Nice one! Have fun! Are the rotors still riveted, or are you just thinking ahead?

 

Not sure if they're still riveted. I needed some decent drills anyway as I have Chinese ones. I basically couldn't let the deal go. I got a HSS set that's got about 50 different sized drills in it for $20, the set had some missing. For someone like me who doesn't do much drilling, it's all I need.

 

Hmmn , 20 bucks eh! hope its not the size(s) you need that are missing did you get metric or imperial ?

 

Its got both metric and imperial. There are a few odd ones here and there missing but I'm sure I'll have one to do the job. Hell my drill will probably kark itself before the drill bit does.

 

Ok guys finally got to check the rears for any rotor runout. I'll include a few pics for reference. LHS rear was way out, .015" at the highest point. RHS rear was only .005" at the highest point. I have been hearing the squeaking from the LHS also so clearly this needs some rectification. Feel free to add some advice on what is my next step to fix this problem. Looking at the photo's it doesn't look like there is any rivets in these rotors. I triple checked these to make sure they were correct.

LHS Rear



RHS Rear

 

Driverside rear on my 6t8 has .006 runout, just for giggles I removed the rotor and checked the axle, and it's the axle that is causing the runout. T

 

Unbolt the calipers, and swing them out of the way. I would clock the rotor 180* first, and re read it.
Get it best you can, then shim them to .001 or less.
Check the parking brake shoes while apart.

 

.005 or .006 isn't too bad I dont think but I think the specs is supposed to be under .003. I must remember to mark the stud which is the lowest point otherwise when I check the axle it will be difficult to match it up.

In regards to these rear rotors. I've heard they can be riveted on but these don't appear to be. The rotors appear to be just held on by the caliper. Does this appear to be correct? I intend to do what you suggest, turning the rotor 180* and recheck it. With any luck it might be ok. While the rotors off I might as well check the axle too.

Once I remove the caliper do I need to put anything in between the pads to ensure the caliper doesn't close, thus making it simple to put back on?

 

Just dont hit the brakes while they are hanging. Support them with tie wire, NOT the hose.
Check the date on the hose. 10 years old its done.

 

Cool

What about the rotors? Will they come straight off once the caliper is removed?

 

Yes. I should mention, the holes are for adjusting the parking brake star wheel. They have to line up, although you only need one hole.

 

No problem. So turning the rotor 180* will not any affect on the adjustment.

 

yes it will affect the run-out, it may get better ,or worse . try and see if your lucky !

Someone has put a replacement rotor on which doesn't have the rivet holes so apart from the caliper, which should be taken off and wired up out the way while doing the shimming ,it relies on your your wheel nuts/road wheel to hold the rotor on .

have you disconnected the half shafts ?

 

Go and pull it apart. Once you look at it, you'll see it's pretty simple.

 

Hi Bazza,

Is that common that the rotor is not bolted on at all?

 

I'll try and get into it tomorrow, it's midnight here. Hope the bolts in the caliper are nice to me

I might be able to just give the right hand side rotor a bit of a clean at the back and that might give me the couple of thou I need.

 

yes its common , I would say theres more c3 and c2 driving without the rivets than with.

 

Saves me a bit of work then. Wasn't looking forward to drilling rivets out. The fronts are more likely to be the same which will be good.

 

Probably so. The fronts typically wear faster than the rears.

 

A couple of things I'd like to mention, before you get to the work.

Definitely put a block of wood or similar in between the pads as you lift the calliper away. You don't want them to close, its a pain to get them back, plus you'll get air in the system etc etc. (I keep a correct sized block in the tool chest just for the job) Much easier just to block them and then drop them back on. As said, hang them by wire, you can hook them on the chassis.

Your rotors are replacements, so no rivets. The wheel holds them on when all is bolted back together. (They were only riveted for production ease and machined true with the spindle during production.) I'm guessing the fact that they are replacements is the reason they need some shimming.

The fronts are different again, the rotors are riveted to the bearing carrier and don't need to come off that unless being replaced. There should be no run-out if it's all original unless the spindle is bent! If they have been changed, that's a different matter!

There are plenty of people who'll say it's a "snap" to change parking-brake shoes with the spindle in place - it isn't! I'd say, don.t get into that unless you really need to!