New HEI Distributor Question
Got a new 65kV HEI Distributor coming on the big green truck for my 1969 350 small block.
I recently installed a new 65A Alternator, as it crapped out on me driving the car home for the first time.
Can anyone tell me if the higher energy Distributor will require a higher amperage Alternator?
Also, it doesn't appear that the prior owner fully removed and/or disconnected the external Voltage Regulator when he installed the prior Alternator, which was also a modern internal VR model. I've seen kits that can bypass the external VR when you update your Alternator, but I don't see any of that, and it's difficult to trace the wiring from the external VR, since it all goes into existing wire bundles.
Is there a problem with double voltage regulators in-line?
Thanks,
If I am doing electrical modifications or improvements to a Corvette. I see what these new components require for amps and then decide if I need to increase the alternator or not.
AS for double voltage regulators...I have never had a car with this issue due to I generally take out what is not needed and re-wire it how I need it to be.
DUB




Got a new 65kV HEI Distributor coming on the big green truck for my 1969 350 small block.
I recently installed a new 65A Alternator, as it crapped out on me driving the car home for the first time.
Can anyone tell me if the higher energy Distributor will require a higher amperage Alternator?
Also, it doesn't appear that the prior owner fully removed and/or disconnected the external Voltage Regulator when he installed the prior Alternator, which was also a modern internal VR model. I've seen kits that can bypass the external VR when you update your Alternator, but I don't see any of that, and it's difficult to trace the wiring from the external VR, since it all goes into existing wire bundles.
Is there a problem with double voltage regulators in-line?
Thanks,
The 65kV rating is for the insulation capability of the coil package. It has nothing to do with any of the electrical capabilities of the electronics (coil primary current, charge/dwell time, energy delivered to the plugs, or plug arc voltage).
The external regulator issue has me puzzled. It's my understanding that '69 was the first year for the integrated voltage regulator (forum members, please correct me if I'm wrong). No disrespect intended, but is the "second voltage regulator" you're seeing perhaps the horn relay on the left side inner fender?
Hi 69427.
No disrespect taken at all! I'm here to learn.
The module that I believe to be the external VR, could very well be something else. I don't recall that there are leads going directly from the Alt to this module, as the wires are all coming in/out of the surrounding wire harness bundles. I don't have a picture of it handy, but will look further over the weekend.
EDIT - I found a picture that captures the suspected VR module. What is this puppy?
Also - I plan on replacing the wires with HEI-friendly 8+mm Moroso's, but curious about the spark plugs, and what type I should be upgrading to, since I'm bringing the entire ignition system into the 1970s (at least!).
Last edited by Bergerboy; Oct 14, 2016 at 01:38 PM.




The current part number spark plugs will be fine. Next time you change them you could open the gap from the current .035 to .045. Spark plugs are graded by heat range not capacity or anything else.
Last edited by TimAT; Oct 14, 2016 at 04:46 PM.
AND...not meaning to 'step on your toes'...but you would be amazed on how many times the spark plugs I pull out and check...the gap is incorrect.
Remember...electricity travels to the path of least resistance....so if your plugs are set at .035". And when you look at the flat surface at the end of the electrode...and then the bent metal pawl going over it where you set the gap. You want to make sure the metal pawl is level and parallel to the end of the electrode. If it is angled...then your spark cone will be small due to the spark is going to the point where it is closest to the electrode. SO...if the metal pawl is flat and even with the electrode...your spark cone and be larger....so-to-speak.
So...just gong in and bending the metal pawl up to get a .045" gap is not want you want to do if when you look at the metal pawl is now angled.
DUB









