by a friend in a week or so.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 09:30 PM
  #30  
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Don't wait to long, we want to keep you around
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 10:32 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Don't wait to long, we want to keep you around
Yea, I put a fire extinguisher in her and I wont be driving it unless necessary, everything seems to be pretty good though as of now
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 03:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bj1k
From the looks of that carb I wouldn't even try to start that car again before you get a complete rebuild on the carb by someone that knows these carbs . Do it before you have a fire and lose the car .
cdavis..I agree..DO not start or run your '78 UNTIL you get that old Rochester QJet PROPERLY rebuilt.. GO with a upgraded brass float while you are at it..DO not just hose it down with carb cleaner..That carb needs som experienced attention.. Not easy to find anyone locally who truly understands how to properly overhaul-rebuild-adjust-tune the old Q Jet Rochester..but they ARE out there..YOU'VE put a bit of time and effort into that '78 thus far..Don't burn it up..or shortcut what is needing done..Your friend in Oregon, Jim
PS make a note on the original carburator number on yours..Important to get the correct rebuild kit..or replacement carb..Even a like new replacement is gonna need to be properly tuned..timing maybe adjusted, fuel lines vac lines renewed-checked..NOT a job for a novice with a wrench..
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 06:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by cdavis03
Fixed the problem, the gasket under the carb was broke and thats where the gas was coming from. I replaced that and clean the carb for now and plan on having it rebuilt by a friend in a week or so.
Just for the record, "the gasket under the carb" is NOT a seal for fuel flow. That gasket seals the carb to the manifold, keeping outside air from entering the engine in an unmetered fashion. Any fuel that's in that area of the engine is in an atomized state, when the engine is running, as well as under vacuum, therefore it WON'T be leaking out on to the manifold.

If you have liquid fuel coming from there, when the engine is off, you have some sort of internal leak in the carb itself.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 06:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Just for the record, "the gasket under the carb" is NOT a seal for fuel flow. That gasket seals the carb to the manifold, keeping outside air from entering the engine in an unmetered fashion. Any fuel that's in that area of the engine is in an atomized state, when the engine is running, as well as under vacuum, therefore it WON'T be leaking out on to the manifold.

If you have liquid fuel coming from there, when the engine is off, you have some sort of internal leak in the carb itself.
I meant to say air was being sucked in there any pushing gas out, my bad.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 06:20 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jim in oregon
cdavis..I agree..DO not start or run your '78 UNTIL you get that old Rochester QJet PROPERLY rebuilt.. GO with a upgraded brass float while you are at it..DO not just hose it down with carb cleaner..That carb needs som experienced attention.. Not easy to find anyone locally who truly understands how to properly overhaul-rebuild-adjust-tune the old Q Jet Rochester..but they ARE out there..YOU'VE put a bit of time and effort into that '78 thus far..Don't burn it up..or shortcut what is needing done..Your friend in Oregon, Jim
PS make a note on the original carburator number on yours..Important to get the correct rebuild kit..or replacement carb..Even a like new replacement is gonna need to be properly tuned..timing maybe adjusted, fuel lines vac lines renewed-checked..NOT a job for a novice with a wrench..
Took her apart and cleaned everything up and my uncle replaced a bunch of stuff on it with the other almost new carb he had and it runs perfect now, still having it rebuilt in the next few days but I have to run it for now until my Trailblazer gets registered.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 06:52 PM
  #36  
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That's a beautiful, original carb, unmolested carb in rebuildable condition. My advise is as follows:
  1. The carb needs a rebuild. It has a bad float which is causing the fuel seepage problems - the fuel leak has nothing to do with your base gasket.
  2. Do not trade it in/exchange it for a "rebuilt" carb.
  3. Have someone competent go through the carb and set it up for you.
  4. I can count on one hand the number of competent carb builders.
  5. Your uncle and friends are probably not on the list...

Originally Posted by cdavis03
I meant to say air was being sucked in there any pushing gas out, my bad.
No that's not possible. Air being sucked in will not push gas out. You have fuel seeping out of the main discharge nozzles due to a sunk float or high float level, and this fuel is dripping down onto the throttle shafts and the base gasket, causing the fuel to wick out the base gasket.
Lars

Last edited by lars; Oct 2, 2016 at 06:56 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 07:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by lars
That's a beautiful, original carb, unmolested carb in rebuildable condition. My advise is as follows:
  1. The carb needs a rebuild. It has a bad float which is causing the fuel seepage problems - the fuel leak has nothing to do with your base gasket.
  2. Do not trade it in/exchange it for a "rebuilt" carb.
  3. Have someone competent go through the carb and set it up for you.
  4. I can count on one hand the number of competent carb builders.
  5. Your uncle and friends are probably not on the list...
Dammit Lars, what's it going to take to get you to come out of Carb rebuilding retirement! The world needs you. You are the Batman of the classic auto industry.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 07:11 PM
  #38  
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As you can see I dont really know what i'm talking about lol, still learning haha
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 11:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Scottd
Dammit Lars, what's it going to take to get you to come out of Carb rebuilding retirement! The world needs you. You are the Batman of the classic auto industry.
I'm building a few carbs again and doing some distributor setups.
Lars
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 07:50 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by cdavis03
As you can see I dont really know what i'm talking about lol, still learning haha
Pay close attention to post #39!!
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