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Installing new parts

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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 11:49 PM
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Default Installing new parts

I am putting my frame - ta's, fuel - brake lines back on.

Questions.

With my suspension, I have polly, I read ones that I should but a some sort of lube on it. True?

Brake lines - When screwing them into the blocks, do I do anything special.

Ta's

I have the older shims and marked what went where. I bought SS shims. What is the best was to install, as in should I use older sizes or do something new.
I understand later on I will need to adjust them again for wheel aliment.

Also, with the diff x member where the mounts join the frame, that was powder coated, should I bare metal that bit or just leave it.

thanks for help .

More to come later

Last edited by Dirk76; Oct 8, 2016 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 10:55 AM
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Lube poly bushings liberally with a synthetic grease. 'Super Lube' is a common one that works well.

Replace the old TA shims with new stainless shims of the same thickness. Get an alignment when you can.
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirk76
...

Brake lines - When screwing them into the blocks, do I do anything special.

...

Also, with the diff x member where the mounts join the frame, that was powder coated, should I bare metal that bit or just leave it.

thanks for help .

...
My suggestion for brake line distribution blocks is snug dry but don't over-tighten.

Regarding the powder-coated cover, unless the coating is super thick and dried wavy, I'd leave as is and bolt it up to correct torque spec.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 01:48 AM
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I forgot to add that the ta's are brand offset new ones. So should I still use the old settings of shims?
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 07:06 AM
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Hi Dirk,
Generally when you not sure of the original number of shims used at the trailing arm bolt, or the trailing arm has been changed, it's a good idea the fill the available remaining space with an equal amount of shims on each side of the arm.
Remember to include a number of the thinner shims on each side so that the person doing the alignment with have a variety of shim thicknesses to work with.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; Oct 12, 2016 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 05:09 PM
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stainless brake lines or steel, stainless need extra strength put on them to get them tight, steel don't need as pressure put on them, just good and snugly tight.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 01:50 AM
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Nearly complete on the rear.

Only got the strut rods to connect under the diff.

I have the ones from this...

https://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/c2...77-detail.html

Should I use the bolt with the square plates on it, so it looks like this

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1979.html

or should I use the circle bolt that also comes with it.

Also, what is a quick setup on screw length. Just something sort term. My body is not on the car yet.

Last edited by Dirk76; Jan 6, 2017 at 03:37 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 03:38 AM
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bump. See post above
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 05:31 PM
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I add zerks to all my poly A arm bushings and use synthetic grease cause eventually they are gonna squeak.
Oh and if you do that you have to carve channels and small holes in the bushing for proper distribution.
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 10:12 PM
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Those will use the square plates on the ends under the diff.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lvmyvt76
stainless brake lines or steel, stainless need extra strength put on them to get them tight, steel don't need as pressure put on them, just good and snugly tight.
That is the reason that I don't like to use stainless steel lines on a classic car that gets limited use anyway. You won't need it . Stainless is good for everyday drivers and trucks . I used the stainless lines that the PO had bought and I received with my 72 project and had a couple joints that were a bit difficult to get tight enough to stop leaks. Stainless is a harder steel and takes more to compress the flares.
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