Dial indicator for checking rotor runout





LHS Rear

RHS Rear

Once I remove the caliper do I need to put anything in between the pads to ensure the caliper doesn't close, thus making it simple to put back on?
Last edited by Corvetteoz; Jan 13, 2017 at 06:58 AM.
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In regards to these rear rotors. I've heard they can be riveted on but these don't appear to be. The rotors appear to be just held on by the caliper. Does this appear to be correct?Yes I intend to do what you suggest, turning the rotor 180* and recheck it. With any luck it might be ok. While the rotors off I might as well check the axle too.
Once I remove the caliper do I need to put anything in between the pads to ensure the caliper doesn't close, thus making it simple to put back on?No
Check the date on the hose. 10 years old its done.
Someone has put a replacement rotor on which doesn't have the rivet holes so apart from the caliper, which should be taken off and wired up out the way while doing the shimming ,it relies on your your wheel nuts/road wheel to hold the rotor on .
have you disconnected the half shafts ?
Last edited by bazza77; Jan 13, 2017 at 08:09 AM.
Go and pull it apart. Once you look at it, you'll see it's pretty simple.
Is that common that the rotor is not bolted on at all?

I might be able to just give the right hand side rotor a bit of a clean at the back and that might give me the couple of thou I need.





Definitely put a block of wood or similar in between the pads as you lift the calliper away. You don't want them to close, its a pain to get them back, plus you'll get air in the system etc etc. (I keep a correct sized block in the tool chest just for the job) Much easier just to block them and then drop them back on. As said, hang them by wire, you can hook them on the chassis.
Your rotors are replacements, so no rivets. The wheel holds them on when all is bolted back together. (They were only riveted for production ease and machined true with the spindle during production.) I'm guessing the fact that they are replacements is the reason they need some shimming.
The fronts are different again, the rotors are riveted to the bearing carrier and don't need to come off that unless being replaced. There should be no run-out if it's all original unless the spindle is bent! If they have been changed, that's a different matter!
There are plenty of people who'll say it's a "snap" to change parking-brake shoes with the spindle in place - it isn't!
I'd say, don.t get into that unless you really need to!
Last edited by Stephen Irons; Jan 13, 2017 at 01:21 PM.











