Looking at having my 71 350 engine rebuilt. I have done everything on the car myself so far but have never pulled an engine. It is a 4 speed.

How difficult is it to pull the engine?
Where do I disconnect from the trans since it has already been rebuilt. Just want to pull the engine.
Any advice on renting the engine puller.

Thanks. I appreciate all the help.

 

Usually pull engines mated to manual trans as a unit, as its easier to reattach everything outside of the car. Because the distance from the middle of the bumper to the centerline of the carb mounting pad is longer than a typical car, make sure that whatever being rented has the correct reach.

There are those that will say it is not necessary to remove the radiator support, but it does not hurt if the fasteners are removed from the inter fenders to change the angle to more upright position.

 

It's a pretty simple job, I did remove the radiator and support first to make things easier.
As referenced above, the engine and manual transmission can come out as one unit. The only thing that needs to be done is to jack up the rear of the car so you'll have enough room for the angle the engine/trans hang at to be pulled out and over the fenders.

 

Question: Wouldn't it be easier to disconnect the engine from the transmission and then pull just the engine.

Question: When you send the engine in to the rebuilder what do ou leave on the engine besides the AIR system, exhaust manifolds, and starter?

 

No.

It depends on if the engine builder will be running your completed engine on a dyno for break-in or not. You should ask the builder what he wants included.
A simple non-dyno run rebuild would only need the block, heads, intake manifold.

 

I disconnected the trans at the bellhousing. I completely removed the core support, gives you lots of extra room to clear the input shaft. Be sure to support the front of the trans if you do leave it in place.

 

I disconnect the tranny. There's pro's and con's on how to remove the engine. I also remove the rad and hood but leave the rad support as is. With a 2-ton hoist, the engine can be removed from the side of the vehicle. I choose the passenger side.

 

There is no need to pull the transmission . Just block up the transmission and disconnect it at the bell housing and pull the engine forward. It saves the trouble of removing the shifter mechanism which can be a PITA . Do drain the radiator and remove it and remove the engine mounts to let the engine slide forward without raising too much and damaging the distributor . You can remove the distributor cap to prevent damage. I removed my engine last winter and installed it this way and it is very simple. Been doing it this way for over fifty years unless there is a reason to remove the transmission for repairs.

 

I too would avoid removing the trans as reinstalling the trans linkage is indeed a royal PITA. On an A/C car (I have a 69) removing the radiator and shroud is as much of a PITA. Removing the upper control arms helps in that regard. The next time I remove my engine my goal will be to not to touch either. Let us know how you make out with an update.

 

This.

 

The motor is a solid lifter motor so it will have to be broken in and it will be dynoed. Do you need to leave anything on the motor beside the starter, AIR system, exhaust manifolds, distributor, and carb?

 

If you choose to "send it out" to a rebuilder, plan on getting raped on the bill. Period. That is how guys end up with $50k in a $25k car. Do it yourself and have fun learning.

 

Have you bothered to ask the builder what he wants?

Why are you including the exhaust manifolds and AIR system? I would think that most experienced builders would bolt a set of shop headers on the engine to dyno it, my builder also had a shop starter to use.

I had my engine dynoed before and after rebuild. All they needed was the carb, distib, intake manifold, heads, block, water pump.

 

Something I didn't see mentioned here that you should be aware of is that, as the engine is removed, the front-end will move up on the springs. This will considerably reduce your clearance. Make sure you have some additional travel in your lift beyond what seems adequate with the motor in. This is especially true if you pull the transmission with the motor. And on that point, make sure you've either drained the transmission or retained the rear yoke to avoid fluid dripping over everything.

Personally I feel that pulling the entire assembly eliminates a lot of under the car finagling to get everything hooked back up.

I've done this a number of times single-handedly but as a first timer you really want some buddies standing by.

 

I'm going to bring up a safety point from looking at your picture. If you are using the ramps as a way to raise the rear of the car to have room to work it is a bad idea unless you have a way to absolutely keep the car from rolling. When you start working on the pulling of the engine you will be jerking on the car and it don't take much to make it roll off the ramps. Just looking out for your safety. Larry

 

When this pic was taken the engine was out, the ramps were used to keep the car level to begin the removal process (jack stands in the front), once the engine was clear and hanging and no one needed to be under the car, a jack was used to raise the rear to get the last couple inches of clearance needed.

 

I am looking at 2 builders right now. One is american speed in Moline,Il and he estimated the cost to rebuild the engine at around $3K. I would load the motor in my truck and deliver it to him--only a couple of hrs away. The other builder I won't mention at this point because he has not agreed to do it but he is very well known. I would have to ship the motor to him since he is out of state.

The reviews on American speed are very good and he said he has done over 500 engines of this type.

 

OK - I'll open the can of worms - the cost to rebuild an engine can vary WILDLY depending on what machine work is done and what parts are used. Clevite bearings cost twice the aluminum ones, forged pistons are maybe 4 times the cost of cast. Stainless valves or 2 pc carbon steel? New springs retainers locks or reuse the old? Will they bore or just hone? $3K is a deal if you get the FULL machine package, balanced to 1/10th gram, new forged pistons, cc'd heads etc. but a lousy deal for a re ring & slap it back together. Personally I would get a written list of all machine work included and all parts to be used before you start.

 

By removing the shifter control rods at the trans end and disconnecting the prop shaft, you will be able to slide the trans back a few inches. The shifter does not need to be removed to accomplish this. This will give extra clearance between the input shaft and bellhouse. Plus, when the engine is installed, the trans will be loose and can be "wiggled" into the clutch and pilot bearing. In order to disconnect the prop shaft, the rear wheels have to be free to rotate and bring the U joint into position to access the bolts. Use heavy pads to protect the fenders! Good luck!

 

W... You started the thread with questions about pulling the motor, not to start a debate on builders and what they might do - I won't go there.

I pulled the engine and trans in my '70 L46 coupe yesterday. The prep takes longer than the actual removal. I pulled the entire eng & trans as a unit as it has never been out of the car, original clutch slipping, I am rebuilding for pump gas + HP, and I need a once-over cleaning on everything. Everyone has their method; don't rush. Here's what I did:

-removed battery
-removed hood with a helper
-removed fan & radiator - drain it obviously
-drain the oil pan & filter, spin the empty filter back on
-pulled PS pump off motor / tied aside
-removed alternator & belts
-disconnected & pulled starter (leave on if you want)
-soaked & unbolted exhaust at manifold flange
-remove motor mount nuts & slide bolts out
-detach clutch pedal under hood / remove bell crank
-I pull the distributor & plug wires
-detach any other wires for temp/tube for oil pressure
-BREAK the oil pressure tube, so you have to replace later
-remove carb & throttle linkage
-remove fuel pump / detach lines / cap lines at the frame
-pull main driveshaft (unbolt u-bolts at rear AND front)
-leave the yolk in the transmission
-MARK your front & rear yolks & a spot on the shaft w/white-out
-Tape around the u-joints/caps to save them (mine are new)
-pull the 4 center bolts on your trans crossmember
-remove the two exhaust clamps / either side of crossmember
-detach the reverse switch and all three shift rods (easy)
-on PS of tail shaft, unscrew the speedo cable
-support the rear shaft with a floor jack to make sure it's loose
-my shifter is on it's own mount (not the trans), so left in car
-there is a ground strap to the block/starter on PS -- unbolt
-these steps are all from the BOTTOM of the car, so not fun
-I used a motor plate on the intake and single hook on picker
-with one assistant, jack up, work the motor forward, out of car
-near the end it will be tilted nose-up to get the tail out from under
-I left the radiator support in place (it JUST clears)
-I will use an engine tilter when I put it back in as a unit
-I pulled toward front of car, rolled car out from under motor
-At the end, we swung the motor over the driver side fender
-split the trans & clutch assembly off engine
-hang it on a stand, strip your plugs, accessories, intake, heads, damper, timing cover, etc. if you are pulling the motor apart.

-be prepared for a mess...
-have rags, brake cleaner and floor dry on hand...
-TAKE PHOTOS with your phone for later...
-MARK EVERYTHING with some masking tape & Sharpie
-Use Ziplock baggies & mark with a Sharpie for hardware

If you're sending the long block or hauling it out, in the past I built a simple cradle that worked well on a trailer or truck. You can use the cherry picker and set the engine upright in the cradle. Use the attachment from an engine stand at the rear of the block, leave the motor mounts on the engine, stand it upright, cut vertical 4x4's as legs under the motor mounts, use a 2x8 or something across the back, under the pipe on the engine mount plate, tie them all together with boards around the exterior. I have two in my garage and will post a photo if you want. Worked really well for travel to the dyno. Otherwise, buy a cradle or ask them for one.

Split the trans off as others have done if it makes sense to you. In my case the car is original and never been touched, years of grime on everything under there, plus I'll move the car around a bit during the rebuild, so best option was to pull it all. I don't know your situation. Good luck with your project!!