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I am putting my frame - ta's, fuel - brake lines back on.
Questions.
With my suspension, I have polly, I read ones that I should but a some sort of lube on it. True?
Brake lines - When screwing them into the blocks, do I do anything special.
Ta's
I have the older shims and marked what went where. I bought SS shims. What is the best was to install, as in should I use older sizes or do something new.
I understand later on I will need to adjust them again for wheel aliment.
Also, with the diff x member where the mounts join the frame, that was powder coated, should I bare metal that bit or just leave it.
Lube poly bushings liberally with a synthetic grease. 'Super Lube' is a common one that works well.
Replace the old TA shims with new stainless shims of the same thickness. Get an alignment when you can.
Hi Dirk,
Generally when you not sure of the original number of shims used at the trailing arm bolt, or the trailing arm has been changed, it's a good idea the fill the available remaining space with an equal amount of shims on each side of the arm.
Remember to include a number of the thinner shims on each side so that the person doing the alignment with have a variety of shim thicknesses to work with.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
stainless brake lines or steel, stainless need extra strength put on them to get them tight, steel don't need as pressure put on them, just good and snugly tight.
I add zerks to all my poly A arm bushings and use synthetic grease cause eventually they are gonna squeak.
Oh and if you do that you have to carve channels and small holes in the bushing for proper distribution.
stainless brake lines or steel, stainless need extra strength put on them to get them tight, steel don't need as pressure put on them, just good and snugly tight.
That is the reason that I don't like to use stainless steel lines on a classic car that gets limited use anyway. You won't need it . Stainless is good for everyday drivers and trucks . I used the stainless lines that the PO had bought and I received with my 72 project and had a couple joints that were a bit difficult to get tight enough to stop leaks. Stainless is a harder steel and takes more to compress the flares.